Challenge "76 HIGHBOY" started
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2011
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 78
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From: Western Australia
Looking at your pic's on page 5 you have the same weird power
steer set up I have, my mechanic never seen 1 like it.
He thought it was off a tractor ! lol Are parts hard to get ?
cheers Jeff
steer set up I have, my mechanic never seen 1 like it.
He thought it was off a tractor ! lol Are parts hard to get ?
cheers Jeff
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8,261
Likes: 15
From: Big Sky Country
It's factory "power assist" steering, parts are not hard to get per se but they are expensive.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 448
Likes: 31
From: Park City, Utah
Very Nice Job!!!
I also appreciate the time you take to write things up nicely and include lots of pictures.
I'll be curious to know how well the VHT paint holds up over time on the transmission and transfer case.
On my first F-250 restoration I spent a small fortune having everything powder coated. I also had all the various bolts and fasteners re-plated.
I recently started on my '78 F-250 4x4 and rather than spend the money on powder coating I'm using Sherwin Williams Polane S Plus paint over their 2.8 VOC Catalysed Epoxy Primer. I'll use that on the frame, axles, transmission, etc, etc.
I decided to use stainless steel bolts where I could, but the cost is substantial. I ordered them for just the transmission and transfer case (and not all of them at that) and it was almost $44.00.
Keep up the great work...
I also appreciate the time you take to write things up nicely and include lots of pictures.
I'll be curious to know how well the VHT paint holds up over time on the transmission and transfer case.
On my first F-250 restoration I spent a small fortune having everything powder coated. I also had all the various bolts and fasteners re-plated.
I recently started on my '78 F-250 4x4 and rather than spend the money on powder coating I'm using Sherwin Williams Polane S Plus paint over their 2.8 VOC Catalysed Epoxy Primer. I'll use that on the frame, axles, transmission, etc, etc.
I decided to use stainless steel bolts where I could, but the cost is substantial. I ordered them for just the transmission and transfer case (and not all of them at that) and it was almost $44.00.
Keep up the great work...
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Thanks for the input all !
Jbell / Montana / Mikey / Chunder and Blackfoot ! much appreciated !!!!!
still waiting on my block, heads ,crank and fly wheel so ive been making work on anything that will need to be done before I reinstall.
Jbell / Montana / Mikey / Chunder and Blackfoot ! much appreciated !!!!!
still waiting on my block, heads ,crank and fly wheel so ive been making work on anything that will need to be done before I reinstall.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
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Frame, under cab, and crossmembers cleaned up and undercoated from the rear of the cab forward. I can remove the bed and complete the rest later.
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working on the cab this time just for a change of pace. there's a few things I wanted to do like get rid of that ugly red dash pad. The pad itself is in pretty good shape other than some small cracks, but it really should be black. Also the Headliner has shrunk and pulled away from the
retainer and is sagging. I need to cut another one from some 1/8" hard board from Lowes or something and glue some black Vinyl to it, and maybe install some insulation above it. And finally the instrument cluster could use some trim and the needles repainted as they are completely faded.
retainer and is sagging. I need to cut another one from some 1/8" hard board from Lowes or something and glue some black Vinyl to it, and maybe install some insulation above it. And finally the instrument cluster could use some trim and the needles repainted as they are completely faded.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 448
Likes: 31
From: Park City, Utah
Here's an idea for the dash pad. I did this when I restored my '73 years ago and it turned out very well:
I took the cracked dash pad to a good upholstery shop and had them cover the top surface with some thin foam. They then used two pieces of high-quality vinyl and sewed them together. The idea was to position the seam so it's at the top front edge of the pad. They then glued the cover to the pad, stretching the vinyl where necessary. Because it's done in two pieces there isn't the "bunching" of excess material in the corners that you would expect. One other benefit is you can get the vinyl in virtually any color to match other interior pieces.
A very good friend has a 1968 Shelby GT 500 and this is essentially how that dash was made when it was new.
I took the cracked dash pad to a good upholstery shop and had them cover the top surface with some thin foam. They then used two pieces of high-quality vinyl and sewed them together. The idea was to position the seam so it's at the top front edge of the pad. They then glued the cover to the pad, stretching the vinyl where necessary. Because it's done in two pieces there isn't the "bunching" of excess material in the corners that you would expect. One other benefit is you can get the vinyl in virtually any color to match other interior pieces.
A very good friend has a 1968 Shelby GT 500 and this is essentially how that dash was made when it was new.
