Think how much more aware of you and your stops and turns the other drivers will be. Therefore, how much safer you will be. And, it makes the whole truck look newer.

 

Oh yeah, took about 29 years off the looks of the back of the truck lol.

 

I swapped my leaking Saginaw PS pump today.

$40.99 and a quart of Mercon at Advance
Loaner puller didn't come with a 3/8-16 bolt to put the pulley back on.

 

Not a bad price, Jim. But, you don't have a spare 3/8-16 sitting around?

 

I'm basically 'on the road'.
Bought a cheap ratchet set, with the pump, to keep in the truck.
A 2 1/2" all threaded bolt with nut and a grade 8 fender washer? No.

So used to having a shop with a full toolbox, bins and bins of hardware, fittings, wire, shrink tube, floor jack, compressor....

I got it done, but don't like how secure (or not) the return line is.
There's no pressure, but still..

 

Ahhh! On the road. Now I understand. Glad you got it done.

 

Heater Core. 1980 Dealer Air. Someone was in there before me. Pulled the dash pad and Upper inside and right side nuts were missing. The upper inside nut was replaced and I see now why they left it out, without 2 universals and 2 short extensions you are not getting it back on or off. you can see it, but not get your hand between the firewall and the dealer AC unit to do anything with it. The right one was tight behind the inside ac blower, but it's in. Only took me about 2 hours.


Now to figure out why the outside blower only gives me low and medium.

 

That is strange.
Usually the resistor pack fails and you only have high, and no intermediate speeds.

I would still be looking at the resistor pack screwed into the plenum..
There is a thermal fuse on that board.
Poking around with a meter should show you where current is not getting through.

 

I'm guessing there is a connection problem with High.

 

Continuity on all contacts in the resistor pack and back to the funky relay pack-thing added by the dealer. I'm assuming it's somewhere between that relay and the switch, probably in the pigtail for the blower switch.
It has to be in the factory HVAC circuit. the Dealer Air blower works on all fan speeds. the problem is, the factory switch pigtail was cut, this double relay pack was wired in(with good connections, not those push-lock things) and them wired to the factory HVAC blower circuit. The relays seem to switch power from the switch to whatever blower is selected, depending on the microswitch in the climate controls being activated. However, all of the wires were wrapped in the wonderful Ford cloth tape crap and I cannot isolate them too well to test individually. If I could find a wiring diagram, I'd eliminate that relay pack and put 2 standard relays in it's place.

Why couldn't have the buyer in 80 just spent the extra 40 bucks for Factory AC???????

 

Is there a name on the AC system? Maybe whoever made it might have a diagram. The setup sounds similar to the Mercedes-Benz AC systems we used to install on the 114 and 115 bodies at the dealership, they had a changeover switch operated by either a lever on early versions or a vacuum system on later ones. It wasn't until the 123 body debut in 1977 that the lower series cars got factory AC.

It could be that a customer wanted AC, but they had nothing in stock with factory AC.

 

What I did with one of my trucks, Rusty, yesterday: Drove to meet Bruno to hand of the Wimpy exhaust manifolds for our friend James. Drove on to Muskogee for the meet with the gentleman from which I was to buy tires and wheels for the '50 Chevy. But he was running late so went on south to his place, and then home. Round trip of 170 miles with nary a hickup. Apparently I've peeled the onion enough to reach the reliable zone. Not to say there aren't more layers to peel, but those can wait for another day.

And, along the way I've learned a few things about Rusty. First, he likes to run. I was ahead of schedule yesterday so was in no hurry and yet several times I found myself running 70 when I intended to run 65. Second, the factory gauges are very stable and accurate now that I have a good ICVR on them, although the aftermarket gauges provide a large level of comfort as I can compare one to another if there is an anomaly. Third, the gas gauge is predictable as it takes 25 miles to hit 3/4 from Full, 75 miles to 1/2, and 125 miles to 1/4 - on a 14 gallon tank. But as yet I haven't had the guts to see how far I can go to empty.

I say all of that to say to those out there who are peeling the onion on their truck, keep on peeling. Eventually you will get to a point where you can trust your truck. Trust me, from the $500 purchase of Rusty the layers have been many, inc rebuilding the rear diff and both drive shafts, replacing the radiator, adding a headlight relay, replacing the alternator, tuning the carb, replacing the window felts, cleaning and painting the door panels, replacing the carpet, changing out the seat, sealing the cargo light, and on and on. