Motor Build
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,135
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From: Man Cave
ARP head studs
Now putting them in first will work if you have two of you to pick up those heads. They are bloody heavy. I ended up taking em out, putting the heads on with the locating dowels and sliding em back in. It was the only way I could lift the heads on by myself.
And this is what Im looking at re the colour scheme
I still have to torque the head bolts. But Im going to have to source a stronger stand. My one is rated at 2000lbs but its struggling. Im to scared to touch it now
Now putting them in first will work if you have two of you to pick up those heads. They are bloody heavy. I ended up taking em out, putting the heads on with the locating dowels and sliding em back in. It was the only way I could lift the heads on by myself.
And this is what Im looking at re the colour scheme
I still have to torque the head bolts. But Im going to have to source a stronger stand. My one is rated at 2000lbs but its struggling. Im to scared to touch it now
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 323
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From: Victor Harbor South Aust
IMPRESSIVE
G'day Brian,
Very impressive mate
, following this one closely.
I noticed in your pics, drums of 'NULON'. Well at least a recognisable drum of their Tranny Fluid.
Are you using Nulon oils in your truck?
Are you intending to use it in this re-build?
I've been using Castrol RX Super 15w 40 in donk, Transmax 'Z' in tranny and Castrol Gear oils in the Diffs. No issues and not about to change, just curious as to what others are using Downunder in Aust.
The choices over here are limited somewhat but there are a multitude of oils available to our US cuzzs.
Oils are a bit like beer, you either like em or you don't (for what ever reason) and when you can't get ya fav ... ya tend to spit it
.
Cheers,
Reg
There are two ways to conquer a nation, one is by the sword and the other is by debt. -John Adams 1826- <O
</O
Very impressive mate
, following this one closely.I noticed in your pics, drums of 'NULON'. Well at least a recognisable drum of their Tranny Fluid.
Are you using Nulon oils in your truck?
Are you intending to use it in this re-build?
I've been using Castrol RX Super 15w 40 in donk, Transmax 'Z' in tranny and Castrol Gear oils in the Diffs. No issues and not about to change, just curious as to what others are using Downunder in Aust.
The choices over here are limited somewhat but there are a multitude of oils available to our US cuzzs.
Oils are a bit like beer, you either like em or you don't (for what ever reason) and when you can't get ya fav ... ya tend to spit it
.Cheers,
Reg
There are two ways to conquer a nation, one is by the sword and the other is by debt. -John Adams 1826- <O
</O
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,135
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From: Man Cave
Nulon in everything m8. Im changing oil every 15000 k's and my oil analysis comes back good. Oil still has a yellow colour, viscosity doesn't move and all my metals have stayed at or around the same mark since I have had it (3 yrs).
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 323
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From: Victor Harbor South Aust
LUDDITE
I can only presume you are using 'Plastic (synthetic)' oil in the donk?
Being a Marine Eng in a former life I would be concerned to see Comp Ignition Engine oil at a 1,000hr change still showing new colour
.Even more concerned seeing that colour after a 15K life in a Comp Ignition donk. Diesel Engine oils have a Detergent agent (hence suceptible to foaming if overfilled) in them to wash away the carbon deposits of Diesel oil and should, if they are doing their job be quite black at recommended oil change intervals, otherwise the cabon deposits build up. Or at least that is my experience with Dino oils.
I have to admit that I have never used a Synthetic in any engine so I can't speak from experience in that regard. It may very well be the nature of these Synthetics and how they react with these modern Low Carbon (shhh don't mention the CT around here ...shhhh), Low ash, Low Sulphur & Low what ever else oils
.However you say your Oil Analysis is always in spec, so it must be your on a good thing there
.It is quite possible being a 'Luddite' I am still living in the dark ages
.Cheers,
Reg
.Either that dress is too short.....or she is not in it far enough!!! <O
</O-Ginger Meggs-<O</O
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 164
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From: DOWN UNDER!!
We had the same thing with 2 Caterpillar 3408's side by side in the engine room.... Port engine would turn the oil black in about 3 days, Starboard engine stayed clean as a whistle until the 1000hr change over. It looked like new and was just running off the dipstick so we thought the injectors/rings were wrong and the sump was filling up with diesel, so sent a sample off for analysis - came back it was perfect... same levels of everything as the Port engine, so who knows.....
Anyway one dropped a valve later on and the other blew the coolant crossover pipe for the turbo and was going to cost more than new engines to rebuild, so there are 2 new Vulva's in there now. 2 less pots, +175hp each side, uses less than half the fuel and boat speed is up to 20kts (from 14.5) - all round winning. Charlie Sheen would be proud :P
Also, engine is looking sweet Brian
- thought I'd better get back on topic lol
Anyway one dropped a valve later on and the other blew the coolant crossover pipe for the turbo and was going to cost more than new engines to rebuild, so there are 2 new Vulva's in there now. 2 less pots, +175hp each side, uses less than half the fuel and boat speed is up to 20kts (from 14.5) - all round winning. Charlie Sheen would be proud :P
Also, engine is looking sweet Brian
- thought I'd better get back on topic lol
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,135
Likes: 0
From: Man Cave
Mineral base bruva
15W-40 High Protection Diesel Formula Engine Oil- Nulon Australia
I tried the Synthetic once and found the engine to noisy.
15W-40 High Protection Diesel Formula Engine Oil- Nulon Australia
I tried the Synthetic once and found the engine to noisy.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 0
From: Canberra Australia
Nulon in my Auto since the Sydney GTG when we put in a JW valve body. So far so good and very pleased to see an Aussie Company, Nulon, doing well! Enough said.
Castrol does do the synthetic diff oil that our trucks require:
Castrol Australia - NetLube
Castrol does do the synthetic diff oil that our trucks require:
Castrol Australia - NetLube
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,135
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From: Man Cave
front seal removal
clamped the LPOP housing onto a bench. Now the seal is coated with loctite 262 (red) so a bit of heat is needed. Just used a small handheld torch
then just used a crowbar and she popped out
clamped the LPOP housing onto a bench. Now the seal is coated with loctite 262 (red) so a bit of heat is needed. Just used a small handheld torch
then just used a crowbar and she popped out
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Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,135
Likes: 0
From: Man Cave
rear engine cover and main seal.
Used some spacers on the bolts and flywheel to press it on. Then a bit of flat bar and hammer to tap the wear sleeve flush with the crank
Almost there. Luv the look
Used some spacers on the bolts and flywheel to press it on. Then a bit of flat bar and hammer to tap the wear sleeve flush with the crank
Almost there. Luv the look
