The computer may use the O2 to test that the system is functioning, but under normal operation air is never injected upstream of the O2 sensor once the engine is in closed loop since this would make it look like the motor is running lean.. when it isn't.

 

That makes sense. I think I might try running the codes one more time and then try tackling any other issues other than the AIR system. If the air system does nothing during closed loop then why put it on? I might try to see if that EGR valve is functioning, because I have heard that the extra exhaust gas in the intake will actually displace some of the fuel and help your combustion chamber run cooler, not sure if it helps fuel efficiency or not.

What are your thoughts on the heater throttle body? Heat it or not?

 

The heated throttle body aids in atomizing the fuel a bit better, which leads to a better burn, and leaner mix needed. It also helps prevent intake "icing" in cool/damp conditions.
The EGR also aids in allowing for a leaner fuel mix. The 2 together can add a noticable difference in MPG.

 

On a carbed or TBI motor maybe but not on these multipoint EFI motors, fuel atomization is handled by the injectors that are at the other end of 15" long intake runners. The heated TB simply prevents icing in cold weather conditions.. which is a real issue in the northern states and Canada.

 

Im going to keep the heated TB off for now. Its going to stay in the upper 90's-100's down here in Tulsa for ahwile now. I won't be needing to pre-heat the air or keep anything from icing. If I have issues with it icing up this winter I will hook it back up.

Gary, after learning about the AIR not effecting air/fuel ratio, I might just leave it off for now. The motor seems to be running fine after the fuel pump replacement. I need to figure out why the new pump is so loud. I bought a filter during lunch and will install it after work before i head home. If that doesn't cure it, I might need to get a new in tank pump.

Are there any other filters or screen that I need to check before replacing the in tank pump?

 

It does, but it injects the air down stream of the O2 sensor, so the computer should not be able to detect it in closed loop.

The only problem I forsee is when the computer switches from cold start to normal operation. When the engine is cold and first started in the morning it's pumping air up stream of the O2 sensor, so the computer can detect that. The problem I see is when the engine switches from cold to normal operation, the computer will not sense the proper change in the O2 reading, thus throwing a code. Will this be enough to keep the engine from going into closed loop? Not sure. The computer right now is telling you the highest priority code is the Code 44. I don't know of any other way to get rid of that code other than to fix it properly. People are saying to hook your TAB/TAD solenoids back up, and that will work, so try it and see what the computer says.

Definately run the codes again. and each time you change something.

It will displace some of the fuel, and make the combustion cooler, therefore the timing is retarded a little. The ignition system makes up for this by increasing and advancing the timing curve. You will get better mileage with the EGR hooked up with the stock timing curves.

Depends, if you live in a cold climate, I highly recommend it if you do.

 

It can affect the air/fuel ratio, but normally only in cold start and warm up mode, as this is the only time it is supposed to inject air upstream of the O2 sensor.

Is it running fine or is it running better? I would bet if you could get the computer to spit out a Code 11 pass code, it will run as best as it ever will.

 

Its running MUCH better. I do not know exactly how good it will run though. Its still breaking in. I need to tackle this fuel pump noise first, then get back to the original grinding sound in the front end. Then I need to hook up my ac. Then I need to fix the rear end, then I need to get a good spare, then I want to paint, then I need to fix the interior, then I need to.....blah blah blah.....it goes on and on.

 

Hesitation is back. External fuel pump making terribly loud noise. I installed a new fuel filter and that did nothing to help out.

So. I installed a new fuel pump last night. That seemed to help out or cure my hesitation. This morning the same noise came back from the new fuel pump. I installed a new fuel filter thinking it could be clogged. That didn't help. What is my problem? In tank pump? Fuel selector valve not functioning? Any experts out there?

 

Sounds like it is running well enough to say it isn't in limp-home mode, which would seem to say the thermactor issue isn't serious. But, I'm no expert on the FI systems. However, if we could confirm it isn't in limp-home mode we could concentrate on fixing the issues that certainly will cause problems, such as the IAC and the TPS - assuming it will still through those codes and I can't see why it wouldn't since we've done nothing to fix them.

The IAC may be part of the issue where it dies right after starting. And, once the A/C is hooked up you'll need it to work properly to get a good idle.

If the TPS has a bad spot in the range it would probably cause a problem at some point in the throttle range. However, that code might have been operator error.

 

Obviously I'm not the expert, but humor me: What do you mean by "hesitation"? Please elaborate.

 

Okay Gary we must be typing at the same time. Hesitation means it is stalling out, then comes back, then stalls...back and forth like that.

 

I did see it. You and I were typing at the same time, and probably are again.

 

BTW I know what BTW is, just couldn't recall having seen "awa" before.

Once you find the basic part number in the Illustration section, you then take that to the Text section and look it up there.

It's more or less organized the same as the Illustration section.

Well, not really always, but the concept is as so:

The sort order is kinda like UNIX numerical sorting in that it's based on *columns* rather than natural counting.

For example, here is a directory listing of a bunch of empty files with numerals as their names (pay attention to the RH column):

Natural counting says:

1 is less than 11
11 is less than 1111123456
1111123456 is greater than 12

Then, why is THAT considered a "sorted" list?

Follow your eye down the LH column, you'll see everything increments top to bottom.

Next column over, same thing.

Same thing over and over again, left to right.

Follow the columns.

Here's another example:


Notice that the file named ".esd-1000" is listed ABOVE the one called .esd-112.

Because the 0 in the second column is less than the 1 in the second column below it.

Ford's system is based the same.

If there is an alphabetical character in the midst of numbers (e.g. 12A345) then the A-Z stuff will iterate FIRST, before the sort order takes the next highest number into account.



In any case, scroll down through the Text section and focus your eye generally in the middle of the page where the basic part number is contained.

Find the section dealing with the basic part number you're looking for, these sections are generally organized by vehicle type (model) but not always; for example, sometimes it's based on engine family, or AC compressor size, or whatever.

Anyway, you then find the vehicle onto which the basic part number fits, and, generally in the middle-ish of the page, you'll find the replacement part number.

Replacement part numbers prefixed with a black star have been obsoleted and not replaced; good luck finding those at a retailer anywhere.

Sometimes, off in the RH side, you'll see something like:

#E4TA 12345 - HA

That hash (pound sign) and what follows is what the part itself is marked as (IOW (in other words for you ) the Engineering ID number.)

Only sometimes will they do that.

Another example - a comma means "or":

E6TA 9J338-AA,AB (Text section 93 Page 18)

That means one can use replacement part numbers E6TA-9J338-AA or E6TA-9J338-AB

Once you have the replacement part number, well...

Ideally, you'd first look it up in the OSI (Obsolete/Supersede/Interchange) manual to see if the part number has been replaced but I don't have one, NumberDummy is the only one I'm aware of who has that (on microfiche).

Once you have a part number, you can then plug it into Ed's site (www.partsguyed.com) and/or www.partsvoice.com to see who has it for sale.

General classifications:

A = Aerostar
B = Bronco II
R = Ranger
E = van
F = light-duty truck
U = Bronco


Years....

80 means 1980 model ONLY
80/ means 1980 models thru the end of the catalog series (1989 in this case)
82/83 means 1982 & 1983 models ONLY



I think that's about all.


See why you need to talk to NumberDummy?

Here is a list of components & section numbers Bill gave me some time ago:

 

First of all, thank you for finding the basic part number for me.

The Gallery here shrink images quite a bit, the Album not so much (although still shrinks some).

This is why I put my "bigger" pictures on a hosting site and just source 'em from there.