Maybe I should start another thread on this? I think I will so's to not bore the rest of the folks.

 

I took dad's truck for a bit longer drive tonight. Power steering seems to be working great, and no signs of leakage.
I didn't go too far, stayed in town with it, just in case. I did get a bulb to replace the front marker/turn signal, which cured the non-functional signal. I would have never guessed a single bulb from a box cost $2, and a bubble pack of 2 bulbs was $3.50. I bought the twin pack.....

Was nice to drive the old truck again, even though it still needs work.

 

RW - You're working up to a drive up north, I can tell.

Btw, you are going to replace the u-joints on this shaft before you put it in aren't you? I have two of them to pick from so we can check the joints, but seriously doubt we'll find one that has two good ones.

 

I'm not sure the driveshaft will work. I seem to be getting a 3" difference between mine and dad's truck.... Have to do some further checking, to make sure I'm not seeing things.
I dunno if the engine/trans sits further forward, or if there's a difference in length between the FE C6 and 300 C6.... Been a bit too busy with other stuff to check any further, but it looks like the 74 has a ~3" longer driveshaft than the 80+ models.
This could complicate the swap a bit. I have a pinion seal and crush sleeve already, so swapping the yoke isn't that big of a deal. Just gotta decide which truck will get the 3.50 gear. Kinda thinking of putting the factory 3.25 back in dad's truck, just for the sake of originality.

As for the drive north, I'm torn on whether I should replace the coolant hoses before trying anything that far. The upper hose looks a bit "swell"..... Do 1, might as well do them all. Well, the bypass hose is a bit more complicated...... Not to mention swelled.
I know all the coolant hoses are a bit long in the tooth.
Also, I need to check the radiator. Doesn't seem to be leaking, but sure has plenty of green "fuzz" on the tanks.....

But yeah, I'm working up to making a drive up that way.

 

Why not have the block sleeved? Is this the only cylinder that's out that far?

 

Since I have another block that's not been bored I'll probably go that way. And, it doesn't appear that this cylinder is the only one that size, but I'll know more today.

 

Complicate?! I don't think my lathe is big enough to saw the two shafts apart and make one 3" longer. But, if you don't mind them being slightly cocked......

Since I toasted one engine recently I'm a BIG fan of lots of cooling, fresh coolant, and good hoses. That's a bunch cheaper than rebuilding.

 

By complicate, I meant it would require swapping pinion yoke. I have the stuff that *should* be replaced when the yoke is removed, just not sure I want to go that far....

Yeah, I'd hate to have a hose let loose somewhere along the way, especially in this weather......
The hoses aren't that costly, but the ~4 gallon cooling system is a bit pricey to refill with fresh coolant. I'm hoping to do all that at the same time as the intake swap, to minimize the possibility of coolant getting into the freshly changed oil. Besides, to replace the bypass hose, either the intake or water pump has to come off. At least a 2" piece of 5/8" hose is cheap, but man is it in a bad position.

 

What have I done to my ute today?

WELL...
I recently had a knock in the engine, so I planned for the worst and sent one of my other Clevelands to the engine builer's to get machined. While it was there I though it'd be the smart thing to do to make it a 410ci (4x4.040), just, well, umm...just cos.

I put it together and got it going last week. No dramas. Then, next day, no spark. Poo.

After checking everything, I decided to change th coil. I had to work the next 5 days so I let her rest. Came back this week, changed the coil, she ran. Just to satisfy my curiosity I put the old coil back in, she ran. ooooo....kayyyy.

Drove her around yesterday, no issues. I've been gentle on her cos basically everything that moves in that engine is brand new.
I spent yesterday evening clean my old house before I rent it out to a mate. Just after midnight (this morn), no spark, again.

Today I tried changing coils, nothing. then I took the coil lead off the dizzy and put it straight onto a plug. I got one spark when I first kicked it, then during cranking I got nothing.
I got a factory dizzy, wired it up to the coil, earthed the body of it and spun it (with the key 'on'), heaps of spark.
This is an MSD dizzy so i expected it to be bulletproof. but now I'm putting a factory one back in. I'm working outside and it's freakin cold out here today, the wind is goin straight thru me. I slot the factory dizzy in but there really isnt much room around it, I cant get a socket on an extension, I'll have to use a spanner but room is limited cos some 'tard put a cylinderhead and A/C setup in the way.

I've given up for today, it's doin my head in.

 

I hooked up a CD player, and then fixed my muffler pipe.

 

We had judt finished installing an automatic transmission form a 94 into my 85 and tried it out today. My Straight 6 has the horsepower, but now I need to get a bypass circuit or else its useless. It will hardly climb a hill right now.

 

Well, crap. Hit a bit of a snag on dad's truck tonight.
Went over to take it a car wash to spray off the frame (again) and try to balst off a little crud under the hood while I was there, along with more crud from the paint.
It's had an intermittant miss all along, and I suspected the points were about closed. After fiddling with the points for way longer than I anticipated, I ended up swapping in a different set just to get it fired up.
I did get it the car wash, and gave it a good spraying off underneath, under the hood, and on the outside. I was very careful under the hood, trying to avoid getting water near the dist, but not quite successful. Dried it out, and fought with it to fire the coil. Condensor issues.
Got it back to my buddies and run it for about 5 minutes holding around 1500 RPM to build the battery back up (lazy alt, doesn't charge very well below 1000 RPM). When I shut it off, the driver side exhaust manifold was glowing. Looks like the intake is going to have to come off.....
Dad swapped the DS head a few years back. As he spent many years working as a line mechanic at a Ford truck dealer, he knows a lot of tricks. As such, I know beyond any doubt, when he swapped the head, he did not remove the intake to do so. I bet the intake gasket is leaking. Kinda a good news/bad news thing. I wanted to swap the intake out for a 4bbl, now it looks like have an added reason to pick that HEAVY monster off. FE intakes *only* weigh in at around 80 LBS. Hence, the reason many "old timers" pull a head without removing the intake first. This was one of the last Ford engines that was made in a manner that this is even possible. I have actually seen dad remove both heads, and leave the intake in place. Of course, the heads aren't exactly light themselves, but there's not as much to them as *most* big block V8 heads, since they meet the intake well under the valve covers......

 

RW - No chance you can get it here to use the shop crane? As I've told you before, I remember all too well installing the 4 bbl intake on my 390, but I was probably 25 then. Sat in the engine compartment on the inside of the fender. That dude is every bit as heavy as you said, and its gonna be a bear to get out w/o the crane. And even if you go back w/an aluminum 4 bbl manifold it will be tough to line up w/o guide pins.

 

I gotta source an intake first. Dad *had* one a while back, no telling where it may have gone. It too was cast iron. The aluminum intake can top 30LBS....

I had every intention of using an engine hoist to remove the old one, as well as install the new one if it was iron. Aluminum intakes are a bit more "fiddly", since you have to remove the dowel pin(s) to use them, unless you somehow come across a factory aluminum one. Rare and typically pricey, but they do exist.....

I've swapped them out before, solo and by hand. I think I was still in my 20's at the time. I also swapped the heads at the same time. My back was sore for at least a week afterwards.....
Dad refers to these as a "2 men and a boy" item. It takes 2 men and a boy to lift them. Really need 3 men, but space limits the 3rd to being a small boy......

 

Guess you are watching CL, but I'll do the same. In fact, I'll add a search to my app on my iphone to watch for FE intakes. UPDATE: Two in Wichita CL - one Streetmaster and one Performer.

And, sounds like you have an engine hoist available. Only way to go. Guess you also have an adapter for the carb bolts?