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Old Jun 24, 2013 | 10:23 PM
  #46  
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Another small update today. Pulled both front wheels and removed the brake cylinders to rebuild. Driver side is part # 25214 and pass. side is 25213. Both are the 1-3/8" bore size. I used a Napa rebuild kit #115 for both sides, turned out really nice. Have them labeled and bagged ready to be put back on. Still have to figure out which brake linings I can use to reline the original shoes, I believe I read somewhere that the brake shoes for a 1/2 ton truck are the same as the 1 ton but can't find where I read that.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 05:08 PM
  #47  
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Another update. Pulled the passenger side rear hubs to get at the brake cylinders. Just pulled the wheel, then loosened the 8 nuts that hold it in place. Then gave it about 3 good raps with a 10 pound sledge hammer to free up the locks, undid the nuts and pulled out the axle. Pretty simple. Rebuilt the wheel cylinder with Napa part #103. Bagged and tagged.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2013 | 01:15 AM
  #48  
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Finally got back to the junkyard to get my doors. Both fit perfectly. The only difference I see right now is that the doors I picked up don't have a metal frame attached to the glass like my originals do. Hopefully I can just swap everything out as my glass is still intact mostly. Also grabbed the original bumper for $25, the chrome is peeling but just gonna strip that off and paint it black or rhino-line it.

Pulled the last rear wheel cylinder out and rebuilt that. Found that the rear brake linings are 2" wide and the fronts are 1-3/4" wide. Also tore apart the master cylinder apart and hone the inside, just have to order the rebuild kit. Bore is 1-1/4". Also need to get the hardware kits to replace the springs, clips, bolts, and e-brake cables.

Tore apart the clutch and brake pedal assembly, what a pain that was getting that pin out of the pedal shaft. Got both pedal arms and mount wire brushed down for painting. Will probably replace the bushings as there is a little play and maybe the shaft as well.

Got most of the ignition and distributor parts from MAC's, bad news they don't have and won't be getting any more the circuit breakers that I need. But I did see that they had a 40-ohm resistor which should bolt on to the little circuit board where my original is. 1932-1948 Ignition Coil Resistor - 40 Ohm - Replacement Style - Ford - MAC's Antique Auto Parts
It was the only part on the board that was bad as it was missing a chunk out of the thin wire that wraps around the white cylinder piece.

Hopefully the machine shop will have the crank and rods done this week as well as the heads. Just have to finish cleaning out the block so they can grind the valve seats for the new valves and install cam bearings.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2013 | 08:12 PM
  #49  
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Finally tracked down some original style tires. They are a tornel traction 10-ply 7.50x17 from Mexico. Coker tires seems to be the importer for these. Got 4 of them through jegs.com for $700 total with free shipping, not too shabby. Got 2 of them mounted today after tearing off the temp tires and wiring brushing and painting the rims I had on there. Looks pretty darn good.





 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 04:12 PM
  #50  
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stella great looking tires thanks for posting. i will be checking out Jegs when i'm ready.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2013 | 04:30 PM
  #51  
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Well, finally got the last 2 tires on today. Looks pretty darn sharp and puts the truck up in the air nicely. The part # for the rims are Budd 44630, 17x7.50
 
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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 09:04 AM
  #52  
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Hey! I've been kinda browsing your thread here reading up and doing some research on the 1947 Ford and a half ton wood-box dump truck my grandfather bought brand spanking new way back in 1947! Just wondering if you wouldn't mind me askin ya questions along the way if I do get to do that? Yours looks really good and you're makin some dang good progress by the looks!
 
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Old Jul 27, 2013 | 09:20 PM
  #53  
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Questions are always welcome, will try to answer anything I can. That's what these forums are for.

Update time, started to do a little body work to see what shade of green I like. Was going to do a semi-gloss olive drab type but then found this gem at Menard's next to it. It's rust-oleum racing green metallic #7252. This is a rough test spot where I just painted over the old paint just to get an idea of what it looks like. I think this will look totally awesome with a flat black frame and rims.


