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There are no areas of the original 351 intake you need to worry about.
Port the 351 lower to the size of the upper. Anything that is removed more from the lower than needed isn't a big deal.
I also don't know what you're referring to anyway, the 351 oval is smaller than the 5liter upper everywhere I'm pretty sure. I can check tomorrow if I remember.
There is a little work to do on the upper.
I just took pics of the 351 gasket on the 5liter upper.
It's a problem of there being more material than needed. The webbing between the ports are real thick. I'd check the 5liter gasket to see if it's the same thick webs, and just port and smooth the upper to fit with the lower. Not a big deal in my mind. You're already porting the lower. Go for it!
I'm trying to get motivation, time, money, and another daily driver, so I can put all my parts on the truck. I have a complete upper end and exhaust to install. Now I'm debating on pulling the engine to do rear main, and if I pull it, I may as well do a stroker kit...
Yeah, when I was porting mine, I had a big mess, then I stuck the shop vac on the intake port and it took care of visibility and the mess.
I used the milling machine to do the bulk of the porting.
I have a completed short block with mild 35-512-8 Comp cam on the stand. A pair of mildly worked & completed 96 GT-40 F3ZE-AA heads on the bench waiting. I had to do something to top it off with or the rest would be wasted & the budget was getting stretched. I'll do a thread when it runs.
I wish there was a Dyno local that would work with me on doing some testing.
I'd really like to know gains per mod, so I can tell people. People like real numbers.
I should just swap my intake and see how it is, but there's so much other stuff I want to do.
I want to do the intake, but if I pull intake, I have heads ready to go on, if I pull heads, I have stainless headers and stainless exhaust to go on...
This is 2 years before I wanted to do this & time and cash are not where I ever wanted it to be. But I damaged it so it had to be done.
I'd like to find a dyno in Oct when I go to Crusin' The Coast & get an idea of what it puts out. There are NONE local to me. A rough desktop est done by a fellow FTE'er (thanks again) is in the low 280's hp & low 390's tq.
Looking at procomp gt40 heads vs factory gt40 heads. Any reason not to go with the procomp heads
Procomp has gotten better for sure, but people still complain about inconsistent manufacturing.
Are they iron?
But it's cheap to get a set of heads off a junkyard explorer. And if they looked good, I wouldn't even do a valve job. Just port them a little.
The procomps are aluminum. Was figuring on reworking the heads before putting them on. Money wise I can buy the procomps with warranty and only spend $20 more
The procomps are aluminum. Was figuring on reworking the heads before putting them on. Money wise I can buy the procomps with warranty and only spend $20 more
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.