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The 94 says enough is enough.......

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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 08:53 AM
  #31  
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thats $750 worth of pump, regulator lines and fittings though...
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 09:09 AM
  #32  
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filter


pump


regulator dealio


making good use of leftover 5/8 fuel line


yeah, we made a homemade wine bong that we put 110psi to.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 11:15 AM
  #33  
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personally i'd just ditch the stock pump crap all together and go buy a cheap *** 30-40 dollar electric pump and hook it up to the tanks pick up tube. no return lines, less hassle. put one on an old bronco i had that kept killing mechanical pumps and it worked great.

worst comes to worst with my option, you might have to buy a non efi pick up tube for the tank if it has in tank pumps.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 11:32 AM
  #34  
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With ur senario Dan, I have to pull the tanks to get the in tank pumps out, so I might as well just pull the tanks, and find the restriction and run what I have already.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 06:20 PM
  #35  
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Got it figured out!

Inside the tank, inside the housing for the fuel pump, is a check valve. I drilled a hole in it.

Only deal now is that the rear tank returns into the front. But I'll just run the front tank for now tell I get time to set up valves to return the fuel to the proper place so I can run both. I'll post pics tomorrow
 
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Old Jun 19, 2011 | 10:49 PM
  #36  
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Hey! WAIT JUST A MINUTE.......


Who was it that called the check valve? haha.


Im glad you got it figured out.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 01:49 AM
  #37  
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Welll, ya, anyways........


























Before

The "garbage"

Ready for the new stuff

Now that's what I like to see

A lot less wires now just necessary stuff like the A/C pump, power for distributor/choke, and the tach wire.

All done under the hood!!


Now for the intank mod so the fuel pressure stays steady... This works best for single tank applications. I'll let you know how it works on dual setups. But as of now I only did this to the front tank, so the rear return is going to fill the front tank.
That is a spring loaded valve. Holds about 20 psi before it open, not good for carb applications.

So I drilled a hole in it!

In order to get to that point you have to pull the "can" apart that holds the fuel pump.

I plan to do this to the rear tank too, but will add fuel shut off valves to the return line at both tanks just to be 100% sure the fuel returns to the proper tank. I have one valve already from a old project, I'll pickup another later.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 06:34 AM
  #38  
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Could this be tech with pics on FTE? I cant believe my eyes


Im glad you got it fixed. Carb looks good on there.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 06:36 AM
  #39  
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Crap what did I just turn this place into??!?!?!?
 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 06:40 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by alpha/omega
Could this be tech with pics on FTE? From someone who actually knows there head from a hole in the ground? I cant believe my eyes


Im glad you got it fixed. Carb looks good on there.
Fixed it for you
 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 06:46 AM
  #41  
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O n Kris, don't carbs look better on everything?? Lol


I guess I should get a pic of my rigged up fuel regulator, with my cut fuel rail, compression fitting adaptors.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 07:10 AM
  #42  
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Took for the first drive yesterday pulling the camper.... Pulls alot better

But the secondaries are kicking in a bit late.. they don't open up tell about 3300 rpms......

 
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 08:48 AM
  #43  
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vac secondaries?


I know as much about Carbs as Dan knows about the wiring schematics on a challenger shuttle...

So could you possibly adjust the vac needed to open up the secondaries?
 
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 09:31 AM
  #44  
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Yes, and yes, its adjustable, I have to go buy a spring kit... its about $7 for 7 springs, and if I want to get fancy, a nother $15 for a quick change cover.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 12:43 PM
  #45  
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A little piece of copper tube in place of the secondary spring works ;-)



oh and a screw in the little linkage
 
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