When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Replaced middle ignition switch and lubed up the key cylinder.
Started making the replacement 12 awg power wires to the ignition/fuseblock/accessory lighting locations.
Replaced the original 30 year old rear shocks- then started spraying down the fronts with PB blaster in preparation for those.
Tried to fix the wipers by reflowing the solder in the back of the wiper control module, but it's still FUBAR.
I haven't done anything "to" my truck today, but I did something "for" it. I opened a pair of boxes from my buddy Kyle - this guy:
The boxes contained two 80/81 door panels in the best condition I've seen in a long while, as well as the metal "woodgrain" trim for them - which I can use as a template for making my own. In addition there was a wiper and headlight ****, plus a keyed hood release. And, on a whim, I tried Rusty's door key and it opens and locks the hood release.
Drove it today. I'm really enjoying that manual choke. Even sitting for a few days at 25-45 degrees. 3/4 closed, 2 pumps and it starts faster than any EFI rig around it. Leave it on 1/2 choke for 4-5 minutes and it's up to full operating temperature. Took about 15 minutes to fully warm up with that electric choke! on another note I decided to take it on the freeway today. Sure drives nice since I readjusted the steering box a while back.
I think you should go get a lottery ticket. What are the odds that would work?
Those panels are not even cleaned up. They do not seem brittle at all. A heat gun may take the little dent out of the one panel.
I'm not big on lottery tickets, but the odds of that working are quite slim. So I now know what key/tumblers I'll use for Dad's truck and will swap others out to Rusty.
As for the panels, they do have small dents. I'm wondering if I could take that section from a panel w/o a dent and glue it behind the dent - after heating the dent to make it pliable. Or, maybe a thin piece of aluminum glued behind it?
Drove it today. I'm really enjoying that manual choke. Even sitting for a few days at 25-45 degrees. 3/4 closed, 2 pumps and it starts faster than any EFI rig around it. Leave it on 1/2 choke for 4-5 minutes and it's up to full operating temperature. Took about 15 minutes to fully warm up with that electric choke! on another note I decided to take it on the freeway today. Sure drives nice since I readjusted the steering box a while back.
Well, oddly enough Rusty's e-choke didn't do well today and I was thinking maybe it is time for a manual one. And then I checked and the tranny's kickdown rod was jammed between the carb and the link that opens the choke at WOT. Now that the rod has been secured out of the way (this carb doesn't have the linkage for the kickdown), all is well and there's no reason to convert to a manual choke.
Well, oddly enough Rusty's e-choke didn't do well today and I was thinking maybe it is time for a manual one. And then I checked and the tranny's kickdown rod was jammed between the carb and the link that opens the choke at WOT. Now that the rod has been secured out of the way (this carb doesn't have the linkage for the kickdown), all is well and there's no reason to convert to a manual choke.
I kept having the problem with the Edelbrock with the throttle cable, it would lean up against the choke linkages and bind them all up. That sure got annoying and threw me curve ***** for a while!
I kept having the problem with the Edelbrock with the throttle cable, it would lean up against the choke linkages and bind them all up. That sure got annoying and threw me curve ***** for a while!
I've modified the factory bracket to get the throttle cable where it should be with the aftermarket intake. It is the intake which is the source of the problem as it repositions the carb and the bracket isn't right. So, I can see how the linkage could cause a problem.
I've modified the factory bracket to get the throttle cable where it should be with the aftermarket intake. It is the intake which is the source of the problem as it repositions the carb and the bracket isn't right. So, I can see how the linkage could cause a problem.
Yeah, I never had that problem with the factory iron intake.
I started up the truck this morning to see how she does in the cold. Started fine then died when I tried to go in reverse. Scratched my head a bit then realized I had fixed the parking brake and it was on... Released it and all is well..
I also did some work on the K9 Car -
Painted the new console parts, started to fit the overhead console and examined the K9 Cage in the event I decide to remove and paint it. I also picked up a stripe remover wheel to get the remaining adhesive residue off.
The Ozone generator, along with Auto Vaccine got the last of the dog funk out!
In looking at the vehicle, it would be cheaper to paint it white, but I'm REALLY leaning towards flat black. Saw a SUV on Chicago PD that was flat black...
I also think I'm going to paint the 85 F150 flat black..
11-12-2014, 10:56 PM
Now that the rod has been secured out of the way (this carb doesn't have the linkage for the kickdown), all is well and there's no reason to convert to a manual choke. 
