BTW Gary, I might want the front springs. I'm about fed up with how high those 822 springs have the front of my truck and the camber issue caused by having them. I don't have the ball joints, so camber adjustment is a bit more complex.
Also, I'd like to have the lower part of the mirrors you aren't going to use. Don't need the mirror heads, but both my arms are broke at the lower pivot.
If you don't want the bug shield on that hood, I wouldn't mind getting it, since some idiot added a 90* bend to the end of the one I had on there originally.....
The rear springs are another item I may want, kinda like the rearend.

And now back to the regularly schedualed chatter.....

 

Guys, I know ou see my thread on the Carb vs. Speed density vs MAF. I might just throw a carb and intake on it. Rogue, how hard is it to change to duraspark II? I am assuming its a vacuum advance and not a centerfugal points and spring type setup from the golden era of cars. Is it like chevy's HEI setup? just drop in, hook up a coil and go? Does it have to be tied to the guage cluster? i don't have a tach right now so thats not a big deal to me.

 

See other thread.

 

I'll ear-mark those items for you, with the possible exception of the rear springs as I'd been thinking about them. THINKING.

Also, tell me more about the 822 springs - how would they work on my truck? It has the "Ford stance" - low on one side, so I'd been thinking about comparing free length of the 4 springs I have (Explorer & Lariat) and picking a matched pair. We might want to do that anyway so you and I get as close to level as possible.

 

The 822 are the "HD" option. Prolly best suited for a supercab, 460/diesel swap, or at the bare minimum, a truck with ball joints to allow easier camber adjustment. They would also work well as "Leveling" springs in a 4x4, since all 4x4's have ball joints.
My truck sits 1" lower in front. Front tires are ~29" OD, and rears are 30.5" OD, which accounts for 3/4"...
These springs will give about a 2" lift to the front. Fine for most ball joint trucks, but for us kingpin guys, a bit too much without getting the beams "recurved".

 

Well I expected the Code 44 with the smog pump removed. Since this is the first code, it needs to be fixed first. After you think you fixed it, test the computer again.

Code 34: This is basicly telling you the computer thinks the EGR valve is stuck open. Possibilities are.... Could be a stuck open EGR valve, bad EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP) on the EGR valve, bad wires from the EVP to the EEC, no vacuum signal to the EGR solenoid to the EGR or a bad EGR solenoid etc... Each item will have to be tested and eliminated in turn. Fix the Code 44 first, and if this code remains start with this next.

Code 13: this could be a problem with the Idle Air Control (IAC). It could have carbon deposits, dirty, wiring issues from the EEC, bad o rings, bad solenoid, improper idle, etc...

Code 77: This could either be a operator error or Throttle Position sensor not reading the Wide Open Throttle. Do the KOER test again. Make sure you do the Wide Open Throttle test at the moment it's supposed to be preformed. If you do the WOT correctly and it still throws this code, check the Throttle Position sensor.

Code 25: You were supposed to tap next to the knock sensor during the dynamic test, or if you did, no reading was detected. You can test the Knock sensor with a timing light by tapping next to the sensor. Timing should retard a bit.


Fix the first code first, then re-test after every successful repair untill code 11 or system pass comes up. I will say the computer thinks the Thermactor problem (disconnection) is the highest on the list. The Code 34, and 13 problems will make the truck run like crapolla too.

 

About the IAC I will confirm that yes, this going bad can cause the engine to run like crap.

Not crapola but just powerless; I think it's what they call limp-home mode, can't get above 30 MPH.

 

I can get above 30. Ive driven it up past the 85 mark. The EGR thing is probably an easy fix, since I put a block off plate behind it the other day it might, and I say MIGHT, have something to do with it lol.

Gary, we got to get that AIR stuff back on, let me know what parts you have laying around and I will track doen anything I need after that.

 

Um, yeah the EGR blocking plate could cause it I suppose.

 

Ya know, with all the tests we did do, we didn't get around to checking the fuel PSI......
However, if the TPS is outta whack, that could 'splain the hard throttle issues. (code 77)

Like I said, I left the scanner at Gary's. Use it as needed to hopefully chase out all the gremlins.

 

Parts I have include the following:

• AIR pump, which the MPC shows to be the same as yours, but I don't know the condition of the pump
• Alt to AIR pump belt - although w/your bracket being different it may take a diff belt
• AIR manifold awa (As Well As for you young pups) hose to diverter valve. But, wait, there's more!: If the intake manifold of a 351W is bigger than that of a 302 doesn't it stand to reason that the AIR manifold is as well?
• Diverter valves
• AIR manifold gaskets - new
• Various hoses
• TAB & TAD relays of unknown quality
• EGR valves, plural, of unknown quality
• EGR valve gasket - new

But, the brackets showing in the MPC appear to be different between mine and yours, so some fabrication and/or modification may be needed.

 

Now we are working on AMC's as well????? I can't keep Pacer with all these Gremlins.

 

Just be a Matador and rambler thru....... LOL.

 

A brief update: Ray isn't coming over tonight because the truck has been running poorly today and he's just discovered that the high-pressure fuel pump is making a lot of noise. With the expectation that it is about to go and accounts for the driveability problems today he's replacing the pump in his driveway and will post the results here ASAP.

 

Gary typing for Ray: The pump fixed the stalling out problem, but ID'd another - a leaking fuel line. The return line from the fuel rail is leaking and the supply line looks like it could. Does anyone know the P/N for those lines???

Yes, I know I have the master parts catalog, but if you've not played w/one you won't know how difficult that is. I've found #'s 9J338 and 9J323 which look to be them, but will have to do a Google search to confirm it. If you can help please do.