 
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 12:12 AM
  #54  
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Well, got all the glass out of the truck. cracked one of the windshield panes which sucks but fortunately i can get new. probably will replace all the glass anyways just because. took in the brake shoes to be relined, about $100 for all 4 wheels which doesn't seem too bad considering it would cost about that just to get the linings. also gonna take the drums in to be turned, they are grooved from the rivets wearing in but told them i just want to take off the high spots and clean them up. started grinding and sanding the old paint and rust on the cab, the metal is kind of rough due to small rust pitting all over. however the primer and paint i'll be using should fill that all in nicely. pulled all the trim pieces off the hood to get started with that, most of the little clips and such broke apart but the main screws came out without breaking luckily. pulled out the broken glass from my replacement doors along with the regulator assembly and the old window channel pieces as they rotted pretty good. got the steering box cleaned and painted and install new gaskets, had a good size leak due to no gasket on the small cover with the rod attached. also got the steering column tube cleaned and painted. did some more color testing on the cab with a larger area to get a better idea. placed an order with speedway for a new camshaft, an Isky max 1. would have preferred a new old cam but oh well. also placed another order with MACs, wiring harness for all the lights, new rocker panels and floor sheet metal, master cylinder rebuild kit, tranny gasket set, and various bits and pieces. machine shop has the flywheel resurfaced and bearing installed replacing the old style bushing and new ring gear. connecting rods are reconditioned as well as pistons installed, heads were cleaned and found to have no cracks, just need a quick surfacing to make sure their flat. crank is being finished this week. i'm pretty much done cleaning out the block, just have to lap in the new valves, then i'll take it in to have it steamed again to get all residue out and have them install cam bearings.



 
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Old Aug 1, 2013 | 11:44 PM
  #55  
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Worked over the gas tank and radiator today and small tin piece that hood attaches to. also took a day time pic of the cab painted a bit.





 
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Old Aug 2, 2013 | 08:12 PM
  #56  
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Wow looking good I like your color choices where did you get that radiator shroud .

Thanks Bob
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 12:06 AM
  #57  
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Thx, the radiator shroud is original equipment as far as i can tell.

Finally got the block pretty much cleaned out and ready to be steam cleaned and cam bearings installed. got all the new valves lapped in to the seats, there was some very tiny pits in the seats but not enough to warrant a full on grinding. it's not a race motor so it will be fine. got the lifter valley pretty well squared away as far as rust goes, cleaning out under that oil tube running down the middle was no fun. pumped a little pressurized air in and didn't notice any leaks. also cleaned up the intake and painted it a nice ford blue.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 02:27 PM
  #58  
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Wow! Slowly coming together! Looks fantastic and I agree, I really like that color! Are you going to post videos of the first start up?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 09:49 PM
  #59  
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Gonna try to do a video if i'm not to scared to press the starter button haha.

Another quality update today, got the cab off the frame after seeing a picture on another website. those engine lifts work pretty slick. It was a little floppy trying to get it off as a second person would have been handy to steady the cab while pulling the engine lift away. The thing that made it floppy was not having the straps move while in the hook on the chain, may wrap them around it a couple times when I put the cab back on the frame. Sized up the new floor board and rocker panels, should be funny cutting and welding and not messing up. Removed the running boards, have metal missing between the 2 rear carriage bolts that hold it to the arm. Haven't decided how to fix that yet but it probably won't quite look stock. Then wire wheeled the front half of the frame and gave it a coat of rust-oleum rust reformer then topped that off with a layer of rust-oleum truck bed liner spray.





 
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Old Aug 9, 2013 | 11:58 PM
  #60  
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More goodies today, finally got back the crankshaft, flywheel, and piston/connecting rods. All bearings will be 10 under, thought it would be more due to the rust on one of the main journals. Also got the brakes back from the brake shop, things almost look brand new. Darn nice for $125. Got the frame completely painted/coated but still have to do suspension parts. Bumper finished and mounted. Re-coated the gas tank with the liner spray instead of just paint, also painted the oil pan, air cleaner assembly, and starter.







 
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