Tightening Ignition Switch

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Sep 18, 2011 | 11:06 PM

#31

pgr380

Thread Starter

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Joined: Oct 2010

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Ig Switch Follow Up

Finally got around to pulling the ig switch. Couldn't have done it w/o the excellent instructions you guys posted.
Anyway, I found all pieces to be in order, except that one of the posts on the switch itself was broken. Bought a new switch and installed it; works fine, except that the whole assembly (bezel and lock cylinder) still rotates, although not as easily as before. I was careful to make sure that the 3 tabs on the bell shaped thingy engaged the slots in the dash. Any idea what else I can do to keep it from rotating?
BTW, the switch I got from NAPA had 4 terminals instead of the 3 on the original switch. What is the additional for?

Sep 19, 2011 | 03:22 PM

#32

B-2

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Joined: Jun 2008

Posts: 74

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From: Conroe,TX

bezel

I am still looking for a ign. bezel I really just need the bezel I will buy a new switch unless it has a good working one with the bezel. So if anyone has one laying around that they want to sell let me know. I am still checking the truck over after buying it, the drive train is all new but they just never used lock tight on any thing they put in. So I am taking everything apart to put lock tight on the bolts. It has a rebuilt 460 with Alum. heads I just never got the info that he told me he had. The motor runs great it was done by a shop, so I lucked out there. Just need a bezel so I can take out the AutoZone switch, & put in the right one.
Thanks Bill

Sep 19, 2011 | 05:22 PM

#33

Bill W

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Joined: Jan 2007

Posts: 11,564

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From: Tucson

Quote:

Originally Posted by B-2

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000024G

Sep 19, 2011 | 05:44 PM

#34

B-2

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Joined: Jun 2008

Posts: 74

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From: Conroe,TX

Thanks Bill I guess I am getting old I checked their site

& could not find it any were.
Thanks Bill

Sep 22, 2011 | 12:37 PM

#35

Confederate Diesel

Senior User

Joined: Dec 2010

Posts: 188

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Quote:

Originally Posted by pgr380

BTW, the switch I got from NAPA had 4 terminals instead of the 3 on the original switch. What is the additional for?

Ground at START for a brake warning light witness circuit.
Makes a nice upgrade with a '67-'72 brake warning light in the dash if you have upgraded to disc brakes.

Sep 22, 2011 | 02:32 PM

#36

OldHarley

Elder User

Joined: Oct 2009

Posts: 825

Likes: 2

From: Dallas, Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by Confederate Diesel

Ground at START for a brake warning light witness circuit.
Makes a nice upgrade with a '67-'72 brake warning light in the dash if you have upgraded to disc brakes or dual circuit drums.

Thanks, I am going to upgrade to these in the future.

Feb 3, 2026 | 11:00 PM

#37

Planeview

2nd Gear

Joined: Feb 2026

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Awesome info!

Quote:

Originally Posted by 65jim

Here you go, pgr 380. Maybe this will help end the confusion the Self-proclaimed know-it-all started. The two horizontal notches are the locking notches to keep it from turning. The other three are to hold the cup behind the hole in place to keep the switch straight in the dash hole.

Here are the tabs on the bezel I was talking about.

I just went through two spacers thinking I got the wrong size so it wasn’t putting enough tension on the spring to keep it from rotating the whole assembly! The notches in my dash are completely worn out, I didn’t even know it was supposed to have them haha. I’m a recent owner of a 66 F100 so I have a lot to learn. Any advice on a remedy for my situation?

Feb 4, 2026 | 11:00 AM

#38

gstrom99

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Joined: Jul 2025

Posts: 67

Likes: 34

From: Butler County, IA

Welcome!

Got a pic of the boogered up hole? I don't know if a ready-made patch piece is available (doubtful). You may be able to weld it a bit and then dremmel/file it to remake the notches.

Last edited by gstrom99; Feb 5, 2026 at 10:51 AM.