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ctubutis - Thanks. I'll re-re-read that post. In fact, I'll print it and put it by the 'puter. And, I do understand natural counting, though I prefer un-natural as it is more logical.
But, regardless of how difficult it is to use the master parts catalog has been a real help - thanks for the tip. Now if I can just search........
Okay guys. No luck tonight. I replaced the in-tank pump in the forward tank. Put everything back together and the noise was still there. I was almost 100% positive it was the external fuel pump. So I took it back to the store and got them to replace it. I put it on. The sound is still there. Now I am pretty damn sure that it IS the external pump making the noise. The noise is constant. Doesn't change with rpm, so we know its not an accessory. It sounds like a bad fuel pump. You know that gear whining kinda sound. Well, I replaced the fuel filter earlier today before I replaced all the pumps. What is causing the pump to sound like that? The wire harness to the pump has a red and black wire. I assumed that the red one was positive and black was negative. The posts on the pump were labled (-) and (+).
Gary thinks we need to look at the fuel regulator on the fuel rail. Has anybody ever had a problem with the fuel regulator? If it goes bad what does it do?
P.S. I know I am getting power to the in-tank pump.
LOL Gary....yes I have been very busy. I just replaced the entire fuel system on the truck. This morning I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and bypassed the feed line from the front tank around the selector valve. This cured the noise from the pump. Like I suspected, there was some odd pressure somewhere in the system and it was making the high pressure pump strain, which caused it to make a loud humming noise.
I still am planning on bypassing the return line around the selector valve, but I ran out of 3/8 steel fuel line.
The truck runs great now, no hesitation, stalling or bucking. Now Gary and I need to have a drag race to see who's will run faster!!lol
Also, I plan on taking out the rear tank, and removing the tank selector valve from the frame. No more dual tank crap. This is an awful system...what ever happened to keeping it simple?
Now I think I will have a beer before I go to work! Cheers
Congrat's!! Perseverance prevails! As for the drag race, its like I always told my son - don't fight girls 'cause if you lose what will people say? If I beat you w/3 cylinders leaking to the cooling system and overall leakage ranging from a best of 38% to a high of 82%, what will people say?
Will be interesting to pull codes tonight. I'm guessing we'll still have the main ones (AIR, IAC, & TPS), but if it runs as well as you say (his text said something about an ape) then should you worry about them?
Congrat's!! Perseverance prevails! As for the drag race, its like I always told my son - don't fight girls 'cause if you lose what will people say? If I beat you w/3 cylinders leaking to the cooling system and overall leakage ranging from a best of 38% to a high of 82%, what will people say?
Will be interesting to pull codes tonight. I'm guessing we'll still have the main ones (AIR, IAC, & TPS), but if it runs as well as you say (his text said something about an ape) then should you worry about them?
So you're calling yourself a girl??? hahaha Thats funny...I still want to pull codes again. I am still having it die at first start-up like the IAC isn't working well, or I might need to adjust my idle set screw. I will see you tonight. It will be later because I need to work later now that I am missing work.
Impressive that it now has attained the violated monkey status. Good job Ray!
I bet the switching valve is either partly clogged with crud, or may be binding up in between tank settings. I've never had much luck over the long run with any dual (or more) tank setup that used an electronic gizmo to select the tank. Manual switching valves, like used to be seen between the door and seat, rarely have issues beyond crud getting in them.
As for the IAC and TPS codes, those *could* have been user error, since we had 3 people that were guessing their way thru the test proceedure. Of course, we *could* have actually gotten it right.......
So you're calling yourself a girl??? hahaha Thats funny...I still want to pull codes again. I am still having it die at first start-up like the IAC isn't working well, or I might need to adjust my idle set screw. I will see you tonight. It will be later because I need to work later now that I am missing work.
LOL, too funny.
Good plan to run the test again.
I won't be able to be there in person, as it's still a few years away from the cloning stage......
As for calling myself a girl, I think if you follow the analogy it would be my truck that I likened to a girl. And, as I consider that, it may be appropriate: She's pretty rather than rugged; requires............ maybe I'd better stop while I've not offended anyone out there.
And, RW is right - we knew we had "operator errors" in the tests - especially the TPS and knock sensor ones. But, the dying on restart suggests IAC problems.
I forgot - Ray sent me a text this morn that his rear tank had fuel running out of the rear filler neck, but he was running on the front tank. Sounds to me like the switch/reservoir is the problem.
From what little I know about the system it appears that the switch on the dash selects which in-tank pump to run. The reservoir senses the pressure from that tank's pump and switches both its supply input and return outlet to that tank. But, it must have been sending the return to the rear tank even though the front pump was the one running - in fact, I think it is the only one that works. So it looks like the reservoir is bad - time to take it out of the equation for good.
Thanks for that. I'll read, and maybe print, the procedure from those sites before Ray gets here. As for the battery, I'd have missed that one unless it's part of the process.
Based on the fluel flow restriction and returning to the wrong tank, I'd say the valve was hanging up inside. Taking it out of the system should not only make it run a lot better, but the MPG should go thru the roof.........
Yeah, I knew about the battery unhook. I have had to do this on my 95 Ford/Mazda a couple times. Once was due to forgetting to hook up the coolant temp sensor after correcting the timing belt (user error). Knew what I done as soon as the light came on. Been on about a week now for the "excessive ERG flow" code that has come a couple times. When will I learn to either clean the EGR valve, or quit leaving it idling with the A/C running......
IIRC it's not stated directly in the process but I very well may have missed it by not reading everything and/or going too fast.
Quite honestly I figured this out myself after having replaced the TPS (which one of the codes was leading me to) and it then idled at around 2,000 RPM.
My brother works for an automobile extended warranty call department and laughed at me when I told him this, he says disconnecting the battery and resetting the computer is SOP with this kind of stuff.