Project.....? I need a nickname!
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: South Jersey
I have a timing light, I'm going to fiddle with it come Monday, supposed to be about 40 degrees again. I'm going to replace that wire and then triple check EVERYTHING. I will keep you guys posted. Thank you again
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,916
Likes: 4
When timing with a vacuum gauge, you don't aim for a specific number like timing with a timing light.
Timing with a vacuum gauge, advance or retard the distributor to achieve the highest vacuum reading in Hg possible. This could be anywhere between 16 to 24 inches of vacuum. Then, once you've reached the vacuum as high as it'll go, retard the timing by 2 inches of Hg (Hg is the periodic name for Mercury) and lock the distributor down.
Then, go take her for a test drive! If she pings or acts up when going up a hill or under heavy acceleration, retard the timing a SLIGHT amount then take it for a test drive. If it doesn't ping, you're set.
Typically, on stock motors you want to time with a timing light. The vast majority of people who build motors typically time with a timing light too, but from what I've heard, a vacuum gauge is the best way to tune a motor, both with ignition timing and fuel/air mixture.
I use a vacuum gauge when tuning carburetors. It's the only way to go IMO.
Timing with a vacuum gauge, advance or retard the distributor to achieve the highest vacuum reading in Hg possible. This could be anywhere between 16 to 24 inches of vacuum. Then, once you've reached the vacuum as high as it'll go, retard the timing by 2 inches of Hg (Hg is the periodic name for Mercury) and lock the distributor down.
Then, go take her for a test drive! If she pings or acts up when going up a hill or under heavy acceleration, retard the timing a SLIGHT amount then take it for a test drive. If it doesn't ping, you're set.
Typically, on stock motors you want to time with a timing light. The vast majority of people who build motors typically time with a timing light too, but from what I've heard, a vacuum gauge is the best way to tune a motor, both with ignition timing and fuel/air mixture.
I use a vacuum gauge when tuning carburetors. It's the only way to go IMO.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: South Jersey
Hey all, Just a quick update. I replaced the burnt up wire. I had a spare Starter Solenoid so i replaced that just in case. Now I have run into another problem......the truck starts for about 2 seconds while i have the key turned, but the second i let go of the key it shuts off. It loses ALL power when i let go of the key. I'm a tad confused.....maybe a fuse? Any input would be wonderful. Thank you gents!
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
At first I thought it was the ballast resistor that drops the voltage when in Run that is causing the engine to die. But, you say you lose all power, and that sounds like an ignition switch problem. There have been a lot of instances of that due to the age of these trucks, so you should easily be able to find some threads about that by doing a search.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I didn't really finish the thought about the ballast resistor, and maybe should. During starting your coil should have battery voltage to it. But, when you release the switch and it goes back to Run the voltage is supposed to go to about 1/2 of battery voltage to keep from burning the ignition up. So, if it is just the ignition that is losing power then that circuit is highly likely to be the culprit. It could be a burned ballast resistor, a wire burned into, or even a connection that got left off.
But, if the whole truck loses power then the ignition switch if probably the culprit.
But, if the whole truck loses power then the ignition switch if probably the culprit.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: South Jersey
OK so i checked to see if it was the ignition switch....it would appear not, with the key in the RUN position all my lights and stuff work. So i guess the ballast resistor? Or maybe something is loose.....holy moly this is why i strongly dislike wiring stuff. Thank you again Gary.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
4x484 (why did you choose such a confusing nick? j/k 
), are you sure you have your wires connected to the solenoid correctly? IOW there are some wires that attach to the *battery* side of the solenoid (not the starter-motor side) these wires supply power to the rest of the truck.
You say you lose all power when you release the key from START and let it spring back to RUN, does that include the dome light & headlights, too?
), are you sure you have your wires connected to the solenoid correctly? IOW there are some wires that attach to the *battery* side of the solenoid (not the starter-motor side) these wires supply power to the rest of the truck.You say you lose all power when you release the key from START and let it spring back to RUN, does that include the dome light & headlights, too?
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: South Jersey
Well, I don't have a domelight and the the headlights are currently disconnected. What I did notice is that when I turn the key to the ON position the "Fasten Seatbelt" light no longer comes on. And I reconnected the solenoid exactly as i disconnected it, i made sure of this by doing each wire one at a time.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
OK, good.
Now, can you please clarify this statement:
Are you trying to say only that the engine stops running when you release the key from START?
Or, are you saying the entire electrical system loses power (which is what I think of when you describe losing ALL power)?
Do you have a voltmeter or test light?
Now, can you please clarify this statement:
Or, are you saying the entire electrical system loses power (which is what I think of when you describe losing ALL power)?
Do you have a voltmeter or test light?