Duraspark II Conversion - How To
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 134
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From: Texas
I was wondering if you or anyone else has the photos that dyingtolive posted at the beginning of this thread that showed the steps to do this conversion. I'm can't figure out how to do it without photos. I want to convert my 86 F150 4.9 over to the Duraspark II system. I can't find the wiring harness in any of the junk yards. Does anyone sell this harness new? Thank you.
I have never found a full harness new, but in this conversion always seemed to be a little excessive. I just did the "dirt cheap ignition" using a durispark II dizzy with a gm 350 ignition module. Ive done that to a few vehicles now and its always been rock solid. I just put the module on an old computer heat sync and mount it to the side wall. The only thing that kills those modules is heat and it will never get hot there.
Hope that helps. Gl with your conversion.
New User
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
DURASPARK II
I have never found a full harness new, but in this conversion always seemed to be a little excessive. I just did the "dirt cheap ignition" using a durispark II dizzy with a gm 350 ignition module. Ive done that to a few vehicles now and its always been rock solid. I just put the module on an old computer heat sync and mount it to the side wall. The only thing that kills those modules is heat and it will never get hot there.
Hope that helps. Gl with your conversion.
Hope that helps. Gl with your conversion.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
Summit sells it new, however they do charge a pretty penny for it.
American Autowire Duraspark Ignition Harnesses 500918 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
American Autowire Duraspark Ignition Harnesses 500918 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
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From: Boise, Idaho
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 134
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From: Texas
The 2nd part of that page with the gm350 module is the one I use. The module is so cheap you can carry a spare in the glove box. This setup is rock solid if you use a nice fat heat sync and mount it away from the heat of the engine. I like the guys new idea about putting in the cab but in my truck there is not a bunch of room to do that.
As for wire to run all this stuff. I just use a junk extension cord and strip it down to the 3 wires it has. Its so much cheaper than buying spools and you get a ton of it for dirt cheap. a 100ft cord is only 17$ and you get 300ft of wire total. And it take 120v if you play around in the house
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 134
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From: Texas
Gas and oil are present in every garage I have ever worked in. Yes extension cords are present as well. Also no spool wire is not "rated for gas an oil" so doing you own wiring does not carry a warranty lol.
But I also wrap my work and protect it with wire loom. Its better than the crap they used at the factory which as everyone knows in the 80s was junk. It cracks, breaks and separates with astonishing regularity. Let alone the complete lack of corrosion resistance leading to entire harness needing to be replaced.
Use the cord wire you will be fine. Its designed for 8-10 amps at 120v and is also has a corrosion resistant coating internally when you use and outdoor cord.
But I also wrap my work and protect it with wire loom. Its better than the crap they used at the factory which as everyone knows in the 80s was junk. It cracks, breaks and separates with astonishing regularity. Let alone the complete lack of corrosion resistance leading to entire harness needing to be replaced.
Use the cord wire you will be fine. Its designed for 8-10 amps at 120v and is also has a corrosion resistant coating internally when you use and outdoor cord.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 134
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From: Texas
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 134
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From: Texas
It seemed like a good idea
One 10mm bolt takes it out then you can swap the module with the backup in the glove box if needed. Swap time is only a couple min. So if is ever does pop you know exactly what to do and get to smirk as it wont need to be towed by a chevy lol.
One 10mm bolt takes it out then you can swap the module with the backup in the glove box if needed. Swap time is only a couple min. So if is ever does pop you know exactly what to do and get to smirk as it wont need to be towed by a chevy lol.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 134
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From: Texas
Thats nicely done I like it!
Bet they are ready to go single wire alternator now with that voltage regulator stuck up in there too. I went for a 3 wire system but all in one loom. I was thinking about going built in starter solenoid too. Hide every wire possible.
Like the wires for my oil pressure reg and temp sensor were in the loom with my dizzy wires.
Bet they are ready to go single wire alternator now with that voltage regulator stuck up in there too. I went for a 3 wire system but all in one loom. I was thinking about going built in starter solenoid too. Hide every wire possible.
Like the wires for my oil pressure reg and temp sensor were in the loom with my dizzy wires.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 2,031
Likes: 72
anyone happen to know the part number for the Duraspark II control module with the blue strain relief connector. I am guessing with it and the harness from American Wire/Painless/Summit, that would be all that was necessary to do this conversion.
To answer my own question, would this be the correct module at $43 -http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...patibilityTab_
To answer my own question, would this be the correct module at $43 -http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...patibilityTab_