Well, got the cylinder heads today. they sure are nice looking. did a test fit on the block to see if the valves would hit without a gasket and didn't get anything. so that problem is solved. but of course one has to have a couple of issues. the head stud kit i ordered to replace all the old ones won't work. the only studs i can use are the long ones so i need to order 24 more new long ones to be able to mount the heads. and of course have to get different spark plugs with at least 3/4" reach as the hole for the spark plug is awfully deep. the autolite 216 i have are too short of course.


Made some more progress on the cab today. whipped up a couple of repair panels for the front lower corners of the cab. used some sheet metal i picked up from menards awhile ago. laid a paper towel over the area that needed fixed and traced it out on the paper then cut out tracing from paper and laid it out on the sheet metal. traced the pattern out then cut the metal a little extra big too be safe. attached metal to cab with vise grips and formed metal by hand to fit the contour and trimmed off the excess. spot welded the piece in, ground down the welds a bit and hit with paint so it wouldn't rust up. did that to both sides. still need to do the rear corners and the bottom behind the gas tank.

 

didn't read all the posts but a possible answer to pitted cylinders is sleeving them .

 

Definitely got a bunch done today. Got the engine stand adapter and putting it to good use. Had to modify it a bit as there was no holes for the lock pin that keeps from spinning around. Also installed the new rope oil seals, crank and bearings. crank end play between rear bearing flange and crank is .0015-.002, book says no more than .008 and no less than .002, would appear to be pretty darn close. Also installed pistons #1 and #5 to check for top dead center. Something still seems weird to me with the timing marks on the gears not lining up perfectly. While rotating the engine and watching the #1 piston and valves the movements seem right but for some reason I can't shake the feeling something is off a little. I'll try to post a video of it if I can.

 

here's the video

 

I believe I have figured out why I can't get the timing marks lined up perfectly like a normal motor. The cam and the crank are parallel to each other but not stacked directly on top of each other. If I remember my reading correctly the cam sits just a hair off of the centerline of the block. I'm such an idiot

 

what is the bearing pre lube ?

 

The bearing prelube is Isky rev lube for camshafts. I had ordered an extra tub of it when I got the camshaft. used it on the cam and lifters, then the main and connecting rod bearings, inside the oil pump, and on the fuel pump push rod.

Definitely got alot accomplished saturday, pretty much have the whole motor assembled. ran into some clearance issues with the oil pump pickup. at first the screened part was hitting the oil pan so i bent a bit to clear that. then after getting the oil pan attached and sealed and flywheel attached, i gave the engine a final turn and got stopped by something. undid the oil pan drain plug to look inside and noticed light blue paint flakes on the edge of the last crank weight. low and behold the tube for the oil pickup was causing the interference with the crank. so took the pan off, hating doing that when the rtv is setting up, took the pickup off and sort of dimpled the area that was rubbing. not enough to cause a flow issue but enough to clear the crank with room to spare. resealed the pan and gave the engine another turn, no more interference.
then started the process of installing heads, ran a thread chaser in all stud holes to clean them out so studs would go all the way in. then of course we have to have more problems, noticed a stud on either side of the block was not sitting straight up and down as it should. the studs themselves were straight it's just that the holes were crooked. off just enough to keep the heads from sliding on. pulled those studs out completely and finished installing the heads. could only do one side as i didn't have enough washers, only ordered 24 instead of 48. coated all the stud holes in the heads with a little anti-sieze to reduced future headaches. got one head torque down and reinstalled the crooked hole stud, it bottomed out as it should but will have to trim a side of the washer to get that to fit nicely. installed the intake then mounted the fuel pump stand. whilst trying to attach the fuel pump noticed one of the holes in the stand has stripped out threads except for one or two deep inside, great another problem. attached fuel pump with the remaining good hole then put locktite on the other bolt and screwed it in but didn't really tighten it. checked out the stand from the junkyard motor, that was in rough shape too. the part that mounts to intake was bowed up about an 1/8" and one of the stud holes has a crack in it. it may be salvageable but holding off playing with it for now.

didn't progress as far as i wanted to in one day but not too shabby considering all the bull crap issues. about the only things that went off without a hitch was installing the timing cover and water pumps.

you can actually see the crooked stud in the pic of the head gasket, it's the one just to the left of the gasket markings in the bottom middle.

 

Sorry about not updating lately, had to take care of some family issues. Anyways, got the brakes bled and set except for the front driver side, need a 3-way splitter for the pass. side to run line in between. got all the holes patched except for the very back of the cab on the bottom, will patch that with cab on frame. got the motor and trans back in the frame and bolted down. went to put oil in it and found a leak in the oil pan, got that repaired. finished putting all accessories on and flushed out block with water to get rid of any scale and rust residue. pretty much ready to go as it sits now, refill with oil, hook up fuel line, and rerun the wiring. the cab isn't complete put will sand and paint the dash area so the gauges and switches can go back in and get wired. also need to refill the tranny but not sure how much or what kind of fluid? have 2 quarts of 600w oil i used in the rearend and was thinking of using that.

 

Coming along really well, a lot faster than I'm going on my truck. For your transmission oil, I'd try something like Amsoil synthetic (or equivilant) 80/90. It looks like you're using the T-9 and it's a howler at the best of times. The synthetic lube seems to quiet them down somewhat. For the stripped out holes in your fuel pump mount, try installing helicoil thread inserts. I use them all the time and they're good and install fairly easily; all you need is a drill and a tap handle; the proper tap is in the kit. Enjoy.

 

hide , throw or dump the 600 wt oil unless your scared it is going to come past some seal of some kind . That stuff had its place back in the day but there is lot better oils out now .

 

That is looking pretty! good work!

 

got quite a bit in the past 2 days. got the cab bolted down to the frame although i had to cut the welds i put on the rocker panels to be-able to push the driver rear cab corner back to get the hole to line up. tacked on the 2 cab corner patch pieces and the lower cab center piece between the corners and installed a new transmission cover. the gauge metal of these pieces is pretty hefty, shouldn't rot out for another 50 years. bondo'ed up the edges that were left, put quite a bit on so no edges are visible now. just have to sand it down nicely. also tacked in some sheet metal at the inside back of the cab, doesn't look at all like factory but will definitely do the trick. also made up some panels for the inside curve of the rear cab corners, didn't quite turn out the way i was hoping but will work none the less. got the interior of the cab painted, will put another coat on before i install the insulation and replace all the goofy cardboard panels and headliner. filled the tranny up but had to pop the top off as it wouldn't shift into any gears, one the the 3 rods in the top cover was in the wrong position-fixed now. filled the engine with oil and antifreeze and mounted the ign. coil. may have to move that as i have it bolted to a water pump bolt and it's awfully close to the pulley.

 

Ugh, got an update on my headers I've been waiting for from MAC's, looks like the middle of next month before they ship out. was kind of hoping to start the truck and get it running with the headers but don't feel like waiting that long so I will clean up my original exhaust manifolds and use them for now to at least get it running.

 

Was thinking of adding carpet to the floor of the cab to cover help help protect the new floor I put in, I have a wood sheet I need to cutout like the piece that was in there but didn't just want wood rubbing against metal plus the carpet will help to deaden road noise and such. Was thinking of using an indoor/outdoor type carpet. Any thoughts?

 

if your concerned about noise or sound coming through I have seen eastwood restoration sells a layered sound deadener that sticks on one side . Guess your not going with a cherry bomb or glasspack mufflers then ?