Headlights and HID's
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 194
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Here is the complete harness kit. Bulbs are 5K’s and came preinstalled on the sockets. All of the connectors are weather pack sealed. The positive and negative terminate in ring connectors. Took about 1 hour to install including taking pics, although it was over two days since I wanted to do some night shots.
Everything was super simple to install. Ground both controllers and hook up the positive. Comes with a pre-installed 30amp fuse. Attach the relay near the drivers side battery. Preassemble the whole harness and plugged in all the connectors prior to installing. It was easier to match up the colors of the wires since some of them get tucked away and it would be harder to line up the connectors in the correct orientation. Most of the connectors are labeled so it was easier.
The only tricky part is you need to re-use your factory light socket lock rings. Remove from existing lights. Slide new light assembly in and install in housing. It is a very tight seal so be ready to make up a few words since there is also very little room to work with the batteries and such in place.
You have to install these three connectors into the drivers side factory light harness to control the new lights. It took a bit of trial and error but you will finally figured out the right combo. Get it wrong and only 1 high beam will come on or both will come on and not turn off.
After figuring out the right combo, install the new connectors into the supplied connector. The spades lock in and the new plug attaches to the Ford harness perfectly.
Here are a few pics of the non-HID sylvannia bulbs. Fogs are on in all pics.
New HID bulbs installed. I used a mothers headlight restoration kit to clean up the lenses as well.
Here you can see the difference in color between the HID’s and the factory fogs which look very yellow next to the HID’s.
The high beam’s function just like factory with lock and flash to pass.
The light spread is absolutely awesome. A flat, spotless white sheet in front of you.
Thanks to my bil for taking pics and mods while I am away
Everything was super simple to install. Ground both controllers and hook up the positive. Comes with a pre-installed 30amp fuse. Attach the relay near the drivers side battery. Preassemble the whole harness and plugged in all the connectors prior to installing. It was easier to match up the colors of the wires since some of them get tucked away and it would be harder to line up the connectors in the correct orientation. Most of the connectors are labeled so it was easier.
The only tricky part is you need to re-use your factory light socket lock rings. Remove from existing lights. Slide new light assembly in and install in housing. It is a very tight seal so be ready to make up a few words since there is also very little room to work with the batteries and such in place.
You have to install these three connectors into the drivers side factory light harness to control the new lights. It took a bit of trial and error but you will finally figured out the right combo. Get it wrong and only 1 high beam will come on or both will come on and not turn off.
After figuring out the right combo, install the new connectors into the supplied connector. The spades lock in and the new plug attaches to the Ford harness perfectly.
Here are a few pics of the non-HID sylvannia bulbs. Fogs are on in all pics.
New HID bulbs installed. I used a mothers headlight restoration kit to clean up the lenses as well.
Here you can see the difference in color between the HID’s and the factory fogs which look very yellow next to the HID’s.
The high beam’s function just like factory with lock and flash to pass.
The light spread is absolutely awesome. A flat, spotless white sheet in front of you.
Thanks to my bil for taking pics and mods while I am away
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 0
Looking at this pic I just realized that just because I got the dual CCFL halo lights doesn't mean that I don't also need to get some HIDs to put in them. there are bulbs in there but they don't appear to be HID.
Thread Starter
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Mod Specialist ;)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,130
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From: Hanover,PA
Ok Robert here are pic's of where I have my HID ballist mounted. Sorry if pic's are not the greatest.. Got dark and rainy.
Drivers side
Pass. side
They NEED to be grounded
Drivers side
Pass. side
They NEED to be grounded
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,923
Likes: 33
From: Sacramento Area
Thanks! Didn't realize the ballast mounts had to be grounded!
Thread Starter
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Mod Specialist ;)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,130
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From: Hanover,PA
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
Are they all like that? I have a set of HID's and ballasts that a buddy just gave to me because one of the lights wasn't working. I had to cut out a bad section of wire and solder and it works now. I have been doing all the testing of the lights with the ballasts NOT grounded, just the wires hooked up to a test battery.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
Yeah, these didn't have directions. I think it may be different for each manufacturer because some come with double sided tape to just stick them to fender wells and such.
Personally I would think it would be a good idea to ground the boxes no matter what the directions say.
Personally I would think it would be a good idea to ground the boxes no matter what the directions say.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
A bunch of tight wad, squeak while they walk buddies of mine got some of those "cheapest you can find" HID's and very surprisingly they do work fine. Not sure exactly how long they last in people years but for two years now daily driven they are still working like they should.
However even knowing all that I wouldn't get the cheapest one I find either.
However even knowing all that I wouldn't get the cheapest one I find either.