Project: Tow Tool
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 442
Likes: 1
From: Roanoke, VA
So I drove it today. Did fine as usual. I pulled the plugs and I'm a little rich so I'll rejet down one size to see what that does.
I do have 1 things.
1) My tranny (T19) whines in 2nd and 3rd gear. I took it to a guy today as I really don't know anything about tranny's. He said he is pretty sure it needs bearings. He also said based on my mechanical ability he didn't think I'd have much of a problem doing it my self. What do you guys think? How hard is it to put a bearing kit in a T19?
2) My blower for my heater doesn't work. The fuse keeps blowing. Should I just put a new blower on or is there something else that could cause this? When I leave it unplugged it doesn't blow.
thanks.
I do have 1 things.
1) My tranny (T19) whines in 2nd and 3rd gear. I took it to a guy today as I really don't know anything about tranny's. He said he is pretty sure it needs bearings. He also said based on my mechanical ability he didn't think I'd have much of a problem doing it my self. What do you guys think? How hard is it to put a bearing kit in a T19?
2) My blower for my heater doesn't work. The fuse keeps blowing. Should I just put a new blower on or is there something else that could cause this? When I leave it unplugged it doesn't blow.
thanks.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 997
Likes: 2
From: Rock Valley, IA
1) I think the T-19s are fairly straightforward but I'll let some others speak on that.
2) If your blower motor is weak or blocked for some reason it may be taking too much of a draw and blowing your fuses. I would replace it. They're fairly inexpensive and easy to replace. Just make sure you know if your have factory AC or dealer installed (or no AC at all). There is a difference between the two as one spins counterclockwise (factory AC) or clockwise (Dealer installed). If I have these backwards I'm sure someone will correct me.
2) If your blower motor is weak or blocked for some reason it may be taking too much of a draw and blowing your fuses. I would replace it. They're fairly inexpensive and easy to replace. Just make sure you know if your have factory AC or dealer installed (or no AC at all). There is a difference between the two as one spins counterclockwise (factory AC) or clockwise (Dealer installed). If I have these backwards I'm sure someone will correct me.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 442
Likes: 1
From: Roanoke, VA
I put a new blower in. Works great now I have heat.
So I’ve been having some fueling issues. First when the front tank got below half it was sucking air into the line. I could see bubbles in the filter. Also I needed to drop and coat both tanks so I did that and found 2 pinhole leaks that were causing the bubbles. I also couldn’t get fuel in the tank. I was painfully slow. I had to hold the nozzle as slow as it would go. No even to the first click. So I raised the fillers. I had to make a filler piece to cover the big hole. In addition to cut out the sides. They do stick up however I can at least put the pump on the slowest click and not get gas all over my feet when the tanks are full. In addition I added some vent lines that come up the neck. The end result is better. I can only fill up on the slowest but that much better than before. Here are pictures of the new fillers.
Before:
After:
So I’ve been having some fueling issues. First when the front tank got below half it was sucking air into the line. I could see bubbles in the filter. Also I needed to drop and coat both tanks so I did that and found 2 pinhole leaks that were causing the bubbles. I also couldn’t get fuel in the tank. I was painfully slow. I had to hold the nozzle as slow as it would go. No even to the first click. So I raised the fillers. I had to make a filler piece to cover the big hole. In addition to cut out the sides. They do stick up however I can at least put the pump on the slowest click and not get gas all over my feet when the tanks are full. In addition I added some vent lines that come up the neck. The end result is better. I can only fill up on the slowest but that much better than before. Here are pictures of the new fillers.
Before:
After:
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 442
Likes: 1
From: Roanoke, VA
So I will have a little jingle in a couple weeks. So I'll be ordering 3.54 gears and a tranny rebuild kit.
I have a question in regards to engine mods. I'm going to keep the stock heads. I already have headers.
Carb
Holley 0-80452 - Holley Model 4160 Adjustable Float Carburetors - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Cam
Summit Racing SUM-3500 - Summit Racing® Camshafts - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Timing set
Summit Racing SUM-G6537 - Summit Racing® Standard Timing Sets - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Which manifold? Why?
Edelbrock
Edelbrock 2166 - Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifolds - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Weiand
Weiand 8012 - Weiand Stealth Intake Manifolds - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Thanks for the assistance.
I have a question in regards to engine mods. I'm going to keep the stock heads. I already have headers.
Carb
Holley 0-80452 - Holley Model 4160 Adjustable Float Carburetors - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Cam
Summit Racing SUM-3500 - Summit Racing® Camshafts - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Timing set
Summit Racing SUM-G6537 - Summit Racing® Standard Timing Sets - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Which manifold? Why?
Edelbrock
Edelbrock 2166 - Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifolds - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Weiand
Weiand 8012 - Weiand Stealth Intake Manifolds - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Thanks for the assistance.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Glad to see you're going for the 0-8045X that has adjustable floats.
I've used that cam and it works okay with stock springs.
A little short of breath up top though.
It would depend on your final drive ratio, and how fast you intend to travel on the highway.
Get a timing set for pre 1970, or buy one that has multiple key ways to get rid of the retarded cam timing of emissions era engines.
I went with w/ a Cloyes 9-1122 street true double roller for $42.95
The Stealth has larger volume runners than the Performer.
Some have said that it works fine with their towing builds and an R/V cam.
I have a dual 2 1/2" inlet school bus muffler with a single 3" outlet.
I'm using the Performer myself, and think the increased velocity may help responsiveness at low RPM's but have not made any direct comparisons.
Just my 2c
I've used that cam and it works okay with stock springs.
A little short of breath up top though.
It would depend on your final drive ratio, and how fast you intend to travel on the highway.
Get a timing set for pre 1970, or buy one that has multiple key ways to get rid of the retarded cam timing of emissions era engines.
