Fuel Pressure?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 6
From: Vine Grove KY
Ray - You are too new in the forum to have seen my post from last summer, but the rear bearing in my alternator let go. It not only destroyed the alternator but it killed the regulator. And, when I pulled the alternator roundish pieces of copper awa a couple of screws fell out. Further, it added a new meaning to the term "slip ring" - something that slides up and down the shaft.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
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From: Lost
At one time, dad had a really cool vacuum pump for A/C systems. Used an air hose to power it, not an electrical cord. It's what we used when we converted both his truck and mine to R134a.
Not sure where it is right now. His tools were stored at my unkle's shop, until he shut it down. They were moved to one of their garage's, either in Bristow or Drumwright (prolly some in both). I'm still in the process of tracking them down, cause he want's me to have them. Just not sure where I would store them all..... ~40 years of working as a mechanic, one can amass quite a collection of tools. Particularly when working on the really big stuff. Dunno if I will ever find a use for that 1" drive torque wrench, but should the time ever come.......
Not sure where it is right now. His tools were stored at my unkle's shop, until he shut it down. They were moved to one of their garage's, either in Bristow or Drumwright (prolly some in both). I'm still in the process of tracking them down, cause he want's me to have them. Just not sure where I would store them all..... ~40 years of working as a mechanic, one can amass quite a collection of tools. Particularly when working on the really big stuff. Dunno if I will ever find a use for that 1" drive torque wrench, but should the time ever come.......
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Code 22 is the MAP sensor out of self test range, and that's not good since it's what the computer uses to determine engine load. The MAP sensor should be connected to the intake with a rubber vacuum line as well. Obviously you'll want to change this bofore going any further, it could the source of your problem.
I don't think re-installing the smog system will help either, under normal operating conditions the system is "out of the loop" once the motor is up to temp, meaning it's either pushing air directly to the cat or dumping it to atmosphere, so it's presence or absence should make no difference to engine operation in closed loop.
What I would do is fix the MAP sensor problem, then do another key on engine off test. If that passes, then do a key on engine running test and see if any codes pop up other than code 11. If they do, then the problems have to be addressed.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 6
From: Vine Grove KY
Absolutely.
If you are just talking about the thermactor system, then after the engine is warm you are correct. What can happen is before the engine warms up the air goes to the exaust manifolds. At the moment the computer senses it's warm and the air switches from the exaust to the cats, the computer could read the problem and throw and store a code, and cause a potential problem.
What I would do is fix the MAP sensor problem, then do another key on engine off test. If that passes, then do a key on engine running test and see if any codes pop up other than code 11. If they do, then the problems have to be addressed.
If you are just talking about the thermactor system, then after the engine is warm you are correct. What can happen is before the engine warms up the air goes to the exaust manifolds. At the moment the computer senses it's warm and the air switches from the exaust to the cats, the computer could read the problem and throw and store a code, and cause a potential problem.
What I would do is fix the MAP sensor problem, then do another key on engine off test. If that passes, then do a key on engine running test and see if any codes pop up other than code 11. If they do, then the problems have to be addressed.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
Hard to say. In 86, the EFI was frequently equipped with an internally regulated alt. If this is the case, I dunno if there is a higher output option. This is often called the "2G" alt. (2nd generation) A lot of people prefer to do the "3G" conversion, as the 2G seems to be problematic.
If it has an external regulator, then you can step up the output somewhat. There were 2 case sizes, small and large. The small case is up to 65A, and the large case kicks in at 70A. They can be interchanged, but brackets and wiring is a bit different.
Small case will swap with any other small case, same for the large case. Swapping between sizes can be far more complex. Bracket, wiring and even belt size is typically different.
If it has an external regulator, then you can step up the output somewhat. There were 2 case sizes, small and large. The small case is up to 65A, and the large case kicks in at 70A. They can be interchanged, but brackets and wiring is a bit different.
