Looking good Jeff. did you jag front end have trailing arms? I no see.Also is the Big C clamp staying.LOL Any way please don,t make me look bad with your progress I am really lagggging. I am soft mounting with a little notch level for mounting the crossmember. Great Job Jeff keep the pics coming. Buzzy

 

In these pics you can see my engine mounts that I fabricated. I tried an angular type engine mount and I didn't like the difficulty of trying to calc the right height, width, angle, etc. so I used a different route using the JAG engine mount
rubber biscuits or "crumpets" as someone called them!
The lowers are made out of that same 1/4" plate from the homemade bedsides.
the uppers are too, but wrapped with 3/16"x 3/4" flat bar. On the bottom side of the uppers, I welded (2/ea side) 3/16"x1/2" flat bar in , for stiffening. I was a little concerned about engine torque bending these. I still have some concern about that, but after seeing some of the skimpy aftermarket mounts...I shouldn't have to worry much. We shall see!

 

Okay, on to my shock mounts for the front. Again using some steel bar from the truck...the previous owner pulled a tractor to the field using this truck. the so-called hitch was a pair of flat bars. Each bar was 1/2"x 2" approx. 3' long.
attached to the back of the truck and front of the tractor with big pins and clips. I bet that tractor was all over the road! I used these bars to make the main structure of my shock mounts.
In the first picture look at the hitch area, the two bars are visible.
And a somewhat finished shockmount with strengtheners added. All welded to the frame.

 

Subscribing, love the work done so far, keep up the good work, and keep up the great pics.

 

It's funny when I see your username now! Buzzbox is the first thought! George it is though!
I cut the arms off, not needed and in the way when welding it to the frame. And it looks nice too! Your advantage is adjustability, replacement not impossible and a bit more of a "Town and Country" ride!

 

Going to watch this.....thanks for the information.

Paul

 

A few more shots of my JAG IFS. And yes, my vertical welds are nasty and embarrassing. But I welded and then cleaned out and welded again.

 

I chose a 351W in the heat of the moment. I always thought the 351W and 302 were basically the same, dimensionally. Now I know that's not true! The 351W is wider and a little bit taller. Taller is no issue for the Bonus Built engine compartment. Wider presents an issue with the Jag steering shaft along the drivers side. But if you want it bad enough, it can be worked out. The biggest problem is the cost of those dang u-joints! They are proud of those little suckers! I wanted my engine centered left to right. You can offset it to the passenger side a bit, but I didn't want that. I went to the salvage yard and pulled steering u-joints from '80's and '90's Ford trucks and vans. Under the dash they come out pretty easy and are useable with 3/4" DD shaft. You have to machine some flats in the shaft and grind out a spot so the bolts can go through. If you look at the end of some truck steering column you can see how they are made and I just duplicated the Ford design. A little time consuming but cheap and effective. My first setup worked good enough to move it in and out of the garage, but I knew it had to change because it was binding up enough to bother me. and the middle joint was really close to the header. This is my first attempt.

 

My headers are just ceramicoat replacements for a Mustang. Bought them scratch and dent for a $100. There was one light dent on the passenger side front tube. The exhaust gases won't have enough time to see it so neither will I.

 

What steering column did you use?

 

One thing I learned about steering u-joints. The factory ford joints and aftermarket joints (3/4" DD) do not phase (line up) properly. I think that is done to keep you from using anything but ALL NEW u-joints. But that's just my conspiracy theory. I used 3/4" wooden dowel rod for my mock up. A little quick work on the bench grinder and it works great!

 

It is from a Bronco II, tilt column. I will be changing the color of it of course.
I spent $40 on the column. the internals are the same in thunderbirds and cougars, maybe others as well, just didn't look.
Internals meaning if you have something inside that broke, you don't have to look for a BroncoII.
I used the B II column because the tube diameter is the same as the original. 1 1/2" and it fits the old dash mount.
I had to cut the end off and welded a FREE bearing to the end. A local bearing shop I went to helped me find the right bearing.
I told him what it was for and he said "no charge"!

In the middle picture, you see the black bracket? it's the lower column bracket? I made it from a N.O.S. hitch for a 1975 Skidoo Snowmobile.
My name is Jeff and I suffer from Hoarding Disorders....LOL ! I did a little cut, grind, weld action, welded a 1 1/2" muffler clamp to it.
It will all be covered eventually.

 

This is the best Father's Day I guy like us could have!
Father's Day 2011
No Safetyglasses...I stopped everyone...and told them the story about pulling a wire from my brother's eye.
Wasn't long and I was by myself again!
But Nicolle made them come back...

 

Every once in awhile, i got to throw some sheetmetal back on just to see what is what. This is how the front end sits/looks with the F3 front fenders. I am going with F1 front fenders, but don't have them yet.

 

I would love to save this paper oil change sticker.