I took apart the 6.0 from the new 03 Excursion I just bought to see what was wrong with it. Already replaced the it with the motor from my 04 I totaled on Easter.

 

Replaced pads and rotors on my truck Saturday. Old ones were warped baaaad....pads were pretty decent though. Regreased the bearings and used them in the new rotors (which already had races installed, saved me some pain in the rear) since they're only 6-8 months old.

Difference is day and night....no more pulsating, no more shaking, no more feeling like the truck is gonna split in two when I touch the brakes...

I used marine grease, which says it's good for trailer wheel bearings and such. Says not to use it for disc brake bearings, but if it's good enough for a trailer...we'll see

 

Friday hauled 6 yards of mulch for the house. and then Sunday took valve covers off to repaint and put new seals on.. they look good and will put them back on in a few days

 

I think the issue is that disc brakes always touch a bit and the rotors and therefore the hubs get hot. Marine grease is good for wet environments but not hot ones. Disc brake wheel bearing grease is just the opposite.

 

Agreed 100%. Disc brakes cause the hubs to run a bit warmer than drum brakes. This extra heat can lead to lessor rated bearing grease thinning out too much, resulting in the bearings getting hotter than normal. In extreme cases, the bearings can overheat ruining them, the hub, and spindle.

Most boat trailers lack any form of brakes, but the hubs still get a bit warm from running down the road. Backing into the water cools them down, and causes a minor bit of water to enter. Marine grade grease is designed to be able to absorb this water without loosing the lubricating quality needed to protect the bearings. But, it still has to be replaced every so often. Most reccomend repacking the trailer wheel bearings every 1-2 years depending on how often it sees the water.

I use disc brake rated wheel bearing grease exclusively on automotive stuff. Even for greasing the chassis and u-joints. I am a bit ****, though.....
By the time I get to the last 1/3-1/4 of the tub, it's been opened so many times I no longer trust it for wheel bearings, so it gets relegated to the truck toolbox, for greasing the trailer ball everytime I hook up to a trailer that's going more than just a few feet.

 

Today was get-the-existing-parts-truck-out-of-the-shop day 'cause tomorrow I'm hoping to bring the "new" parts truck in. RW wants the differential so I learned how to pull a 9" apart. But, the right brake drum was rusted to the axle, so out came the hot wrench again and off the drum came. But, then the axle didn't want to come out, and then the pumpkin didn't want to let go. To make a long story short, I prevailed.

Then my neighbor came over and we moved the truck out and took the bed off. All ready for the HO!

 

i have got the truck striped down and brought the cab back to my house tonight i started getting a plan together for the rust on the cab roof here are some pictures

 

Hobbystock98 - Wish you were close to me 'cause I have a good cab that I'll be taking to scrap soon.

 

Wow, that is rough looking! Good luck!!

 

Hobbystock, I am about to work on my rain-gutters too. They look like they could be cleaned out and re-caulked/sealed. I am going to tackle it this weekend in nothing else comes up. I'll try to take some pictures and post them when I'm finished. Keep posting pictures of your progress too Hobbystock.

 

the other side of the truck looks worse than this i am giving serious thougth to going to a junk yard and finding anouther roof im not sure of what tittle issues i will have if i swap cabs

 

Yeah, I'm wondering the same thing since the VIN is part of the cab.

As for what I did to my pickup today, I brought yet-another one home. It's the '85 Lariat w/the 351W HO. And, I got the Edelbrock carb awa the Performer 289 manifold, although it obviously won't go on this engine.

Anyway, got the truck unloaded and into the shop. Pulled the plugs to put oil in the cylinders and discovered 8 of the blackest, sootiest plugs I've ever seen. That Holley's running rich. And, btw, those were Autolite #26 plugs - wow are they long. Are the heads on this engine different than the D7 or D8 heads I'm used to? Why the different plugs?

Anyway, I'm pretty sure I'll put that Edelbrock on if the engine's good since the Holley has more connections to it and doodads on it than I've seen. In fact, the whole engine is a maze of vacuum hoses, Thermactor system hoses, and even a vacuum operated heat riser. All that stuff will go if the engine is sound.

As for the oil in the cylinders, wanted to use PB Blaster but the little red tube that comes w/it wouldn't reach into the cylinders. Discovered that the red tube fits in the line used for air shocks, so cut a foot of it and put lots of PB Blaster in each cylinder.

 

Basically you take on the title of the "new" cab. Depending on where you get the cab from and/or where your other one goes, you either swap titles, or just take on the new one. You will have to re-register the truck. That is what I came across when I was researching it anyway.

 

Well the other day I managed to make one of the sides on my bed collapse after some good wheelin'. Dont know why anyone would of ever thought that making a wood bottom for a bed in a truck would be a good idea. They are good for nothing but holding moisture, rotting out, making the surrounding metal rust quicker!

 

thanks im gonna call our wonderful fl dmv tomorrow and see what they say i think that will point me to my next step