Build Thread: '49 F321
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,203
Likes: 4
From: Southern SC.
Jeff- I have pics of the jag valve in a gallery DAVES49F3 and hopefully this is going to work to give you the pic https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...224274&thumb=1 in the gallery I put 2 pics one with the ruler in inches the other in mm hope this woks dls
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,203
Likes: 4
From: Southern SC.
One more thing- it looks like3 washerson the valve- I did not take it apart but it does have the nut at the end like the article said. mine is off an 86 XJS V12 narrow belt pump. hope that helps dls
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Pekin, IL
Thanks Dave, that info should come in handy when the time comes...if it ever does! LOL
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Pekin, IL
Got my AOD torn apart and just bought some rebuild items.
I am glad I didn't try to use it as is....I would have been disappointed...
The direct drum was fried, a snap ring and retainer went haywire, but other than that, it is a go for rebuild! Bought a used replacement direct drum, a rebuild kit, a 2500 rpm stall lock-up converter, oh...and a shift reprogrammer kit from Baumann Engineering.
I gotta thank BlueOvalRage for putting up with me! Thanks Joe!
I got some real tedious cleaning to do, a trip to KY, and then time to start putting it back together.
I am glad I didn't try to use it as is....I would have been disappointed...
The direct drum was fried, a snap ring and retainer went haywire, but other than that, it is a go for rebuild! Bought a used replacement direct drum, a rebuild kit, a 2500 rpm stall lock-up converter, oh...and a shift reprogrammer kit from Baumann Engineering.
I gotta thank BlueOvalRage for putting up with me! Thanks Joe!
I got some real tedious cleaning to do, a trip to KY, and then time to start putting it back together.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,793
Likes: 19
From: Austin
Hey Jeff,
If I can ask an AOD question or two...
o What Baumann Engineering "shift kit" did you use?
o How can you tell looking at the Overdrive Drum that it's fried?
I've been contemplating putting in a new Governor in mine to raise the
shift points ... Hmmm... I wouldn't wait too long to put that thing back together - there's a lot of pieces to that puzzle..
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
If I can ask an AOD question or two...
o What Baumann Engineering "shift kit" did you use?
o How can you tell looking at the Overdrive Drum that it's fried?
I've been contemplating putting in a new Governor in mine to raise the
shift points ... Hmmm... I wouldn't wait too long to put that thing back together - there's a lot of pieces to that puzzle..
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,577
Likes: 29
From: Pekin, IL
Sorry for any wierdness to this post. i am on my "smart" phone....not so smart...
Hey Jeff,
If I can ask an AOD question or two...
.
o What Baumann Engineering "shift kit" did you use? www.becontrols.com it's the RK AOD $59.95 you can read about it there. i just ordered it yesterday.
o How can you tell looking at the Overdrive Drum that it's fried? It's actually a "direct drum" and its apparently a common problem so i have read. picture number 2, above, is a picture of the friction and steel plates that came out out of it. they should have friction material like a clutch disc. and the steels should be smooth and flat. these are none of the above! aka Fried!! lol the drum itself is discolored from heat. the aluminum piston inside is also discolored and even slightly degraded from the heat it produced while slipping.
I've been contemplating putting in a new Governor in mine to raise the
shift points ... Hmmm... I wouldn't wait too long to put that thing back together - there's a lot of pieces to that puzzle..
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
If I can ask an AOD question or two...
.
o What Baumann Engineering "shift kit" did you use? www.becontrols.com it's the RK AOD $59.95 you can read about it there. i just ordered it yesterday.
o How can you tell looking at the Overdrive Drum that it's fried? It's actually a "direct drum" and its apparently a common problem so i have read. picture number 2, above, is a picture of the friction and steel plates that came out out of it. they should have friction material like a clutch disc. and the steels should be smooth and flat. these are none of the above! aka Fried!! lol the drum itself is discolored from heat. the aluminum piston inside is also discolored and even slightly degraded from the heat it produced while slipping.
