Quick help needed: front clip frame bolts
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Quick help needed: front clip frame bolts
Okay, so I'm in a bit of a sticky situtation...
It seems that my front clip frame bolts are 9/16", but my nuts are 22mm...
I went out and purchased a 22mm deep socket so that I could fit it over the extra length of the bolt sticking out the bottom of the frame, but now I can't fit both the deep socket and swing handle between the C shape of the frame to get at the nut!!!
How the heck do you undo the front clip if a deep socket is too big to fit in the frame, but a regular socket is too short to reach the nut?!
What have you guys done in the past to get your front clip off? I'm running out of options, except for using a cutting wheel on that extra length of the bolt that's passed the nut!
It seems that my front clip frame bolts are 9/16", but my nuts are 22mm...
I went out and purchased a 22mm deep socket so that I could fit it over the extra length of the bolt sticking out the bottom of the frame, but now I can't fit both the deep socket and swing handle between the C shape of the frame to get at the nut!!!
How the heck do you undo the front clip if a deep socket is too big to fit in the frame, but a regular socket is too short to reach the nut?!
What have you guys done in the past to get your front clip off? I'm running out of options, except for using a cutting wheel on that extra length of the bolt that's passed the nut!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Near St. Joseph,MO
If you are talking about the bolts holding the core support to the frame, I just put a wrench on the bottom and an impact on the top (or ratchet). I've done two recently like this, though the one I did today didn't even need anything on the bottom, the bushing is siezed up so it held the nut by itself.
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I had to use my impact gun to remove those bolts, if I remember right one of them made it halfway thru the rusted threads before it snapped.
But that was the easy part, getting those mounts seperated was the fun part.
Josh
But that was the easy part, getting those mounts seperated was the fun part.
Josh
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Joined: Mar 2011
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From: spotsy va
I t might make it a lil easier if u soak it down really good w some pb blaster.Then like everyone else said a box wrench on the bottom and a good impact or rachet.If the bolts break once u pull the core support take a big hammer n drive the 2 halves apart on the bushing it will probally need new bushings anyway good luck man
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Joined: Aug 2011
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Cut Cut Cut
Had to cut one off the front of my 76 due to the rust having seized it up. I used a wood chisel 1/4th inch to cut out the bushing to give me more room to work. LMC is about the only place that I have found that has replacement parts for this if anybody out there knows of a cheaper place please say so.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan
So i ended up sawing off the bottom part of the original bolt on each side that has no threads on it, so that I could get an original sized (not deep) socket on... why the bolts are that long in a frame that's 6-7 inches deep is beyond me.
Ford wasn't thinking when they mounted the front clip (or the rest of the body as far as I know).
So I tried impacting from the top... but that didn't pan out...
So I held the top while I had a friend ratchet wrench the bottom portion, and we got them both off by hand. Man that took a lot of work on both sides haha.
How the heck do I get those mounts with the bushings off? It almost seems that they're welded to the frame... yuk...
Ford wasn't thinking when they mounted the front clip (or the rest of the body as far as I know).
So I tried impacting from the top... but that didn't pan out...
So I held the top while I had a friend ratchet wrench the bottom portion, and we got them both off by hand. Man that took a lot of work on both sides haha.
How the heck do I get those mounts with the bushings off? It almost seems that they're welded to the frame... yuk...
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Like its been said and done, try it with some extensions and a breaker bar from the top down, with a wrench on the bottom nut.
It will either strip or break, then sawzall it and the rubber spacer. If you cut it from right on top the frame rail from inside the fenderwell, you might be able to reuse the rubber spacers?
I tried the PB blasted trick, 1/2 dv sockets w/pipe cheater, they will snap. ENJOY.
It will either strip or break, then sawzall it and the rubber spacer. If you cut it from right on top the frame rail from inside the fenderwell, you might be able to reuse the rubber spacers?
I tried the PB blasted trick, 1/2 dv sockets w/pipe cheater, they will snap. ENJOY.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
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From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Like its been said and done, try it with some extensions and a breaker bar from the top down, with a wrench on the bottom nut.
It will either strip or break, then sawzall it and the rubber spacer. If you cut it from right on top the frame rail from inside the fenderwell, you might be able to reuse the rubber spacers?
I tried the PB blasted trick, 1/2 dv sockets w/pipe cheater, they will snap. ENJOY.
It will either strip or break, then sawzall it and the rubber spacer. If you cut it from right on top the frame rail from inside the fenderwell, you might be able to reuse the rubber spacers?
I tried the PB blasted trick, 1/2 dv sockets w/pipe cheater, they will snap. ENJOY.
Now I need to know how to get those damn rubber bushings and nut/washer combinations off...
From what I understood, I need to take a sawzall to the top portion of the rubber mount that's touching the very top of the frame.
Is that Correct?
Or do I need to take the bottom portion, on the underside of the top part of the frame off? Or does it matter?
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
Since you are hopefully replacing all cab mount bushings, take a sawzall to what ever part (top or bottom) you can access easily.
I do not know, nor have I ever heard of a way to get them off with out destroying them in the process??
Sawzall is way better than a torch....smoke, fire and a general pita way to go.
Breaker bar and cheater pipe and snap off the other two, seems the easy route there?
I do not know, nor have I ever heard of a way to get them off with out destroying them in the process??
Sawzall is way better than a torch....smoke, fire and a general pita way to go.
Breaker bar and cheater pipe and snap off the other two, seems the easy route there?
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 4,436
Likes: 19
From: Regina, Saskatchewan
Since you are hopefully replacing all cab mount bushings, take a sawzall to what ever part (top or bottom) you can access easily.
I do not know, nor have I ever heard of a way to get them off with out destroying them in the process??
Sawzall is way better than a torch....smoke, fire and a general pita way to go.
Breaker bar and cheater pipe and snap off the other two, seems the easy route there?
I do not know, nor have I ever heard of a way to get them off with out destroying them in the process??
Sawzall is way better than a torch....smoke, fire and a general pita way to go.
Breaker bar and cheater pipe and snap off the other two, seems the easy route there?
And that sucks to hear that the only way I can get those mounts off is with a sawzall or torch (pita way to go, I know... but it would work), cause I need to re-mount my front clip and NEW cab tonight... but some of those mounts still have bolts in them... and I never purchased new mounting bushings yet! Oh well, she's getting stored for the next 9 months anyways... Looks like I'll be running with 3 of six mounts.
Better bolt everything up REALLY well haha. That, and not go on any inclines towards my drivers side.
Thanks for the help guys, but it looks like I'm SOL for now with the mounting stuff... till next year...
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