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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 04:47 PM
  #211  
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Yeah i intend to take my time, i am worried about the bolts and the gasket not fitting or me not setting them right or bolting it down then realizing i forgot something... Same fear as just about any project i have done.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 05:30 PM
  #212  
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I know how you feel. The worst part is taking the old bolts out. I went ahead and replaced my intake volts with some new ones. Cheap insurance.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 06:38 PM
  #213  
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The most important thing is the gasket on either end of the intake. They are usually rubber. They are pretty easy to smoosh out. A good blob of something like silicone is a pretty good idea as well.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 06:51 PM
  #214  
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Since I was using edelbrock parts (even new botls) I figured I'd use their instructions. They tell you to throw the cork/rubber gaskets out and jsut use silicone at either end. I did this and it worked great. Just lay a thick bead on either end and let it sit for about 15-20 minutes to just start to harden then coat the intake with you finger around all the ports and set it on as straight as you can. Put a few bolts in and gradually start tightening them down in criss cross.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 01:09 AM
  #215  
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Ok, yeah so far everyone has just said to use the Silicone on the ends. Then i just have to buy the silicone and the port gaskets. I will probably look into ordering bolts with the gasket cause mine are old and i wouldn't trust them once they come off. Though would it be better to go down to the Fastenal bolt store with one intake bolt and just buy some grade 8's from them? I can get 6-8 bolts grade 8 and full thread for maybe 3-4 dollars versus spending triple at Napa or Oriellys. The AZ that is being built is almost done though so i figured i would order the gasket through them and kind of "become friends" and try to be a loyal customer of the first few that visit. Turns out we have a few around here but their all farther away than Napa and the one being built is within 3 miles.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 01:14 AM
  #216  
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Going that route will probably be cheaper. They shouldn't cost that much. Finding one parts store is a good idea, should get you cheaper prices in the long run. I deal with one parts store and on guy behind the counter when possible. Although everyone working there knows me by name. I quite often walk out with a hand full of bolts or something with a just take it.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 02:00 AM
  #217  
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Yeah there is one guy at the local oriellys i sort of know, and i have a friend form my old auto tech class who works for Napa. Plus a few of the other people know me there because of a u-joint fiasco and a few other problems with the store itself. The only issue is they are quite a drive and if the bronco is down and out and my mom has her van i can ride a bike to the new local AZ and it would take me like 30 minutes max. But going to Napa would take a few hours. Plus i have heard a lot of good things about AZ and have had some... Interesting experiences with Napa/oriellys. If the bolts aren't crazy expensive at the parts store i will get them there but i was wondering.. Wouldn't grade 8 be stronger? Or are intake bolts generally a pretty hefty bolt?
 
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 02:04 AM
  #218  
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Off hand I don't remember. I had the intake off my 390 last fall but dom't recall their size. Now that is one heavy manifold. A two person job to put back on.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 02:26 AM
  #219  
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Yeah i have heard the cast iron ones are a b***h to take on and off, but i think my performer 400 being aluminum is really light. I don't know about the 2bbl cast iron anchor on there now though. The reason i asked about the bolts is if they were made of a lower grade metal they would be susceptible to aging and twisting in half over a higher grade. At least thats my thought...
 
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 02:29 AM
  #220  
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I guess the other way to look at it is that a harder bolt would probably be harder to drill out if they were to break. I have never had an intake bolt break. Exhaust bolts are another story, it seems I can't get a couple manifolds off without breaking at least a couple.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 02:39 AM
  #221  
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Originally Posted by Zip
I guess the other way to look at it is that a harder bolt would probably be harder to drill out if they were to break. I have never had an intake bolt break. Exhaust bolts are another story, it seems I can't get a couple manifolds off without breaking at least a couple.
Thats true, i didn't think about it that way. I rue the day i have to change my mani's for some headers... I guess i will get to effectively learn to drill out broken bolts..
 
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 02:42 AM
  #222  
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The spare bronco I got my engine out of has headers so I had that option when I put the engine in the new one. I found some stock manifolds instead. One reason is it's hard not to have any leaks and the second is it had a fairly new exhaust from the manifold back.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 04:34 AM
  #223  
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I got some real nice looking 12pt point bolts by edelbrock. Not too pricey but not cheap. You don't need grade 8 for the intake. With aluminum intakes you only torque to like 20 ft-lbs. So you really don't need a heavy duty bolt.

Also you won't believe how much that cast iron intake weighs compared to the aluminum one.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 05:09 AM
  #224  
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Oh only 20? Wow, i thought it was more.

Yeah i figured the cast one would be real heavy and most likely a lot heavier than the 302 one i pulled off a motor in my garage... I am prepared for that as well.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 05:21 AM
  #225  
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Soo pretty much in total i am looking at about $49 dollars for bolts and a gasket... here they are

Edelbrock/Intake Manifold Gasket - Perform (7265) | 1978 Ford Bronco 8 Cylinders H 5.8L 2BLModified OHV | AutoZone.com

Edelbrock/Performer Series intake manifold bolt kit for Ford 351M/400 engines - Not legal for sale/use on poll. controlled veh. (8574) | Intake Manifold Hardware | AutoZone.com

Both look promising, but i think i will end up bringing in the intake just so i have no mistakes. I guess i should get around to cleaning it up...


Also is this the right kind of sealer to use on the front and back parts?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=554048_0_0_
 
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