There is a check valve, but it's not to prevent this issue. Unless there is a check valve in the pump I don't know about to prevent this, which I highly doubt, there is nothing keeping water from siphoning. I'm going to try to make mine do this. If it does it, I will be ordering a solenoid valve from Mcmaster.. Should only be around $40 for a normally closed 3/8" solenoid valve.

 

Test drive went very good! I think I dodged the bullet on this on. I put some more cheap oil thru it and changed it back to Shaeffer's. Even changed the hpop, what a pain. My wife even said good job, I was speechless. All I could do is stare at her in stock! LOL She even bought some chocolate chip cookies and some ice creme! Its usually, "you working on that truck AGAIN?"

Travis, after my test run the water line was leaking even though I have the controller off. An hour after my test run I went outside and saw this, can you believe it?



I have the boost controller off and off with the key. I crawled under and looked at all the components and will look at them on their website to identify them. One looks like what you were talking about Travis, a solenoid that is electric and wire to the controller. The other is a inline cylinder that looks like a check valve. The pump wasn't running with the key off and the electric solenoid is wired into the same hot wire. I don't know what is going on?!

 

What the temps there? Does the water tank have a vent? If it does have a vent it could be stopped up and the heat is causing pressure to build in the tank and pushing the water through the system.

 

How bizarre! I think i will try to learn more about that system.there has to be a safety to make that reliable again.

Wouldnt that solenoid be normaly closed? Voltage would open it? Or am i wonky again from lack of sleep...

 

Yes, a progressive controller, the higher the boost, the more it sprays. The controller is not on unless you have the key on. When the key is on and you want the controller off, you turn the higher setting of boost down below the lower setting. I have it set to come on a 8psi and the upper setting at 14psi is where it sprays full force. The last day of the trip after getting home I noticed the tank was still full so I turned the upper number down below the 8psi so I knew it would be off all the time until I cleaned or replaced the nozzle (assumptiion on my part). The water line is just dripping now that I have it disconnected from the nozzle, the pump is not running. The motor being flooded out is proof that the nozzle wasn't clogged. So the last day of my trip I don't know why it wasn't spraying. The black tank in this picture is probably pretty even with the IC but the last picture is with the truck parked slighty up hill facing the house.





Mike, that's a good question. I'm assuming the cap would have to be vented and its been hot here. I'll have to take a look. Either the solenoid or check valve screwed up or you might be on to something with the cap.

 

Loosen the cap and see if it releases pressure

 

Shouldn't it be a normally closed solenoid?

Red

 

I haven't gone on there website yet but the thing I looked at I'm sure is a electric solenoid. It looks just like the one on my fuel tank that I use to open the valve for the pump to pump fuel into my front tank. If it fails then my front tank could be flooded out and a nice pool of diesel on the ground. I didn't think these solenoids could fail in the OPEN position??

Little one keeping you up?

 

Oh, Travis, about the check valve in the pump, that is one of the last questions I asked the guy at coolingmist and didn't get a answer.

 

Mike, there wasn't any pressure released. I'm assuming the vents on the inside of this cap means its vented. I'm not sure if there is a way of testing it?

 

The gas caps on my mover are like that and I can blow through them

 

I'd leave the cap loose and see if it does it again

 

I am wondering about a couple things.

My first thought was the same as Mike's that there was no vent and there was pressure building in the tank, but I doubt that to be the case. If you're running that much water through it in that short a time when you're towing there has to be a vent someplace that is letting the air back in.

Second though is that if the nozzles are that gunked up and limed shut, I think it is possible that the solenoid valve is as well and may be stuck open. I would pull the wire off of it and with the lines disconnected from the nozzles, activate the pump and see if you get water though the line. If you do.... the solenoid valve has failed for some reason and my guess would be that it is limed up and stuck open.

My other thought is that to turn the controller off, wouldn't you have to do the opposite and turn the lower setting UP above the upper setting? My understanding of what you said is that you're doing the opposite and turning the upper setting (full flow) DOWN to a setting below the activation point. Now it could be that this is the way the controller is set to read that it should not activate at all, but it seems to me that the opposite could be true as well and the controller would be on all the time. This probably isn't the case, and I know you have used this thing a lot, so I'm probably wrong in my logic, but it seems odd to me that this would be how the controller is switched off.

 

She is.got to eat lots in the night.and my wife thinks i have to be up with her....oh well.that baby is a cutie.

 

Congrats Aaron. You have to be in the habit of not sleeping as before