Check the website FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair to see how to get the unit to him. If I recall, there's a form to fill out which you put in the box. Decide if you want a FICM tune or not, but I will warn you. If you speak with Ed on the phone, you're going to wind up getting one. I spoke with him on the phone and ended up with the Economy tune. My truck runs SO nice now, great throttle response and fuel mileage.

I have also started an Archoil regiment which has been working very well for me as well. My truck is incredibly smooth, quiet, starts right up. It hasn't been very cold here yet, but so far I have had ZERO cold start issues so I'm happy!

Hope that the FICM takes care of all your issues, if not give Archoil a shot (or Rev-X) for the colder months, it might help you out.

 

For a second there, I thought you were going down the path of suggesting that I was long-winded (which I sorta and kinda am...).

So glad to hear that the hair drier trick worked!

 

Just had batts and alternator tested at AutoZone. Bstts are good, alt test said voltage regulator bad. What does that mean?

 

That means that it's time for a new alternator and that bad alternator likely took out your FICM. Bummer.

That said, we can hook you up with a DRAMATICALLY better alternative than OEM with the DC Alternator products. Give us a shout if interested - 515-897-4459.

Thanks!

Ed

 

Thanks, ed... We will be talking about that for sure!

 

Love it when a plan comes together!

 

Ok, so it'll be getting a new alternator and FICM with Atlas 40 tune from Ed... May get some new batteries, too, cause even though these checked out okay, they're the cheapest batteries Autozone sells and not exactly the best for this truck!

Here we go... time for another credit card!

 

By the way, here's the video of the start this morning... Any thoughts?

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/52163363?badge=0" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/52163363">MVI 5827</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user608539">David Beisner</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

 

Still think it is an injector. Will be interested to hear Ed's opinion.

 

Bismic, what all is involved in testing the injectors? I've run the only tests available for them on the SGII and they all came out okay... Is there a way I can test them myself? I don't want to pay big money to get them tested unless I have to.

 

The big problem that can cause more damage is if raw fuel is dumping into the cylinder. Probably the cheapest way to go is to not drive it until you get the batteries, alternator, and FICM resolved. Then if you still have the smoke after all that, then you might need to have a $150 test done at Ford (contribution test) - unless you know someone with an autoenginuity.

 

Shoot, that is not what I was hoping to hear, Mark. This is my ONLY vehicle. I also didn't get another piece of plastic afterall, which means I'm limited to about $250 to work with until the middle of November.

With all that in mind, what's the best order to go with on working through these problems? I'm 99% sure that alternator is brand new and was put in by the dealer who sold me the truck, so I'm trying to find out where they got it in hopes I can exchange it. It would still be the OEM, but at least it would be free and could get me a little farther before I have to do that.

From what Ed is saying, the FICM is bad because it started as soon as I heated it up. But I don't get why it wouldn't throw any codes or show bad voltages if it was bad?

I'll do whatever has to be done to fix this truck, but I just have to make sure I'm doing only what has to be done cause at this point it's coming down to winter clothes or fixing truck problems. Next year when I have some more money I can do the extras and upgrades and make it fancy... Right now, though, I just need to get it safe to drive without causing more damage.

Any and all advice is welcome. How much does the AE gauge cost? Would it be worth my while to get it myself?

 

Yeah, so AE ain't happening right now!

 

I agree that the FICM is bad. However, I would pull that EGR valve after driving it (let it cool a bit though). See if fuel is pooling under the valve.

The AE is $350 IIRC. Maybe some folks here can hook you up w/ someone that has one in your neck of the woods.

 

Ok, I can do that. I parked nose down tonight and will pull it in the morning before driving it to see if its wet. Then I'll pull it again after driving it and check again.

FWIW, I stopped by my dealer today and had an OASIS report pulled... Truck got updated STC fittings at 50,000 miles and replaced EGR and oil coolers and new EGR valve at 98,000 miles. Currently at 125,000. I know none of those have any bearing on this issue, but still really nice to see I'm only 30,000 miles into these coolers... I've got the diesel site coolant filter on the way. Wish now I had waited to order it, cause it would have been an extra $200 available for these electrical problems! I also still need to get my coolant and oil for full fluid changes, too, so need another $200 for all that! Already have my new oil filter and fuel filters...

Hey, anyone need an '03 oil cooler, intake gaskets, and turbo mount? I've got them all from my last truck which I didn't end up doing before trading it in.... That would give me a couple hundred extra bucks...