Can you take pics of the HID low beams against the garage door, then one with high beam (so we can see the light pattern from the 2nd high beam arc)?

 

Then whats the difference between bixenon and xenon HID's? I was told years ago that bixenon were a HID for low beam and halogen for high beam and xenon were the HID bulbs that move for high/low beam.

 

I'd like to see a video driving down the road.

 

Yes sis, they move and are perfectly aimed just like factory.

Here is a video! Clicked em on 3x's

 

Guys correct me if I'm wrong, but there are two ways to get both high and low beams through one bulb.

You can a) have the bulb move a tiny bit to replicate both filaments in your stock incandescent bulb. If you look at it, the two filaments are a few millimeters apart...the HID bulb can move from say straight out to a slight downward angle to mimic that. I personally don't know how comfortable I am with that type of setup - I don't know how the mechanism holds up to vibration over thousands of miles and months of driving.

Or you can b) have two distinct arc areas in the bulb...one sits where the low beam filament would, the other sits near the high beam filament location.

In my mind, less moving parts will always be better as far as reliability...so two arcs IN THEORY should last longer.

The really cheap kits you see will not have either...it will be one arc that usually ties to the low beam and you have to give up your high beam, or get a housing that lets you run HID in a low beam projector and run an incandescent bulb in a high beam reflector.

Personally, THOSE are the ones I typically see ricers run that blind you...the projector beam has no cutoff built in, so the light just goes everywhere.

Your original question...bi xenon is two separate arcs. Xenon is either 1 arc and a housing that moves the bulb or just one arc.

Am I right guys, or am I using the wrong terminology?

 

Oh wow that moves more than I thought they would. Thanks for the vid!

 

says it's password protected...?

EDIT: fixed now...

 

Wait one. Ill make it public. Sorry

Should be good now. I fail

 

NO KIDDING! I thought most just 'tilted' down...didn't expect to see it shoot backwards like that.

So I wonder...when making those and figuring in the engineering...if that solenoid or magnet or whatever it is that makes it move fails...would it fail in the 'low beam' position or 'high beam'? I wonder how they are affected by vibration and such as well.

I've been studying different kits on different boards like this for years, and I'm just now getting confident enough to consider getting them since the technology has finally made them seem pretty reliable and safe.

 

But only for a second...you win seconds later!

 

From what I hear they last just fine as long as you don't get the cheapest one you find. I have even personally rode in a car with them and they did work great and spread the light just like a halogen would from low to high beams. I just never got to see them move, I knew they went back and forth but not that much. Those are the kind I would like to get.

 

I don't think it is going to fail from vibration, the bulb fixture has its own separate lock ring and the gasket is stupid think making that the toughest part of the install. Add that to the factory outer lock ring and you have a double redundancy on the actual bulb. Time will tell, I drive 30K miles a year and almost every day is at night so they will get a ton of use. I mounted the controllers and solenoid on a piece of rubber and then mounted those on the truck to also reduce vibration. I will keep the sylvannia's in the truck in a little padded case just in case to be safe. I am guessing it will fail in the low position because the inner lock ring defaults the bulb forward. Whatever engages be it magnet or whatever pulls it backwards. If it were to fail in the rear position, one simply pulls the outer lock ring off, then the inner lock ring has 2 positions, free and lock. Just move it and you will be good to go. No tools required except 8mm wrench to disconnect battery.

 

Nice...good engineering...

 

Just wanted to clarify that when I said projectors, I mean OEM projectors retrofitted to our OEM housings such as what LightWerks or what bigwhitetruck does. LightWerks for example offers Morimoto, Hella, Acura OEM and Lexus OEM projectors. These are the best projectors out there. I would not blow my money on some cheap, chinese, ebay special projector headlights.

 

Did some reading and stuff and looks like these are very good ones to get. But do you get the 35w or 55w ones? They say the 55w'ers are about 40% brighter than the 35w. I am worried about being TOO bright, anyone have some experience with how bright the 55w are? I am looking for the 4300K 35w color, in the 55w people say the 5000K looks like the 4300K?