I have a 1997 F350 powerstroke with 206k. It will die 2-3 times after initial start up on a cool morning. If I plug it in it will die 0-1 times. It dies whether I let it idle or not. Once the dying period is over, it will run all day with no trouble. I just replaced a bad injector module and I had hoped that might fix the problem. I also changed the fuel filter along with all fluids as this is a new to me truck. I am calling 40-50 degree mornings cool. If it is in the 60's, no problems. Any ideas?

 

Are you letting the glow plugs warm up? There should be a 'wait to start' light that will go off after 10~45 seconds depending on temperature. If you don't properly warm the cylinders before starting it will start hard and die.

 

Yes, the glow plugs wait start light cycles off before I start.

 

Also, it starts right up, no problem and runs for up to three minutes before it dies.

 

Coolant temp sensor with a dead spot, perhaps?

 

Would that be easy to diagnose, or do you just replace?

 

I'd guess CPS. I've heard of them doing some REALLY screwy stuff when they start to go bad. GP's and GPR have nothing to do with it because you say it starts just fine. PCM pays no attention to coolant temp and bases all its calculations on engine oil temp (EOT), but I don't see that doing it either since it would run regardless of what it thought the EOT was. Less than $40 for a Ford CPS (don't get one from anyone other than Ford or International) makes it a (relatively) cheap experiment.

 

Thanks DIYMECHANIC. Is it hard to change out? Where is it?

 

Nope, not difficult at all. It takes a 10mm socket and is located above and to the passenger side of (about the 11 o'clock position) the main crank pulley on the front of the engine. Takes 10 minutes as long as the head isn't stripped off the bolt.

Look over the wiring harness as well while you're there to make sure it doesn't look like it has been rubbing on something that could have damaged the wiring.

 

Could be missing the rubber piece and causing mouisture in the plug when its cool.

 

Thanks DIYMechanic and bad12jr. I'll let you know what happens.

 

It uses EOT and BARO to operate the gp's even still It shouldnt cut out based on that I would suspect the CPS too.

 

Make sure the socket is seated well on a gunk-free bolt head. Awkward angles make it pretty easy to strip that little guy.

 

Use a 6 point socket too that makes it a lot more difficult to strip it out than a 12 point socket.

 

Look here post #9
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ont-start.html