I went with w/ a Cloyes 9-1122 street true double roller for $42.95
The Stealth has larger volume runners than the Performer.
Some have said that it works fine with their towing builds and an R/V cam.
I have a dual 2 1/2" inlet school bus muffler with a single 3" outlet.
I'm using the Performer myself, and think the increased velocity may help responsiveness at low RPM's but have not made any direct comparisons.
Just my 2c
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 442
Likes: 1
From: Roanoke, VA
So is that Cam an RV cam?
What other cam would you recommend?
I will be running 3.54 gears no OD and 70 on the highway.
60 mph gets 2249rpm
65 mph gets 2437rpm
70 mph gets 2624rpm
What other cam would you recommend?
I will be running 3.54 gears no OD and 70 on the highway.
60 mph gets 2249rpm
65 mph gets 2437rpm
70 mph gets 2624rpm
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
Ok, I like Tow Tool. I have an 86 same truck except it came C6 and 3.55 gears. As far as puling power and fuel economy, I pull a 30ft 5th wheel and the only issue I ever had was once going to a Good Sam rally in NC, we were running into a 35mph head wind doing 60-65 (trying to keep up with the German lady in the lead motorhome) I got 6.5mpg, Going up over 7 mountains grade on rt 322w in PA, I was at 37mph in 2nd. The trailer and truck together with just me in it are 16,120lbs. My normal empty gas mileage before the crap we have now was right at 10mpg. As far as power, I can light all 4 rear tires if I stomp it, probably more now with the E4OD being wide ratio.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
The 3500 is advertised as a "R/V cam" and I think it fits your purposes.
The 3501 is advertised as a "Towing cam" (but it has just a little too much lift for me to be comfortable with an otherwise stock valvetrain.)
You should be fine on the highway.
My truck has 4.10's and with stock size tires I'd be looking at 3K=60 mph!
With my old T-19 that was 1-1 in top gear.
The ZF5 I have now is much more relaxed on the highway and doesn't have as deep a first gear.
Cool project by the way...
I hope it gives you a lot of satisfaction.
You've really done a great job with it!
The 3501 is advertised as a "Towing cam" (but it has just a little too much lift for me to be comfortable with an otherwise stock valvetrain.)
You should be fine on the highway.
My truck has 4.10's and with stock size tires I'd be looking at 3K=60 mph!
With my old T-19 that was 1-1 in top gear.
The ZF5 I have now is much more relaxed on the highway and doesn't have as deep a first gear.
I hope it gives you a lot of satisfaction.
You've really done a great job with it!
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Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
Item for you, if you can find some filler necks and hoses, for what you have done they would not need to be for a dually, from an 87-96 truck and knock the vent tube retainers out of the tank opening it will fill a lot better. Ford went to a single line filler and vent in 1980 by putting a 1" plastic tube up the middle of the filler. The dually tanks are a royal pain to fill due to the length of the filler. In 1987, they reversed the design, a 1 1/4" plastic tube carrying the fuel and the hose becoming the vent. The 87 up tube extends about 2" beyond the end of the hose so fuel doesn't splash up the vent. The older system, the fuel ran right over the end of the vent tube and the closer to full, the worse it gets.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 442
Likes: 1
From: Roanoke, VA
Item for you, if you can find some filler necks and hoses, for what you have done they would not need to be for a dually, from an 87-96 truck and knock the vent tube retainers out of the tank opening it will fill a lot better. Ford went to a single line filler and vent in 1980 by putting a 1" plastic tube up the middle of the filler. The dually tanks are a royal pain to fill due to the length of the filler. In 1987, they reversed the design, a 1 1/4" plastic tube carrying the fuel and the hose becoming the vent. The 87 up tube extends about 2" beyond the end of the hose so fuel doesn't splash up the vent. The older system, the fuel ran right over the end of the vent tube and the closer to full, the worse it gets.
Also anybody know what speedo gear I have and which one I should go to? Going from 4.11 to 3.54.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
The gears are all color coded by tooth count, and some come with right hand teeth //// others left \\\\. Depending on the application i.e. the mesh of the driven gear.
There's a thread about this currently, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...o-problem.html
Bill (NumberDummy) seems to have a good handle on this but will likely tell you he needs more info.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 442
Likes: 1
From: Roanoke, VA
So I've been doing some research. What do you guys think? I'm wondering if 3.54's are too low. Yes I wan to cruise at 70, however there will be plenty of time where the hils, roads dictate slower. So here are my numbers.
3.54 Gears 3.73 4.11
50mph 1874rpm 1975rpm 2176rpm
60mph 2249rpm 2370rpm 2611rpm
70mph 2624rpm 2765rpm 3047rpm
So do you think? 3.54's vs 3.73
3.54 Gears 3.73 4.11
50mph 1874rpm 1975rpm 2176rpm
60mph 2249rpm 2370rpm 2611rpm
70mph 2624rpm 2765rpm 3047rpm
So do you think? 3.54's vs 3.73
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I don't think there's a lot of difference between the two (150rpm at 70mph)
My truck is a different build than yours but IIRC the 3500 cam pulls very strong at 3000 rpm.
I think the bigger question is how often will you be pulling near maximum weight and the slightly lower 1st and closer shifts of the 3.73 will be to your advantage.
My truck is a different build than yours but IIRC the 3500 cam pulls very strong at 3000 rpm.
I think the bigger question is how often will you be pulling near maximum weight and the slightly lower 1st and closer shifts of the 3.73 will be to your advantage.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 442
Likes: 1
From: Roanoke, VA
Everytime I pull it will be at least 7500lb plus the 5500lb truck. More than half the time add the dirt bikes and gear. This truck is very specifically built to pull this load.