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Was using scanner to read what timing was then adjusting distributor. I think it is maf but not sure either . Truck is 97 5.8
Did you remove the SPOUT connector? 97' is likely SD, assuming it's in an f250 or f350. Is there a MAF sensor in the intake tube? Is it OBDI (EEC-IV) or OBDII (EEC-V)?
Assuming what the scanner was showing was volts for o2. Where do I start checking to find out why it's running rich. I would have thought with the amount airflow I added it would be lean
Motor is a stock 97 5.8. Mods are pro comp gt40 heads,5.8 lower intake ported to match 5.0 upper intake, 1.7 roller rockers with longer pushrods to center on valve stems, hotter ignition from coil to plugs, shorty headers and new exhaust. Cam is factory roller.
Yes played with timing today. Pulled spout out reved motor by hand and turned distributor , set it by ear but got more power and motor revs better. Feels like I'm just now back to the power I had before doing any upgrades.
You need a timing light to set the timing, period.
The computer has only one way to control the timing of the engine, and that is through the SPOUT wire. The computer also has no way to verify the timing - all of its timing information comes from assuming the distributor is perfectly set to 10* BTDC.
If you unplug the SPOUT connector, the computer has absolutely no control of the timing. The read out on the scanner is just what the computer is trying to command the timing to be.
I'll get timing light, but do I still set to 10 Btdc with the six little tune. Also what should my plugs be gapped at. .043-.046 is stock. Running the hotter ignition should I open them up some.
I would start with 10 degrees and go drive it. Six liter tune up just calls for advancing the base timing as much as you can get away with, without pinging under load. I tried it with plugs at 0.055" and found 11 degrees was all my truck (96' F150) would tolerate.
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