Here's the page from the catalog:

Sorry for the crummy quality, but this site crunches the pic's down and that's what you get. Looks to me like the #'s are 9J338 & 9J323. However, this doesn't give the prefix and I'm not sufficiently versed in the use of the MPC to deduce that. But, the prefix is needed since a Google search of those #'s turns up lots of different Ford parts.

Having said all this, Ray called and can't find the lines at the local parts stores, so has several feet of plastic fuel line and thinks he can make them. Let's hope it works.

 

Not to steal Ray's thunder, but he's probably eating dinner and won't get to post for a bit. But, his fix was successful and the return line leaks no more. So, today he solved the starving-at-speed issue and a fuel leak he didn't know he had. PROGRESS!

 

Cool. Glad I decided to tackle the brakes on dad's truck. Got new pads installed on the front, and pulled the rear drums. Driver side first, all looked good. Passenger side, not so good. Axle seal leaking.......
Buried in the crud, I found the self adjuster cable. New shoes, a self adjuster cable, and a pair of rear WC should fix that part. But, the alxe has to come out for a seal at least, possibly a bearing.
Brings up a dilema. Do I A) put the original 3.25 gears back in, B) leave the current 3.00 gears in, or C) get the 3.50 gears from Gary along with the driveshaft to eliminate the carrier bearing.
A has it's strong points, as it's original. C also has it's strong points, better gearing and bigger u-joints with no carrier bearing. B only has 1 point, and that's less work.

Notice how an OT post kinda fits here? Started with why I didn't make a trip to Gary's to assist on Ray's truck, (that also didn't get there), and came back to ask about buying parts from Gary.
Ain't I just too cool? LOL....

 

E5TZ-9J323-A TUBE ASSY. (FUEL PUMP TO RAIL) Fits 85/86 F150/250 & Bronco with 302 EFI. Nylon - includes filter (marked as E57A 9155-HA) connectors N806187-S190, N806186-S190 90 degrees Available
Green Sales Company CINCINNATI, OH 45237 (800) 543-4959 has 1
Text Section 93 page 8

Note, that part number seems to have been superseded; I don't have the OSI (obsolete/superseded/interchange) catalog, perhaps others here do? In any event, Green seems to have one of the OLD number, that should work I'd think.

E6TA-9J338-AA or AB TUBE ASSY. (FUEL ENGINE SUPPLY & RETURN) Fits 1986 F150/250/Bronco with 5.0L engine Not Available Text Section 93 page 18
Actually, like above, this has been obsoleted and replaced by 3 different possibilities:

E6TZ-9K151-A
E6TZ-9J323-G
E6TZ-9C330-A

I'm gonna leave it at that, it's too confusing.

At first, i found one place in Puerto Rico that has ONE of the old part numbers, but then they suddenly didn't have it but they had one of the three alternates listed.

But, it's in Puerto Rico, and Gary already patched it, and I was finding it confusing to go tracking down the alternates, and things ave been obsoleted but I don't have an OSI catalog. so, nevermind....

 

Thanks for stealing my thunder Gary! lol. Yes, the stalling seems to be fixed, or much better anyhow. That alone makes the truck feel stronger. For the leaking return line I wasn't able to come up with anything stock for replacement. Had to use the good ole boy method. I took the high pressure fitting that goes into the fuel rail off the original nylon tubing. (that was the point where it was leaking, looked like someone tried to pull the nylon hose off with pliers or something without realizing they could take the fitting off the rail). Anyways, I took 4' of 150psi 5/16" ID fuel injection hose from Orielly's and two nice hose clamps and fit the hose to the barbed end of the high pressure fitting. At the other end i simply slid it onto the plastic nipple that the original tube slid onto to. I clamped it down. Turn the key to run. Bled the fuel rail and checked for leaks. Looked good so I started her up, it took a second to get all the air out of the fuel rail, then she idled out fairly smooth and then I checked for leaks again. All looks good. I did however throw the fire extinguisher in the bed for good measure! lol

Now, I would like to get back over to garys and throw that AIR stuff back on and run a KOEO and KOER tests.

Later

 

Guys...I think replacing that fuel pump last night was a good idea, however I think that it was only part of the problem. The new pump is making a noise like it is under a strain. When I am idling I can hear it in the cab making a humming sound. I know it is the fuel pump, i put my hand on it and the vibrations from the pump match the frequency of the noise. The noise does not change with vehicle speed or engine rpm. Could the pump in the tank be causing the high pressure pump to be working too hard if the tank pump is not functioning? I will get a new one tonight, and replace the filter just for good measure.

 

Ctubutis - How'd ya figure out the prefix? BTW (by the way to you), am still working on making the catalog searchable. Ray's checking to see if a friend can do it from the one-page sample I sent him and, if so, we'll send the 1.3 gig file.

RW - Are the drive shafts the same length between your dad's truck and ours? As for ratio, the 3.50's sure give a truck nice snap, but the fuel mileage is poor. Having said that, I've never heard "FE" and "great mileage" in the same sentence. My '72 390 got better mileage w/the Q-Jet than it did w/the 2bbl, so yours might do ok w/the dinky 4bbl you are planning.

Ray - Were there any grommets for isolating the pump from the frame, and did they go back on? As for putting the thermactor stuff on, I'm wondering what the downside is of having the computer realizing it isn't there. Apparently that doesn't throw it into limp-home mode because you aren't limping and you have lots of codes. Maybe the IAC and TPS issues are more significant since, IMHO, they will cause driveability problems. But, I've never driven one of the FI trucks, much less diagnosed one, so maybe someone that has can comment?

