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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 08:11 AM
  #121  
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hadfield4wd
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
It's not about raising the temperature.
More pressure (to a point) will keep coolant from boiling and leaving hot spots in the heads.
It can't do it's job as a vapor.
IIRC my 460 calls for a 14 Psi cap.

But you're not even sure that you have an overheating problem without measuring.
The fan isn't really needed on the highway. There should be enough air flow at those speeds regardless of engine rpm.
What are the ambient temps right now where you live?
It was 100 yesterday. But it got hot when I drove it to my buddies to put the gears in, in March.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 11:45 AM
  #122  
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OK at idle warmed up. These numbers are takem about 1 inch form the exhaust flange.by cylinder Number

1 - 494
2 - 350
3 - 650
4 - 300
5 - 320
6 - 600
7 - 470
8 - 542

t stat housing 170 deg
inlet to water pump on bottom 140 deg

this was after the truck sat for 30 minutes then warmed back up.

13lb radiator cap
 
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 12:07 PM
  #123  
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#2 & 5 seem unusually low.

If the thermostat housing is only 170* that seems odd too. The thermostat should be rated at 193*
 
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 12:11 PM
  #124  
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It did cool down I warmed it back up. So you wouldn't be scared about the 650.

I did have a header leak so I'm letting it cool to tighten the bolts.

And again it is 100 deg out.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 12:15 PM
  #125  
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You didn't take the numbers with the engine running???

650* is NOT hot for an exhaust manifold at all.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 12:19 PM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
You didn't take the numbers with the engine running???

650* is NOT hot for an exhaust manifold at all.

Yes the engine was running. I drove it all morning. Got home cooled for 30 minutes while I started my son staining our shed. went back to the truck and started it up. brought it up to temp and took the readings while running.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 12:25 PM
  #127  
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If you rev it to 2500, how long does it take for the coolant temp gauge to climb towards the 'L' side of normal?

What does the thermostat housing read then?
 
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 12:26 PM
  #128  
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A tube with a lower-than normal temperature can suggest misfiring in that cylinder.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 12:28 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
If you rev it to 2500, how long does it take for the coolant temp gauge to climb towards the 'L' side of normal?

What does the thermostat housing read then?
I've only done it while driving. I'll do it in the driveway.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 01:58 PM
  #130  
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So I just drove it for a while. Here's the kicker. I had a 6" section of radiator shroud missing. I riveted some aluminum into it. I couldn't hardly get it above half.

I climbed the biggest hill around in 3rd at 3000 rpms

then came home and took my readings again.

1 - 480
2 - 500
3 - 700
4 - 664
5 - 640
6 - 660
7 - 507
8 - 655

T stat housing 191
inlet to water pump 178

again ambient is 103
 
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 03:01 PM
  #131  
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Sounds like you may have found your cooling problem. Unfortunately headers cool rapidly at idle, you don't want to see what they look like at speed. My 66 Shelby would heat them red hot or more for about 6" from the port at 60mph (3000rpm). I discovered this when I exploded a heater core then had to drive a bit with the heater out of the car.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 03:14 PM
  #132  
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I hope so. I have a 9 hour round trip ride to knoxville pulling 6500lbs there then 3000lbs home.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 03:50 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by hadfield4wd
My tranny (T19) whines in 2nd and 3rd gear. I took it to a guy today as I really don't know anything about tranny's. He said he is pretty sure it needs bearings.
Change of subject, but did bearings fix the whine?
My T19 also whines more than I like in 3rd, under load. The gears themselves don't show wear.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 05:48 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by Ken Blythen
Change of subject, but did bearings fix the whine?
My T19 also whines more than I like in 3rd, under load. The gears themselves don't show wear.
Well it was a complete rebuild. synchros etc.

I got a kit from novak. It did not include the gears.

Mine was so bad I couldn't talk over 3rd gear. So it's fixed now and is fine.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 07:26 AM
  #135  
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Guys I really appreciate your help with this. I did a 600 mile round trip yesterday in 103 deg heat. At one point my floor boards were 130. I love my new infrared thermometer. We were taking temps of everything.

Anyway more on the heating up issue.

It did great when I was floggin it like a rented mule. Secondaries open etc.

Or at 70 turning 3000.

With my heavy load going down 6500lbs it did very good. With the lighter load it was worse, becasue the engine wasn't working so hard.

It heats up at all the wrong times when you think about motors heating up.

So here is what I've been able to narrow it down to. Over 2500 rpms when I am barely on the throttle not giving it alot of fuel it gets warm. If I let is slow down then punch it and open the secondaries it cools down in less than a minute or so.

I know my motorcycle when it's lean it'll over heat. Cna the same be said for a big block? Should I play with my jetting? As a refresher I have a 600cfm holley 4160 with 68 main jets.

What are your thoughts?
 
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