HAHAHAHA love the free clutch with sticker purchase.

As for that pivot mount, on mine theres a piece of metal underneath the pivot, maybe 1/8" or so thick. Will that bring it up to be even?

 

It probably would... but I'm not even sure it's necessary. The pivots are "ball shaped" probably for a reason. I checked my parts CD and saw no evidence of any spacer.. You sure someone didn't just make that up?

 

You're probably right, good enough for gov't!

It could be someone else's doing, I've never taken it off to look and see.

 

After this

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-question.html

I think I got the clutch adjusted.

I HAD to remove the under dash spring (so glad I bought one NOS). The pedal wouldn't fully return, for whatever reason, unless the TO bearing was riding the clutch. With the L&L diaphragm clutch, it feels good. Just need to get the engine back together now.

 

x2
But. ;)
You'll *want* one. :)

Hadn't seen it since the old newsgroup days, I guess because vans
aren't included in what I read here and other websites, but they have
trouble with their driveshafts with no carrier bearing. And so, there
was lots of talk about -converting- them to a carrier bearing type. :)

--------------------------------

1310 vs 1350 series joint...

I was fixin' to ask a question about U-joints but researched it myself...
Understanding Universal Joints and Size Charts

Wow. :/

Read "authoritative" looking and sounding websites where they called
the 1350's U-joint caps 1+1/8" instead of using the real size 1+3/16"
(1.188").

And there's -2- Spicer -1310WJ's- that have 1.188" caps! :/
Those are 297's instead of the 260's.

No wonder things are so messed up. :/

My '90 F250 parts truck had 1.062" caps instead of the 1.188" caps
and so the yokes were ruined on the ZF, 10.25 and slip joint. :(

It was being maintained by a "company mechanic" that'd been fired
recently and the new mechanic said-

"sell all these trucks, they're so messed up they ain't worth fixin! :/"

He was cool. :)

Alvin in AZ

 

Thanks for the chart you gave. Still can't see using a 2pc. I never did when it was an auto, and it always seemed fine.

 

Well..... truck runs (there was a minor engine swap here at the same time).

Ran through the gears with no driveshaft and I am happy to say no weird noises or vibrations.

Just need a driveshaft. 65" from joint to joint. I started looking at shafts with a carrier bearing and my eyes glazed over at the multitude of frame brackets for the carrier bearing. Which of course are all riveted to the frame. As my truck was originally a 302/C4, I have none of this.

 

Well, driveshaft acquired. I started the truck, shifted into reverse...... *GRIND*. Adjust clutch.. redo. *GRIND*

WTF?

If I shift gently, it grinds, if I press it, it'll go. I went around the block with the truck, and it was SUPER notchy. I mean I heard these are notchy, but, it almost hesitated a split second between 1 >> Neutral and Neutral >> 2. Couldn't downshift at all either.

To my inexperienced eye and ear, it feels like the input shaft starts spinning when I shift into neutral, even with the clutch pedal depressed. I did NOT grease the clutch splines or the input shaft splines. Was I supposed to?

OR is the T19 pretty much like this?

Here's a crappy video of my experience.

 

That's how it acts when the clutch isn't fully dis-engaging.

What type of pilot bearing you using?
Bronze oil lite or what?
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/bushing&remover.jpg

What type of pressure plate you got?
Diaphragm or the three-fingers with coil-springs type?

Yeah, the splines should be greased or oiled or something. ;)
How dry are they tho?
Seems like a guy can lube those installed. :)

Alvin in AZ

 

Pilot bearing came with the L&L kit, it's a roller type, not a bushing.

Diaphragm pressure plate.

How dry are they? I cleaned them up with degreaser when I put this together, I only put a little grease on the tip of the input shaft and on the collar that the release bearing rides on..

How could I grease this with everything assembled? I figure I'd have to pull the trans back a bit at the least to access the splines.

 

I'd have to take the cover off mine to see if it can be done, for sure.
The best time to do stuff like that is at night when a flashlightkicksbutt! ;)

All it needs is a little oil under the clutch-plate's-hub, ...if even that! :/

First find out how much the parts inside the inspection cover are moving.
Need to figure out for-sure that your clutch is dis-engaging.
It acts like it's not disengaging fully, like it needs more adjustment.

How much free play your pedal got in the cab?

Me and several others have had to lengthen our "crayons"...

...and it needs re-adjusting every once in a while as the plate, fingers,
etc wear-in more play in the system.

That's a motorcycle engine wrist pin welded to my crayon. Stuffed a bolt
inside it to hold everything straight while I welded it with a coat hanger. ;)

Alvin in AZ

 

Did a test tonight.. Long story short, the input isn't spinning at engine RPM when the clutch is depressed, but maybe 1/2 to 3/4 of that speed. like it's dragging along slowly. (I tested this by gently listening for the gear noise right before it grinds.. whrrrrrrrrr.) let out the clutch and the speed increases to match engine RPM.

took it around the block again.. can't downshift it at all and shifting is a bit difficult while driving. I would think the transmission would shift *easier* when rolling vs standing still, not many times harder, right? I wasn't about to forcefully down shift. It's like this in all gears, unless I'm going very slow.

As for the 'crayon', mine is about that long. Mine looked much different (totally threaded rod with two nuts on it). I had to shorten the backside to clear my header tubes, but I have lots of adjustment. As it is, I have the release bearing pretty much ON the pressure plate, and the trans still behaves like this.

I've heard it could be anything from

lack of grease on clutch splines

screwed up pilot bearing (maybe change to a pilot bushing?)

input shaft too long (I could probably see this as a VERY shiny tip on the input shaft, right. but if it were too long, I would think the transmission just plain wouldn't have bolted together.

Input shaft has a rough spot catching on the pilot.. or is too tight.

low gear oil in transmission - It leaked a little out of a PTO cover, but not that much.

Sidenote, this truck now feels like a dumptruck. It needs to be regeared in the rear.

 

Well after a short interruption from a blizzard, I got my trans out.

And I have no idea what I'm looking at. I'm about this close >< to saying eff it and just put a C6 back in it. I am embarrassed and defeated at how much $ I have thrown at this project now (another $200 for a transmission jack).





Here's a test I'd like someone to do for me, if they could.

engine off, rear wheels in the air. truck in any gear, clutch depressed, spin the driveshaft. Should there be ANY noise in the bellhousing? I could hear the clutch going chhhhhh chhhhhhhh chhhhhhhhhh ever so slightly.

 

That's a lot of grease slinging around in that bellhousing.

As for neutral, yadda yadda yadda... you shouldn't hear anything in the bellhousing.

Josh

 

In theory if the clutch was dragging in one spot there'd be a really shiny spot on a pressure plate/flywheel right? I'm reallllly grasping at straws here.