The camper thread! Pulling, using, equipment, maintenance!
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 0
From: Charles Town, WV
Installed a dedicated RV plug for the camper today. No more extension cords and adapters. Yayyy!
There used to be an electric stove in the basement, but I never used it. The plug was about 10' from the corner of the house where I wanted the RV plug, so the wiring from the main box in the garage was almost right where I needed it. #8 wire but too big is always better than too small. Ran 15 feet of #10 wire from the outside RV box into the basement and connected that to the existing #8. Installed a duplex 20/30A breaker to piggy back into a breaker slot in the main house panel. (no open spots, too many 220V breakers taking up all the space) Voila, I have 30 amp 110V service to the camper and can now run the AC.
The only issue was finding a breaker for the house panel, it's an obsolete ITE box and nobody carries them in a store anymore. Gotta love the internet for stuff like that!
There used to be an electric stove in the basement, but I never used it. The plug was about 10' from the corner of the house where I wanted the RV plug, so the wiring from the main box in the garage was almost right where I needed it. #8 wire but too big is always better than too small. Ran 15 feet of #10 wire from the outside RV box into the basement and connected that to the existing #8. Installed a duplex 20/30A breaker to piggy back into a breaker slot in the main house panel. (no open spots, too many 220V breakers taking up all the space) Voila, I have 30 amp 110V service to the camper and can now run the AC.
The only issue was finding a breaker for the house panel, it's an obsolete ITE box and nobody carries them in a store anymore. Gotta love the internet for stuff like that!
I've been wanting to do that for a while now. I just priced the outlets from Camping World and plan on adding one to the side of out garage soon. Also very tired of extension cords and adapters. Our trailer is a 30 amp but I'm thinking about installing a 50 amp outlet just in case we upgrade or the inlaws come over. I don't mind using a dogbone for that.
Joe28443
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 4
From: Hampstead NC
That's a must have! I got one in my garage. I wished I had one in my building so I would not have to move my camper up to plug it in. I checked on a carport for it today . 18x36 is going to run about 3k
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa, OK
I'm going to put a 30A RV outlet behind our brick mailbox on the street in front of our house. We typically park in the street due to the maneuvering problems putting the trailer on the driveway. Unfortunately, the mailbox location is about 110 feet of underground conduit away from our electric service panel inside the garage. I calculated that I need to run 6 gauge wire (3 strands) to get the proper voltage at the junction box. Wire is a bit pricey! I think this whole project will be over $350.
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
Had enough time to put two (yes two) wheels on the other day between rain storms and snap a couple pics.
Came with center caps and lugs. Looks like decent quality. I like the sidewalls on the bias ply tires! Nice and hard, this tank is going to pull like a dream now! I hope.
Came with center caps and lugs. Looks like decent quality. I like the sidewalls on the bias ply tires! Nice and hard, this tank is going to pull like a dream now! I hope.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 209
I'm going to put a 30A RV outlet behind our brick mailbox on the street in front of our house. We typically park in the street due to the maneuvering problems putting the trailer on the driveway. Unfortunately, the mailbox location is about 110 feet of underground conduit away from our electric service panel inside the garage. I calculated that I need to run 6 gauge wire (3 strands) to get the proper voltage at the junction box. Wire is a bit pricey! I think this whole project will be over $350.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,886
Likes: 3,424
From: Ohio
Nice Snow! Totally changes the look of the trailer. I changed mine out last year when I got the "new to me" trailer. I also upped the size to 225/75 15's, the C rated 205's that were on it were borderline on capacity IMO.
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
And you got the maxxis! Those are quite pricy and I hear good. Maxxis was the tires that were on mine originally, nothing really wrong with the tires just like you mentioned, boarder line loaded. I was figuring it out and my tires may have been right at or just over loaded when the TT was all loaded up. I know from my car trailer when you get a load close to the tire load limit on the trailer it doesn't handle very well. I am thinking that is what was causing my trailer sway issues.