I've been contemplating putting in a new Governor in mine to raise the
shift points ... Hmmm... I wouldn't wait too long to put that thing back together - there's a lot of pieces to that puzzle..
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Pekin, IL
Ben,
I am curious about your setup and will get back to you from a computer instead of this "stupid phone" ... my fingers are way to big for these very small buttons!
i can get you a link to a decent tutorial on the governor removal. not a real tough job, but it sure is easier on a tabletop vs. under the truck!
I am curious about your setup and will get back to you from a computer instead of this "stupid phone" ... my fingers are way to big for these very small buttons!
i can get you a link to a decent tutorial on the governor removal. not a real tough job, but it sure is easier on a tabletop vs. under the truck!
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2012
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Hey Jeff the pic of your motor looks great! Is that the correct oil pan! It looks flat from the front to rear sump. I thought you used the one that has a double hump. I looked at your early pic about which pan worked with the Jag front. Now I am confused but maybe you can help me. I dont know If I am clear on my question about the double hump Large on the rear and small hump on the front.The one on the rightin the pic. It looks on this pic it is flat from the back hump to the front.Thanks for your input sorry for not making alot cents. I need spell check.. George
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Pekin, IL
Hey Jeff the pic of your motor looks great! Is that the correct oil pan! It looks flat from the front to rear sump. I thought you used the one that has a double hump. I looked at your early pic about which pan worked with the Jag front. Now I am confused but maybe you can help me. I dont know If I am clear on my question about the double hump Large on the rear and small hump on the front.The one on the rightin the pic. It looks on this pic it is flat from the back hump to the front.Thanks for your input sorry for not making alot cents. I need spell check.. George
. I got one on line the progress will continue..
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Joined: Oct 2010
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In these pics you can see my engine mounts that I fabricated. I tried an angular type engine mount and I didn't like the difficulty of trying to calc the right height, width, angle, etc. so I used a different route using the JAG engine mount
rubber biscuits or "crumpets" as someone called them!
The lowers are made out of that same 1/4" plate from the homemade bedsides.
the uppers are too, but wrapped with 3/16"x 3/4" flat bar. On the bottom side of the uppers, I welded (2/ea side) 3/16"x1/2" flat bar in , for stiffening. I was a little concerned about engine torque bending these. I still have some concern about that, but after seeing some of the skimpy aftermarket mounts...I shouldn't have to worry much. We shall see!
rubber biscuits or "crumpets" as someone called them!
The lowers are made out of that same 1/4" plate from the homemade bedsides.
the uppers are too, but wrapped with 3/16"x 3/4" flat bar. On the bottom side of the uppers, I welded (2/ea side) 3/16"x1/2" flat bar in , for stiffening. I was a little concerned about engine torque bending these. I still have some concern about that, but after seeing some of the skimpy aftermarket mounts...I shouldn't have to worry much. We shall see!
Hey Jeff like how you made your motor mounts. How much clearance did you have from your firewall ? I am about ready to start fabing for some motor mounts and I think I can modify my stock crossmember for the t-5. iam thinking do something like you did I first have to get the motor and trans where they need to be . i think yours are pretty beefy i dont think you will have any problem. George
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
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From: Island Southeast Alaska
Hey Barnfind? What is the engine in your avatar? I looked for it in your album thing and WOW Bud do ya drive that rig with the blower? That is awesome as all get out. Please tell about it some. Have ya got a build thread on here for it? Is that the engine in your avatar?
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Pekin, IL
Hey Jeff like how you made your motor mounts. How much clearance did you have from your firewall ? I am about ready to start fabing for some motor mounts and I think I can modify my stock crossmember for the t-5. iam thinking do something like you did I first have to get the motor and trans where they need to be . i think yours are pretty beefy i dont think you will have any problem. George
It's the drivers side you got to pay attention to because it sets back farther than the passenger side. If you do a set like mine, also make sure you have your oil filter on the motor or remote mount unit, whatever you are going to use. It is a pretty snug fit on mine. A 1/4" difference would kill ya!