Small case will swap with any other small case, same for the large case. Swapping between sizes can be far more complex. Bracket, wiring and even belt size is typically different.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 6
From: Vine Grove KY
Its the internally regulated "2g" that you speak of. I havent seen a regulator mounted anywhere, and it has a wide plug going to it with several pins in it. Im sure the parts store will have what I need. You coming up to Gary's today?
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 6
From: Vine Grove KY
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
It'll keep me occupied, which is a good thing. Somehow, I always feel a bit better when I am doing something automotive related, rather than just sitting around. Besides, I still need to get that wiper motor, and see if there's anything else on that parts truck I might want/need.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
I'll be tossing a monkey wrench in though. I'll be driving a Ford truck, but it has Mazda badges on it...... There is a chance for rain later, and I'm not 100% sure the wiper motor is the only issue. Rather be safe than sorry..... Besides, it has a better functioning A/C. Kinda nice, this time of year.....
I think I lost the front seal on the C6 pulling that lightweight load, known as dad's truck. I thought it might have been seeping a bit before, but now has a good size puddle under it, sitting in the driveway. I had been parking it around back, so puddles didn't tend to show as well......
At any rate, I still have the directions from the 1st trip. Still don't know how I read 3rd house on right, and looked left....... Of course, I didn't even bother taking them for the 2nd trip.
I think I lost the front seal on the C6 pulling that lightweight load, known as dad's truck. I thought it might have been seeping a bit before, but now has a good size puddle under it, sitting in the driveway. I had been parking it around back, so puddles didn't tend to show as well......
At any rate, I still have the directions from the 1st trip. Still don't know how I read 3rd house on right, and looked left....... Of course, I didn't even bother taking them for the 2nd trip.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
Gary and Ray, I left the code reader at the shop. If ya need to use it again, well, it's there. At least we know it works.
It's not too likely I'll need it anytime soon, and can pick it up on another trip up north. Need to go back anyways for a couple more items that just didn't feel like dealing with during the storm. We can pick that chassis pretty clean, if we keep trying......
It's not too likely I'll need it anytime soon, and can pick it up on another trip up north. Need to go back anyways for a couple more items that just didn't feel like dealing with during the storm. We can pick that chassis pretty clean, if we keep trying......
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,147
Likes: 6
From: Vine Grove KY
Update***for anyone reader through this thread. I put a new MAP sensor on, didn't seem to help anything. Put a new 75 amp alternator on. Didn't get rid of the noise I was expecting it to get rid of. I would have sworn the alternator bearings were going. I unhooked the ac and took the belt off and the noise is still there at idle...maybe power steering pump? I dunno. Sounds like a bearing going out.
We ran a test on the computer KOEO and KOER. We pulled several codes. Gary, I will let you post them since we left the paper lying around the shop somewhere that had the codes on it. But basically we need to hook up the AIR stuff first and see where that gets us.
I am so close to ripping out the fuel injection crap and putting a new intake and carb on it!!
There are one or two injectors ticking very loudly and its anoying.
We ran a test on the computer KOEO and KOER. We pulled several codes. Gary, I will let you post them since we left the paper lying around the shop somewhere that had the codes on it. But basically we need to hook up the AIR stuff first and see where that gets us.
I am so close to ripping out the fuel injection crap and putting a new intake and carb on it!!
There are one or two injectors ticking very loudly and its anoying.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
- 44: Thermactor Air Injection system inoperative (Right side).
- 34: PFE or EVP circuit has intermittently failed above the closed limit of 0.67 volts.
- 13: Cannot control RPM during ER Self-Test low RPM check.
- 77: System failed to recognize brief WOT during Dynamic Response Test (Ray error).
- 25: Knock not sensed during dynamic test.
Agreed. So far taken or spoken for: interior trim; door panels; clock: front bumper; running boards; door sill plates; glove box latch; gear indicator; under hood light; cargo light; rear window; exterior trim inc badges; right front brake line; wheel dust covers; wiper motor, arms, & pivots; wheels & tires: seat; bed; tailgate; and hood.