Project.....? I need a nickname!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 997
Likes: 2
From: Rock Valley, IA
On the compression stroke both valves will be closed. On the exhaust stroke the exhaust valve will be opening. If you have someone crank it, or if you turn it by hand you'll see the rocker move (or not).
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,575
Likes: 5
From: Broken Arrow , OK
You can either use a compression gauge or pull the number 1 plug out and put your thumb over the hole. When its on the compression stroke it will blow your thumb off of the hole when you see number one coming back up on the balancer. You could also just pull the dizzy back out of the hole when its on TDc again. Then leave it out while you turn the motor over to the timing mark again. Then re install the dizzy and try to start it again.
If you have everything else right as far as firing order goes then this must be the problem.
The compression gauge will start to show pressure coming up when its approaching TDC of compression stroke.
If you have everything else right as far as firing order goes then this must be the problem.
The compression gauge will start to show pressure coming up when its approaching TDC of compression stroke.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Pull the #1 plug, or all of them to make it easier. Turn the engine over by hand with a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt. When you get within a few degrees of what you think is #1's TDC put your finger over the #1 plug hole and then turn the last few degrees. If it is TDC it will blow your finger off the plug hole.
If it doesn't, turn it over one more time and repeat the above procedure.
If it doesn't, turn it over one more time and repeat the above procedure.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 997
Likes: 2
From: Rock Valley, IA
I always forget about the thumb test. I just look for the rockers to stay in one place while the timing mark comes back around to TDC.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,575
Likes: 5
From: Broken Arrow , OK
Jeremy, thats how I do it when the valve covers are off. There is no need to test for the compression. The valves are either closed or they are not. Sometimes its hard to perform all of the operations by yourself in the thumb method. Two people make it a lot easier.
Funny thing about this is, I just learned this a couple months ago when I built my first engine. Before that I had no idea there were two TDC's. Glad I could help with my new obtained knowledge.
Funny thing about this is, I just learned this a couple months ago when I built my first engine. Before that I had no idea there were two TDC's. Glad I could help with my new obtained knowledge.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Actually, if you are quick with the starter you can use it to spin the engine over TDC. Just get it close and put a jumper on the solenoid to bring it in, briefly. But, make SURE all your appendages are out of the way when you do so as things happen in a hurry. That's why I like the breaker bar approach.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: South Jersey
SHE LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You guys were right, I was 180 out.....I got it back in.....toyed with it a tad and she started right up.....idle is really high though....like 2500-3000 rpms, guess i have to fool with the carb? Thank you guys so much!
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Congrat's! Yeah, the carb may be a lot of the problem, but the fast idle cam may be holding the throttle open. And, if it won't quite idle down where you want after checking all else check to see if you have the vacuum advance plumbed into full manifold vacuum. Some carbs won't let the throttle blades close far enough to support full vacuum at idle. If that's the case you'll have to find ported vacuum on your carb, meaning vacuum that isn't "on" at idle but comes in as you crack the throttle.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: South Jersey
I did a little experiment and disconnected the electric choke, sure enough the truck struggled to start so I think the choke needs to be adjusted a tad. Thank you guys so much again!
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Wait! If the truck was cold and it fired within the first few seconds of cranking then the electric part of the choke had nothing to do with it. The electric bit is a heating coil that brings, or helps bring, the choke off. The bi-metallic spring inside the cap is what brings the choke on.
In other words, how the choke gets heated makes no difference when the engine is cold. It is just that, cold. The spring should be holding the choke closed. It is when the engine is running that either the electricity or engine heat, or both heat the spring and the choke comes off.
In other words, how the choke gets heated makes no difference when the engine is cold. It is just that, cold. The spring should be holding the choke closed. It is when the engine is running that either the electricity or engine heat, or both heat the spring and the choke comes off.