Impact Wrench Question
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
Likes: 4
From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Impact Wrench Question
Sorry...I don't know a better place to put this, so I come to you smart guys.
So I'm having GREAT fun getting some of my exhaust bolts off.
The two that hold the "rear" of the exhaust to the pipe right after the cat are rusted beyond belief. I've sprayed them with every penetrating product I can imagine, no dice. Not enough space for a hack saw, not a big enough wheel for the Dremel to cut.
Anyways, a buddy of mine as an impact wrench, 385 ft lbs, which I imagine would be enough. The thing is, being that it's a nut and bolt setup, what would you guys put on the other side the impact wrench isn't on? A wrench that is jammed against the frame seems dangerous. And holding it seems like such a great idea...
Ideas? Thanks.
So I'm having GREAT fun getting some of my exhaust bolts off.
The two that hold the "rear" of the exhaust to the pipe right after the cat are rusted beyond belief. I've sprayed them with every penetrating product I can imagine, no dice. Not enough space for a hack saw, not a big enough wheel for the Dremel to cut.Anyways, a buddy of mine as an impact wrench, 385 ft lbs, which I imagine would be enough. The thing is, being that it's a nut and bolt setup, what would you guys put on the other side the impact wrench isn't on? A wrench that is jammed against the frame seems dangerous. And holding it seems like such a great idea...
Ideas? Thanks.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 0
If they are rusted that much there is little chance that you will be reusing the bolt/nut combo. It sounds like you are looking to break them and just replace? If this is the case, just try putting the impact on whichever side is easiest to get to and turn the wrench all the way up and hit it a couple quick bursts. If this makes the assembly spin, then try putting a wrench on the other side against the frame, I know it doesnt sound the best, but when you run out of ideas and you can't get a torch in there you gotta go with what works.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
Wrench against the frame is about the only real option if you absolutely must wrench them off.
Personally, I refuse to even try wrenching those out. My first tool of choice removing rusted exhaust bolts is the torch. Then I just replace the bolts. Exhaust fasteners are not critical OR expensive.
Just watch out where the slag goes...
Personally, I refuse to even try wrenching those out. My first tool of choice removing rusted exhaust bolts is the torch. Then I just replace the bolts. Exhaust fasteners are not critical OR expensive.
Just watch out where the slag goes...
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
From: Rainier, OR
Used the wrench many times in that manner... The torch is the easiest and quickest if you have access to one. If not the next choice would be a nut buster or whatever their called, they have a chisel like thing that you put against the flat and it splits the nut... maybe its called a nut splitter....
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,232
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They are called nut splitters, but in my experience I have never got them to actually break all the way through, they just kinda chew it up to the point where I grab the torch or the air hammer with a cold chiesel and break them off.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 76
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From: Ontario, Canada
I've actually managed to get one of those silly things to do as advertised once...
On a brand-new nut from Home Despot. Unknown grade, unknown metalurgy, cheap. Nut had stripped the threads on the equally crappy bolt from the same source. The nut sort of shattered when I tightened the splitter far enough.
This same method doesn't work so well on well rusted REAL hardware.
I tend to go along with wicky here. Use the splitter to mangle the nut, then beat it to death.
If you expect to work on rusty parts a lot, do yourself a favour & get torches. Even those little cheapy kits with the baby bottles work well for this kind of application. They're no good for serious work, but great as a quick & effective heat source.
On a brand-new nut from Home Despot. Unknown grade, unknown metalurgy, cheap. Nut had stripped the threads on the equally crappy bolt from the same source. The nut sort of shattered when I tightened the splitter far enough.
This same method doesn't work so well on well rusted REAL hardware.
I tend to go along with wicky here. Use the splitter to mangle the nut, then beat it to death.
If you expect to work on rusty parts a lot, do yourself a favour & get torches. Even those little cheapy kits with the baby bottles work well for this kind of application. They're no good for serious work, but great as a quick & effective heat source.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 800
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, canada
First choice would be a cutting torch. Air chisel would be second. A sharp air chisel will slice it off like butter.
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 299
Likes: 2
From: Marryville, Tennessee
If it's that rusted, I would back the nut side with a wrench against the frame and "tighten" it till it snapped it off. Sounds easy to say torch or use a air hammer to do the cutting, but if you dont have those kind of tools or access to those tools then you have to use what ever you have available. Breaking the fastener is actually alot easier then trying to loosen it when they are that old and rusty.
Last edited by mason55; Sep 6, 2006 at 10:26 PM.
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
Actually...
A plumbers torch can be useful.
Heat the nut up as hot as the torch can get it, then jam a big candle against the end of it. The wax will work its way into the threads and often break loose an otherwise stuck nut. This works best on parts that aren't half rusted away tho.
A plumbers torch can be useful.
Heat the nut up as hot as the torch can get it, then jam a big candle against the end of it. The wax will work its way into the threads and often break loose an otherwise stuck nut. This works best on parts that aren't half rusted away tho.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,232
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I suggested the air hammer and torch as options if you don't feel comfortable with the wrench against the frame/air hammer thing. And like was stated earlier, back it against the frame and then tighten with the air hammer, should just snap off like a toothpick. Otherwise see if you can beg/borrow/steal a torch set up or an air hammer for an afternoon. The wax trick works on frozen nuts/bolts if they aren't incredibly rusted, which I have a feeling these are.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,476
Likes: 224
From: Frequently frozen MN
How close can you get that torch to the gas tank? I've heard that Midas muffler used to lose shops from time to time due to explosions -- but that was a while back. I imagine there are some pretty good guidelines available now.
I agree on the nut buster. Read about them for years, then bought an older ranger that had a couple of keyed lug nuts. Trotted over to Sears, and got a brand new 'heavy duty' nut buster. Did a little damage to the nut, and a lot to the tool. Will eventually see if Sears will cough up another one.
Worst part of that story is that after I DID get them off, I found the key in the ashtray ( checked everywhere else!)
ford2go
I agree on the nut buster. Read about them for years, then bought an older ranger that had a couple of keyed lug nuts. Trotted over to Sears, and got a brand new 'heavy duty' nut buster. Did a little damage to the nut, and a lot to the tool. Will eventually see if Sears will cough up another one.
Worst part of that story is that after I DID get them off, I found the key in the ashtray ( checked everywhere else!)
ford2go
