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Has any one ever tried to replace the pitman arm seal in their gearbox without removing the gearbox? I have never worked on a gearbox and in my research have not heard of doing it this way until I read it in a forum by a fellow new-be. Here is the post from Whitesabbathica9 on 01-28-2010. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ld-able-2.html “I recently had the same issue with my F150. Upon vast research, I found a pretty quick and easy way to replace the pitman arm seal without removing the entire gearbox, just using the PS pump itself...
1.) Remove pitman arm (please be careful, when mine came off it flew across the room)
2.) remove snap-ring
3.) with some PS fluid in reservoir, and a drip pan and lots of rags (the more the better) underneath, turn on engine and turn steering wheel back and forth to left- and right-lock until seal releases
You should feel/hear when the seal comes out (it should be in the drip pan), then you can shut off the engine and proceed to install the new one.
My father-in-law owns his own mechanic shop and thought it would never work! Hope someone else can use this advice and save themselves a lot of work.”
I have a 1977 F-100 with a 302.
Thanks James
Last edited by ljcandme; Aug 18, 2011 at 02:06 PM.
Reason: spelling
I always just rebuild them when they start leaking. I always get a rebuild kit and a lower seal kit. Most kits at least what I get don't have the 2 bottom seals. They give you just one and a spacer to move the seal to a new location on the shaft and they always leak done that way just a bad idea from them. If the shaft is worn that bad just get another one.
I always just rebuild them when they start leaking. I always get a rebuild kit and a lower seal kit. Most kits at least what I get don't have the 2 bottom seals. They give you just one and a spacer to move the seal to a new location on the shaft and they always leak done that way just a bad idea from them. If the shaft is worn that bad just get another one.
Thanks for responding. I was hoping to try and do a quick seal on the bottom end. I was in a car accident in June and have not been back to work yet, so money is tight. I plan on putting a Red Head in after I’m able to return to work. It will be a daily driver for awhile. Would you also Know if I could use a Snap On puller set that I have used on pulleys and dampeners to pull the pitmen arm?
Thanks,
James
There is no such thing as a Pitman Arm Seal. The seal y'all are speaking of...is the sector shaft seal. The Pitman Arm attaches to the sector shaft.
With Ford integral P/S, the sector shaft seal comes in the sector shaft seal kit.
There are two kits w/Ford integral P/S: D7AZ-3E501-B .. Sector Shaft Seal Kit & F3AZ-3E502-A .. Input Shaft Seal Kit.
These kits are available from Ford and every autoparts store since they fit myriad 1965/2002 FoMoCo vehicles.
Thanks ND,
I pick up a seal kit from Napa the other day that I thought was correct but it says it is for an input shaft (NPS 7218).
I will look up the ford numbers and see where I can pick one up. I appreciate you speaking up, and I seem to read a lot of your post, which have helped me a number of times. Thanks for the help.
Thanks ND,
I pick up a seal kit from Napa the other day that I thought was correct but it says it is for an input shaft (NPS 7218).
I will look up the ford numbers and see where I can pick one up.
I'll save you the trouble: D7AZ-3E501-B
Berge Ford in Mesa has ONE / Chapman Ford in Scottsdale has TWO / Don Sanderson Ford in Glendale has ONE
The MSRP of this seal kit is: $24.18. If a "snake" quotes you a higher price, tell 'em you can buy it online for $17.41 (from FTE sponsor PartsGuyEd.com-Horizon Ford in Seattle).
You'll have to pay shipping charges, but there is no tax if an item is purchased in another state, then shipped to you.
Berge Ford in Mesa has ONE / Chapman Ford in Scottsdale has TWO / Don Sanderson Ford in Glendale has ONE
The MSRP of this seal kit is: $24.18. If a "snake" quotes you a higher price, tell 'em you can buy it online for $17.41 (from FTE sponsor PartsGuyEd.com-Horizon Ford in Seattle).
You'll have to pay shipping charges, but there is no tax if an item is purchased in another state, then shipped to you.
Thanks again ND,
I went over to Berge Ford and when the guy asked for a year and vehicle, I told him I have a part number. He then asked again for a year and when I told him 77 he said “1977 no”. I said I have a part number again and he said no again and said they only go back to 1980. I told him it’s the same part for a P/S gear box up too 2000. I then gave him the number and he went to find the part. When he “The Snake” returned he said that will be $30.80. I said the MSRP is $24.18. He responded oh you must have been quoted the list price. I have been going to Berge Ford for years and this is the first time I felt like he could care less about me and my 77 F100.
Thanks, James
When he “The Snake” returned he said that will be $30.80. I said the MSRP is $24.18. He responded oh you must have been quoted the list price.
Yeah, a lot of (most?) people don't realize dealers can charge ANYTHING they want for parts. MSRP is just that, manufacturers SUGGESTED list price. It's actually against federal law for a manufacturer to require a dealer to sell something at a set price (this is price fixing).
Most dealers go with list or maybe a little off, some (partsguyed) give decent discounts to the average guy. Some dealers have very high overhead and "jack up" the prices to help offset the cost of doing business. And then there are some that want to rip off the customer.
That's why it pays to shop around.
Just my 2 cents.
[quote=mikeo0o0o0;10716159]Yeah, a lot of (most?) people don't realize dealers can charge ANYTHING they want for parts.
Thanks for jumping in Mike!
I was amazed at how quick he changed his price when I mentioned the MSRP. I appreciation you letting me in on this little hidden secret.
Well I did it; I changed the sector shaft seal at the bottom side of the gearbox (it is where the pitmen arm attaches to the gearbox). I took pictures to share. Let me say it is not easy but it is doable.
I did it the way I saw it in one of the forms I read. I was a little apprehensive about doing it this way at first but it does work.
I lifted the truck and used jack stand to lift it up about 6 inches. I was doing it on my back. After you have the pitmen arm removed you’ll need to get some dry wall screws and cut the point off.
Ok, I'm not sure how to post pictures here so I made an album with the pictures. I'm sorry to say the pictures are in backwards order. Good luck and let me know if this helps anyone.