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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 08:40 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by hadfield4wd
If you check the application on this one I posted it is 68-71.
Okay, I'm officially brain dead.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 08:53 PM
  #92  
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Timing sets

Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
That's one way to go. and an economical one too.

I'm not looking at gaining 2hp in frictional loss from a roller, I'm looking at not having to replace the crap hivo in 60k.

4* of cam retard is probably worth 50 foot pounds and a whole hell of a lot of throttle response.
Considering that my steel gear Morse chain set lasted maybe 25K, and the one in my 90 Lincoln Town Car 5.0 lasted 200K, I'll go roller chain any day. Granted the one in the 460 hadn't jumped, it had just regained it's 4 degree retard.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 08:59 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Okay, I'm officially brain dead.
Good.

Well not that you're brain dead, but that it is right. As this is my Sunday project.

I ordered a complete gasket set that should be at the local Oreilly's tomorrow morning.

I want to replace my pan gasket as well, and it doesn't look like I can get the pan out without lifting the motor.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 09:12 PM
  #94  
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No you can't and you have to take at least one if not both mounts off the block in order to get it down at all. Be sure you either remove the fan and shroud, or what may work for you, unbolt the radiator so the hoses will lift it up and not break anything.

When I took mine off, I had to cut the exhaust apart, raise the engine as high as I could get it and block it up on the exhaust manifolds. Once the pan is loose, you have to take off the pump strainer and oil pump to get it out. I don't envy you a bit.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 09:22 PM
  #95  
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Do I have to take the pan off to get to the timing chain? If not I might leave it for another day. I'm not even sure it's leaking. The entire block has oil on it. Maybe I'll go from the top down and hope the pan gasket is fine.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 10:07 PM
  #96  
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Timing cover

Originally Posted by hadfield4wd
Do I have to take the pan off to get to the timing chain? If not I might leave it for another day. I'm not even sure it's leaking. The entire block has oil on it. Maybe I'll go from the top down and hope the pan gasket is fine.
No, if you get one of the timing cover sets by itself it comes with two stub pieces of pan gasket and the front rubber seal.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 08:01 AM
  #97  
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Wow what a long day yesterday. I just need to time get it to TDC and put the distrubutor in.

Everything else is buttoned up. New fuel filter etc. My gasket kit had the stubs. So I feel confident with that.I did break off a bolt in the timing cover which is standard.

The big setback was we were putting everything on and one of the studs for the coil, must have been on by half thread. Knocked it and yep went right down the hole where the distributor goes. For some reason we had pulled the rag out. We fished with the magnet however we couldn't get it so we had to pull the timing cover and waterpump back off and start fishing with the magnet in the pan. We did finally get it out. We figure we lost about 2 hours doing this.

Gonna fire it later today.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 07:45 PM
  #98  
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Pretty happy with it so far. Tons more power and doesn't fall flat at 3k like it did before. I still have some adjusting to do, but it goes for gears and tranny rebuild in a day or so.

rev - YouTube
 
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 07:50 PM
  #99  
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NICE!

Congratulations.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 08:10 PM
  #100  
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Sounds pretty good even though you're out of gas.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2012 | 11:02 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by Sw1tchfoot
Sounds pretty good even though you're out of gas.
Actually it's full. I think the float has a hole in it. Last time I had the pickup out I heard it sloshing. I just rolled the dice to see if it would work. It did not. So I have to pick up a float and swap it in what I can't find anything else I feel like doing.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 10:24 AM
  #102  
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So this thing is running great. It's at my buddy's shop getting a tranny rebuild and 3.73 gears now. I have a question. With my mods where do you think my torque rating is?

Stock was 245hp/385tq

Based on the HP chart on 460 ford I'm guessing I'm in the 275-325 range. Mine doesn't follow there specs they don't have headers until the 325 range and they have larger carbs.

But what about torque. This is used for towing not racing or tractor pulling.

Summary of build:

Stock block/heads (3 angle valve job)
Hedman Headers Hedman Hedders 89340 - Hedman Street Hedders - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Summit 3500 cam Summit Racing SUM-3500 - Summit Racing® Camshafts - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Straight up timing chain
Performer intake
Holley 600cfm carb

My SOTP (Seat Of The Pants) dyno tells me this motor has tons more power.

So what do you guys think?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 12:28 PM
  #103  
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Sounds nice! Even my old stock other than timing chain 460 sounded pretty good, the EFI sounds real good. I don't have a camera phone so I can't do the same. 460s respond real well to better breathing. If you need a gas tank float, I think I have a couple of good spares.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 01:54 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by hadfield4wd
But what about torque? This is used for towing not racing or tractor pulling.

So what do you guys think?
I don't think I was real clear on my question. So I'll try to restate it clearly.

What do you guys think my torque numbers are?

Originally Posted by 85lebaront2
If you need a gas tank float, I think I have a couple of good spares.
I'll let you know. My local Oreilly's guy is real good. Thanks.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 07:12 PM
  #105  
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That's a hard item to determine SOTP, best test used to be 40-60 in high gear. You would have needed a before and after test though.
 
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