I know one tire on our boat trailer is getting pretty worn, I may use a pair of the old wheels from the TT for the boat.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 284
Likes: 0
From: Bloomington, IL
Anyone else have to use a floor jack to lift up their load leveling bars high enough to get the right amount of links to have their load leveling hitch perpendicular to the frame?
I have always been unhappy with 3 chain links on my load leveling hitch, but that is at tight as I could get it. front end seemed to wander a bit, and the truck was upset by passing semis. With 4 links the ride and control were much improved.
My truck and TT are both around 8K. How would I know if the weight distribution bars were too tight? Other than being careful while jacking up the bars, I dont see any downside to doing this. Am I missing something?
I have always been unhappy with 3 chain links on my load leveling hitch, but that is at tight as I could get it. front end seemed to wander a bit, and the truck was upset by passing semis. With 4 links the ride and control were much improved.
My truck and TT are both around 8K. How would I know if the weight distribution bars were too tight? Other than being careful while jacking up the bars, I dont see any downside to doing this. Am I missing something?
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,886
Likes: 3,424
From: Ohio
You should be able to set the bars by raising the trailer tongue with the trailer jack. (That's where a power jack really helps!) You should not need a jack directly on the bars.
Best way to verify the setup is by using a scale. (CAT scale or the like) Second best is by measuring the truck fender before and after you hitch it up. You want the front to be the same before and after with the WD set.
Best way to verify the setup is by using a scale. (CAT scale or the like) Second best is by measuring the truck fender before and after you hitch it up. You want the front to be the same before and after with the WD set.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,886
Likes: 3,424
From: Ohio
And you got the maxxis! Those are quite pricy and I hear good. Maxxis was the tires that were on mine originally, nothing really wrong with the tires just like you mentioned, boarder line loaded. I was figuring it out and my tires may have been right at or just over loaded when the TT was all loaded up. I know from my car trailer when you get a load close to the tire load limit on the trailer it doesn't handle very well. I am thinking that is what was causing my trailer sway issues.
I know one tire on our boat trailer is getting pretty worn, I may use a pair of the old wheels from the TT for the boat.
I know one tire on our boat trailer is getting pretty worn, I may use a pair of the old wheels from the TT for the boat.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 451
Likes: 0
From: sw mich
You should be able to set the bars by raising the trailer tongue with the trailer jack. (That's where a power jack really helps!) You should not need a jack directly on the bars.
Best way to verify the setup is by using a scale. (CAT scale or the like) Second best is by measuring the truck fender before and after you hitch it up. You want the front to be the same before and after with the WD set.
Best way to verify the setup is by using a scale. (CAT scale or the like) Second best is by measuring the truck fender before and after you hitch it up. You want the front to be the same before and after with the WD set.
Joe28443
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,163
Likes: 4
From: Hampstead NC
Well got ready to lack my new to me trailer to head to yogibear with the family and haul it for the first time with the propride. Went out to it to find wet carpet and smell that would take your breath, i called the place I bought it from to schedule an appointment tomorrow. I almost cancelled my trip but I had already paid for it so I went ahead. I bought plug ins and everything else I could find . It seems it leaks with the slides closed. So I am packed up and ready to leave in the morning to go home and take it to the dealer.tge ride down was not that bad though, the ex is a dog on the take off with .8500lbs behind her. I will be needing a new tranny soon I can already tell. I am still tweaking on the propride and in contact with a fellow FTEer Chad (red ex) to trying and work some things out. All in all it was a good weekend if I could get past the smell.
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
I don't have any slides on mine but I know when it comes to big seals like that (like mentioned above) any little thing can cause a leak. Leaves, pine needles, piece of rope, even just a little deformation in the seal itself. Sometimes seals stick to what they are "sealing" and get pulled out of their track, even a tiny bit can cause a leak.
My brother and his buddies rented a pop up one year to go to some shin dig and I was surprised how messed up the seals were every where on it. When they were leaving I told them they better hope it doesn't rain. lol
My brother and his buddies rented a pop up one year to go to some shin dig and I was surprised how messed up the seals were every where on it. When they were leaving I told them they better hope it doesn't rain. lol