 

Yes, there were rubber grommets, and they all went back on, including a foam pad that wrapped around the pump. Maybe I tightened the bolts on the grommets too tight? Well, anyways, the previous pump was making the same noise as well as a different noise.

Im going to throw a bomb at this truck...

I might have to go back to chevy's.......don't hate me ya'll

 

Ray, you would prefer a truck that you can't shut the doors on, or keep a starter working? If ya buy a chevy, get puppy, so you never have to walk home alone.....

Seriously, the EFI system ford used was a bit more complex than what GM offered at the time (they were TBI in trucks until sometime in the early 90's). It takes a bit more effort to diagnose, due to the added complexity.
The new pump (Autozone special?) could be just a noisy pump, or there could be other factors, like a weak in-tank pump or partly clogged screen/line causing the pump to not be supplied with the proper volume of fuel, therefore it's "protesting" loudly.

Gary, I will have to crawl under both my truck and dad's to measure between the rear seal of the C6 and the front seal of the 9", but I can't imagine there will be any difference in the distance since both are 133" WB trucks, with the same trans and rearend. I know the later models use larger u-joints (354/434 vs 3 x 369) and no carrier bearing. If the seal to seal distance is the same, I see no drawbacks to upgrading to bigger u-joints and losing the carrier bearing, along with adding a much larger OD driveshaft. All sound like a good idea, when dealing with a warmed up 390.......
My Mazda/Ranger truck uses the same u-joints as the 74, but the DS is about twice the OD. I seriously doubt that 2.3L makes that much power, even though it is a roller cam motor.
As for the gearing and MPG, it came with 3.25 originally, and I still have that 3rd member. But, like you said, a 3.50 gear really adds to the overall power feel. And, as dad always said, there's not much you can do to improve MPG with an FE. There's also not much you can do to hurt it either, might as well make that B* run......

 

Now that we are talking about rear ends, mine is going to need some work also. I did a low speed test down the street last night. There is quite a bit of lash between the pinion and ring gear. You can hear it thud if you keep it in 1st and give it gas then let off and let the engine do the braking. If you do that back and forth you can hear a thud in the axle. Gary and RW, that may explain some of that clicking towards the rear we heard the other night while backing out. If there is too much lash inbetween those gear could they click like that?

Anyways, RW or Gary, once ya'll figure out what you are doing with all the axles floating around between us, if there is a good third member with good gears I might be interested in snagging it. I have 3.08's. But I wouldn't mind 3.25's, probably wont go lower than that because of gas mileage.

BTW, tonight I am going to put a new filter on and replace that supply fuel line. I will let you know if that fixes the noise in that pump. I will double check those grommets also to make sure they are still in good shape.

 

The computer puts what it thinks is the most important at the top of the list of codes. Code 44 is on top, so by proceedure it wants this delt with first. As for limp home mode, a malfunctioning thermactor system can put it in limp home mode as it did with the computer system on my 1981. It's an older computer system for carbs, but it uses the same diagnostic techniques. I've had a malfunctioning thermactor system make a Code 41 which is a lean condition, so the thermactor system can effect drivability. Now is there a way of fooling the computer that it works? Don't know but I'd say it was difficult as the computer can tell if it works by the O2 Sensor...

With all the fuel line and fuel pump fixing that went on though, I'd start from scratch again, and pull the codes. Something might have changed.

RW has a valid point on the fuel pump, perhaps one of the filters between the tank and the new pump is partially plugged?

Canister Fuel filter: E6TZ-9365-A: Motorcraft: FG-855
Inline Fuel Filter: E3FZ-9155-F: Motorcraft: FG-795-A

As for Ray, I wouldn't give up on it just yet.

 

Ray, if you have a 9", you don't have 3.08 gears. If you do have 3.08 gears, you don't have a 9", but rather an 8.8".
You could have 3.00 gears in a 9", or even 2.75 or 3.25.
I didn't look real close, but I think I saw a 9" under the back of your truck. If not, Gary has at least one full assembly, and it's a direct swap to go from an 8.8 to a 9", even the brake parts and driveshaft are all the same.
I'm betting that 351 HO powered truck also has a 9", most likely with 3.50 gears. Seems to be the most common axle used behind the HO motor.
You're right though, a 3.50 gear is a bit steep for an EFI 302 to make good MPG, unless you step up to a bit taller rear tires. My former father in law had an 86 EFI 5.0 with AOD and 3.55 8.8. When the AOD died, he swapped in a C6, and lost 5-7 MPG hyw.

 

I wont give up. I never give up....Anyways, Limp Home mode must not be activated. I buried the speedometer this morning, and it ran good. It did however die on me at first starup this morning. It started, putted for a second, then died. Then it started up and ran fine. I wonder if my fuel pressure is bleeding off somehow? Before I start it up to go to lunch I will check to see if there is any pressure in the fuel rail. If thats not an issue then maybe the IAC or TPS is fooked up. But like you said 81', I am going to fix that AIR stuff first and see how things go from there.

 

The computer can be "faked out" with respect to the air injection system, just install the TAB and TAD solenoids and electrically connect them. This may still generate a code but it won't be a high prioroty code so it won't set off the check engine light or affect engine operation. Outside these two devices the computer has no visibility of any other components so it won't help anything to re-install them. Just trying to save you guys the hastle.

 

Does the O2 sensor not sense the fresh air being injected into the heads? I must say, sense I replaced the fuel pump last night the engine seems to be stronger and I am becoming much more satisfied with it.