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I'm running a chev one wire alternator on the 8ba I put in my '47 2 ton last year. Not sure what I enjoy more about the swap, the way it stays fully charged and always fires off instantly, of the fun I have pissing off my purist buddies who hate seeing a modern piece of equipment 'ruining' an otherwise beautiful flattie.
I don't mind seeing that but I would much rather see one of these than one of those junky Delcos. You can get one brand new for $80. This one is mine and going on the Quadravan.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161706217841?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
well, got the bed bolted to the frame. also got all lights working finally. did a recheck of the charging system and get 6.3v at idle and higher rpms. get 6.2v when the lights are on. fully charged battery sits at 6.6v. one thing that maybe an issue is i can't remember if i polarized the voltage regulator before starting the motor the first time. have to do more testing.
not sure what i did to cause it, but i have 6.6v at the battery when running. only thing i can think of that might have helped was i pulled the cover off the voltage regulator hoping to find an adjustment screw. didn't see one. was just pushing a little on the tabs that hold the points above the coils in there making sure they moved. maybe the adjustment is bending the tabs in or out for a higher or lower voltage. instructions don't show anyway to adjust. was driving around for about an hour or so tweaking the carbs and distributor brake and never once did it fail to start or act as if the battery was getting low. safe to assume for now the charging system is ok.
Long overdue update. took the truck to a couple shows in the area, one was about 35 miles round trip. longest trip made so far since completion. cruises nicely at 45 but anything faster is running the snot out of the motor. don't want that. so have been contemplating a rear end swap to keep those rpm's down and make it a little more user friendly. also just got my grille bars delivered that were back ordered for a while. look descent enough being just plain steel, should look just fine when i get them coated with the black truck bed liner paint i have been using.
Since you have the stock wheels I don't think you will find any other rear axle with that bolt pattern (Stu may correct me on that). It looks so nice stock, have you considered re-gearing the stock axle?
Since you have the stock wheels I don't think you will find any other rear axle with that bolt pattern (Stu may correct me on that). It looks so nice stock, have you considered re-gearing the stock axle?
I hardily agree here. The wheels are my favorite thing on these tonners. I know the '38 tonner had a 4:11 rear axle. It's narrower and has cable brakes, but I would bet the guts would interchange. Now to find one....
I hardily agree here. The wheels are my favorite thing on these tonners. I know the '38 tonner had a 4:11 rear axle. It's narrower and has cable brakes, but I would bet the guts would interchange. Now to find one....
Most of the guts interchange. The 38 is torque tube drive, the 40 and later trucks are open drive. I was recently told that the difference between torque tube and open drive is drilling and tapping the end of the pinion for the bolt that holds the u-joint yoke. Now the trick is finding a 38 1 ton axle to part out...
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
