Unfortunately no. The 351w has larger main bearings as well so the pans are not interchangable. The only parts that interchange between these two motors are the water pump, timing set, cam and lifters, and cylinder heads, everything else is unique to the engine.

 

I missed the oil pan part in my reply, but meant to cover it as well.

 

Bummer on the pan.

As for the cam, Comp Cams have different cams for the 351W and 302 - is that just grind, meaning that a mild 351 cam would be more radical one in a 302?

And, btw, heads are only downward compatible IIRC since the 351W has larger head bolts than does a 302. So, a 351 head will go on a 302 w/o work, but I know I had to enlarge the bolt holes in the 302 heads I put on my 351W.

I don't want to get too far into freshening the 302. Maybe gaskets and a timing set. Or, maybe the HO cam and lifters in the 302 and the CC XE250H in the 351? Or vice versa? If I were to put the manifold on that'd be pretty easy.

 

Early 302 had a different firing order than a 351W. The cams will physically interchange, but the dist wires have to be swapped around.
Around 77, the 302/351W started using the same heads. 302 just got bolts with a bigger shank, smaller thread size. These bolts also allow any 351W head to be used on older 302 blocks.

As for freshening the 302, it would also be a good idea to replace the valve stem seals. They tend to get hard over time, even with low miles. This leads to them cracking/breaking and falling off. Lots of smoke and oil use results.

There is one minor advantage to the smaller bolt circle wheels. Lots of aftermarket options in the 4.5" pattern, as it is still used on the ranger, and was used by both ford and mopar on the older cars. Heck, there's even new cars still using it, like the mustangs, but they use a higher offset wheel.....
The smaller brakes would be fine for a truck not used for heavy hauling/towing, which is all a flairside would really be suitable for. Not enough bed space for heavy loads, and too short wheelbase for towing bigger loads.

 

Not sure it was '77 as my D7 heads had the smaller holes, and they should have been at least engineered in '77. But, I've shown I really don't know a 302 from a 351 so will cease and desist.

And, I thought about the smaller bolt circle and later wheels. Could be an advantage for some kid that wants to put wide wheels w/large offset on a cute truck. That's not my thing, but everyone is entitled to their opinion even if it is wrong.

Still thinking about the Stepside. Can get it cheaply and can probably make a running truck out of the bits, but might be lots of work. Please keep the thoughts and ideas coming as we await Ray coming back w/more info - although he "closed" the thread.

 

Since newer rangers and explorers use the same bolt pattern wheels, might even be able to locate some nice factory wheels to toss on it. Someone did that on my mazda truck, to get rid of the stock steelies. 15" ranger wheels, rather than 14" stockers.
It has been suggested that some of the newer wheels don't have quite as large center hole. We could always test fit one of my wheels, to make sure they will clear the center of the rotor. Ford offered some decent looking wheels for the ranger/bronco II/explorer, including ones like you scored for your 82. My son in law's BII has them.
I wish the newer mustang wheels would work on my mazda/ranger truck, but they need ~1.25" spacers. I think a set of the "Bullitt" wheels would look killer on it....... I guess I'll just keep looking for a set of the aftermarket "clones" that were rather popular a few years back.

When I say high offset, I am talking about numbers in the + range. Deep dish wheels from days of yore, I call those low offset, due to being in the 0 or even - range.

One minor downside to the stepside. Getting it tagged will be around $250, unless you know a couple tricks...... going thru that right now on dad's truck. *Almost* got it tagged yesterday, but I need a form signed by him and notorized. Perhaps early next week......

 

!!! Talk about a tangent! Wheww. Well, I don't have anything else to say about fuel pressure, since the truck is now fixed, and the selector valve is now bypassed and removed.

Gary, if you want help building that step-side just give me a yell. We just about have my truck in a position that it will be comfortable to drive without having to fix things all the time. We just need to iron out that wheel bearing and charge the ac and I will be all yours to pull parts from trucks and whatever else you need.

 

Tomorrow night on the wheel bearing? I'm hoping to get the HO on Tuesday. We can roll it out and yours in 'most anytime, so up to you. In fact, I'm getting pretty good rolling the parts truck out and in by myself - although it is missing a part or two so might weigh a little less than it used to.

In fact, if you come tomorrow we can pull the parts truck behind the shop w/the mower and offload the bed - assuming the two of us can handle the bed. And, I'm hoping to have most of what I want off of it SOON and get it to the salvage.

 

Gary, no can do tomorrow. I promised Holly I would watch little Ray so she can get her flower beds finished. She has been working really hard on getting the place looking good, and she needs to finish. I might be able to help you out tuesday. I guess I should go ahead and get a new inner and outer bearing for that hub so we can press them. Do you have a bearing packer? I will just bring mine, and my grease gun.

By the way, did you and Rogue ever figure things out with the rear axles? I was wondering if I would be able to snag a good third member. I would really like a posi or limited slip unit. I might just rebuild mine with a limited slip unit.

I keep hearing that clicking sound we heard the other day. I am not sure if its those brake adjusters or if the rear end gears are grabbing and clicking? Whatever the case, that rear axle is bound to be due for a rebuild.

 

I doubt the rearend is in need of rebuild. The 9" is a rather stout and reliable diff. Prolly why Ford got away from using it......

We've not had a chance to talk yet, but I'm pretty sure I want one of those 3.50 diff's and a driveshaft for dad's truck. It could use better gearing, and the one piece DS will be a good upgrade. Plus, bigger u-joints......

 

I have a bearing packer. But, have a church dinner on Tuesday evening. Was thinking I'd go get the trailer and then the '85 HO on Tuesday morn, and the guy I'm getting it from will help me load it, although I'll need help getting it off the trailer.

As for rear axles, we are cross-threading here. By that I mean I asked the question on my pre-lube thread about needing the whole axle or the center section. However, since RW is buying the wheels the truck is sitting on and something was said about springs, I'm thinking through how to keep all that and have the scrap guy just pick up the frame and cab.

 

Gary, its time you bought a car trailer..hahaha...You could haul scrap to the yard yourself then. I see signs posted all over the place saying "we buy junk cars". Im sure one of those guys would come by and pick it up and give you something for it, don't know how much though, they have to make money at the yard....So you would get more if you hauled it yourself probably.