Very nice!!! Glad to see you are finally getting to make some headway...

 

Nice to see it coming along. Having a block to use without much difficulty eliminates a major obstacle.

 

As promised, here is the O'reilly auto parts number for the ford model 91-99 AA-1 carb. and also the 2100. Walker 15302B $25

 

Well, finally put in and got my first order from MAC's. Got the full valve train kit plus adjustable tappets, 2 front motor mounts and tranny mount, both water pumps, full gasket set, stainless steel engine hardware kit, new head stud kit, fuel pump rebuild kit, rebuild book. Just shy of $1000. Still need pistons and rings, oil pump and screen as I decided not to fuss around rebuilding the old one, camshaft, odds and end pieces for the distributor, clutch disc and throwout bearing, ring gear. Might be able to pick up bearing from my uncle, have to see what he has in storage, that will save a few dollars. Trying to nail down the proper wiring harness to get and brake linings. It seems that the brake linings from a half ton will work on the front of a 1 ton but having a hard time finding rear.

Took the heads, intake, and oil pan in to be cleaned. Their going to magnaflux the heads and rethread one spark plug hole as the threads were bad. And check for flatness of gasket surface.

Started cleaning the inside of the block today and sure enough lots of sand and crap in it. Most of it was at the rear of the block and along the side where the exhaust ports are. Pulled out a good cup and a half of stuff out and flushed with garden hose. Should help the some cooling. The machine shop is going to reclean so hopefully that will pull even more out. Also started scraping away the hard carbon deposits just under the valve seats and need to open up the exhaust ports a little bit.

Also did a leak check of the radiator by filling it up and letting sit a bit, didn't see any leaks so mixed up some CLR to flush it out but very little crud came out. Rinsed it all out good and have it drying. Hopefully it doesn't leak when its up and running.

That's it for now as I'm getting ready to take a little trip for 3 weeks.

 

Do you have a date when you will get her started up?

 

hoping to have it running by August.

 

Well you're way ahead of me. And I just celebrated 46 years of ownership last week.

 

Well after having a nice little vacation, decided to strip the main body parts off the truck today.





Then drained the gas tank, had about a gallon and a half left, pulled that out and cleaned underneath where it sits. The metal there is still pretty solid. Then checked out the nice gap at the back of the cab, a few strategically placed strips of sheet metal should do the trick.



Then of course there's the front floor board, what a mess. Show some replacement panels online that should work well.



Then decided to strip out all the wiring since it is totally shot and found this little critter attached up under the dash on the firewall, not sure what it is called but know it is bad as the coil where the 2 wires on the left are attached is broken.



Also pulled out the instrument cluster to get that cleaned up. The speedo works mostly while running it with a drill but not great. Pulled the light switch, starter push button, and heater. Heater seems to be intact as far as I can tell but need to clean it up and test the fan motor.

Definitely enough for one day.

 

The little critter under the dash is the circuit breaker. They used this instead of a fuse box in those days. The ceramic thing with the 2 wires is the ballast resistor for the ignition. Pretty simply made but not very good for protection from electrical problems. I used mine but I am staying as stock as possible. Most are replaced.

 

That breaker setup of yours is something I haven't seen very much. Up to '46 the circuit breaker was a cube-shaped metal cage with the breaker inside. It was mounted on the inside of the firewall. They used what you've got for a spell then they put the circuit breakers right on the edge of the instrument cluster and put the ballast resistor out beside the coil. It seems to me that the older trucks also located the resistor out at the coil too. Mind you, a lot of the stuff that I pull apart these days has already been pulled apart once or twice and some 'mods' have been done.

 

Well some more goodies today from MACs. Got my pistons and rings, connecting rod nuts and bushings, main bearing nuts, door hinge removal tool, and main wiring harness. That wiring harness sure is nice, good instructions to. Also found that circuit breaker at MACs, so I can get one from there since I need a new one.

Spent a few more hours on the truck today pulling off the doors, taking off the steering box which has a nice leak. Unbolted the cab from the frame and moved it back about 2 feet to have more room to work. Also pulled the brake master cylinder and pedal assembly. Pulled the steering wheel from the column. And started cleaning the crud from the frame. Coming along quite nicely I'd say.

 

what kind off tool did you get for door hinge! is it a puller ,does it work good! nice work!

 

Bernette, to answer your question. The tool came from MACs, 1932-1948 Hinge Pin Removal Tool Kit - Heavy-Duty Forged Steel Body - MAC's Antique Auto Parts

Seemed to work pretty slick except for the really stubborn pins, I did however modify it to work a little better. I chamfered the bottom of the hole where the hinge pin head goes into.

 

thanks

 

A small note on the door hinge pin tool, if the pins are really stuck you start to bend the pins that come with the tool. If that happens you'll have to use heat and possibly a punch and a hammer to start it. I had one hinge pin that was really stuck and had to grind half the hinge away to get it out. But as long as the pins aren't super stuck this tool will move them.