Right.

You sure you have the clutch adjusted correctly? Either under-travel or even adjusted over-travel?

Josh

 

I tried both ways. I even had it so 'over-adjusted' that the release bearing was riding the pressure plate. I would think the truck shouldn't begin to roll ever so slightly with the pedal JUST off the floor? (totally different vehicle, I know) my beater BMW has quite a bit of pedal travel to the floor from the disengagement point.. My truck has like, none.

 

There should be 1.5" free play in the pedal before disengagement and you should be able to push the clutch pedal to the floor

Josh

 

yes the fly wheel could be warped the clutch may not be flat the bear was in the inner hole the one on my 390 is a bushing the is in the outer diameter is the a way that we can have more better pictures of the shaft. it is also possible that the while clutch assembly is for a some thing different the bearing they give me with my clutch was the wrong one but the rest was the same as my old one.

that is a little much grease in that should only need a thin barely see able layer

 

My pilot bearing is in the smaller / deeper / hole closer to the engine. As for the clutch assembly for something different, it's the L&L kit that is shown in the picture.. it fit over the splines of the transmission when I tested it. That's about as far as I tested it.

 

These are the best I can do until I dig out my camera tomorrow.



The splines felt fine with no burrs or anything

I guess when I pull the bell/pressure plate tomorrow I'll be able to see what exactly I have going on. Or a big fire sale, one or the other *half joking*

 

Is that rust on the input shaft splines I see? If so, I would clean the rust off with some emery cloth, and make sure the clutch disc slides on & off the splines with no sticking at all. For lube on the splines, I use a small amount of white lithium grease, like Lubriplate, and slide the disc back and forth along the splines a few times, and remove any excess grease. You do not want too much grease, as it can fling out onto the friction surfaces. As others have said, it appears that you have an awful lot of grease splattered around there. I would also make sure that the release bearing slides smoothly on the front bearing retainer. I don`t put grease on the retainers sleeve, rather I put some white lithium grease inside the small goove inside the release bearing, where it rides on the retainer. I also put a bit of lithium grease on the pivot where the clutch fork sits. Like someone else mentioned, make certain that the input shaft doesn`t bottom out on the crankshaft or pilot bearing, as that could cause several issues.
Also, you are aware that the disc only fits properly one way, right? There should be a sticker or ink stamp that says "flywheel side" on 1 side. If the disc was installed backwards, that could certainly cause issues.

 

Something about that don't-sound right! :/


^is that shiny ring from -your- pilot bearing? :)
If so, that looks about right. :)

------------------------------------------

What engine is it anyway? (don't rely on a signature file or avatar
for your information, many of us have that sissy stuff turned off ;)

an FE/FT
{429/460} ?
351m/400 ?
300/302/351w ?

If it's an FE/FT use a 6303 sealed ball bearing for a pilot bearing! :)
If it's a 351w use a 6003. (looks like 351m/400 is the same = 6003)

I put a small dab of red wheel bearing grease behind the ball bearing.

Here's a 390FE crank with a sloppyass oil-lite bearing in it...

...they suck unless everything is lined up perfect.

Oh heck! :) Is that bell housing from some other engine? :)
Did you check to be sure it's concentric using a dial indicator?
^my 360FE's got that problem from the stinkin factory. :/

------------------------------

$200 for a transmission jack? ;)

IMO transmission jacks are for mechanics that don't want to
fool with carpet...


...I take the opportunity to hang it over the clothes line and
spray it down with the garden hose. LOL :) YMMV?

Alvin in AZ
'75 F150 360FE T18 bought it new and drove it yesterday ;)
ps- that yellow '75 F100 is a parts truck ;)

 

Lol, I guess people don't read threads completely or at all.

Engine '85 460 from an E350
Bell/pedals/plate/etc 79 F350 400
T19 trans from an 85 F250.
Clutch/PP/Flywheel/pilot bearing, all from L&L.

A 460 has two holes in the crank, different widths and depths.

The pilot bearing it came with looks nothing like those. has thin rollers all around the inner perimeter.



As for the 'carpet' Yeah I don't have room in the garage or ambition to do that setup. More power to you though.

I'll pull the pressure plate and clutch tonight and hopefully see something.

 

Ok. Got it apart.

Here's what I found.

Top of flywheel.



Bottom of flywheel.



Appears ok to me.

Pilot Bearing



As you can see it's in the 'inner hole'. Spins totally fine sticking my finger in it.

Pressure plate.





Looks ok. No hot spots or anything.

 

Clutch disk.

Center hub (doesn't appear to be riding the throwout collar )








A few shiny spots here and there? Odd.

I called L&L out of desperation. Really nice guy helped me out. Said the clutch disk could be bent and have runout.

Well, here's my test.

#1. Old clutch that came with the bell housing. (Click for video)




#2. New L&L clutch. (click for video).



This clutch/fly/pp has less than 2 miles and maybe combined 45 minutes run time including idling.

Thoughts?

 

the clutch should be evenly used so that may be the problem is that the bent or raised part is touching even when the rest is disengaged the problem is not unheard of the videos are not working

 

0212132029.mp4 Video by psquare75 | Photobucket

Try that perhaps.

0212132030.mp4 Video by psquare75 | Photobucket

I can put them on youtube, but it's a PITA to wait for them to upload.

 

still nothing on the videos.

 

Odd. I uploaded them to you tube.

This is an OEM 400 disc. Came with the pile of crap from the F350.


Note the right most edge.

This is the L&L disc.


Again, note the right most edge.

Feedback is appreciated.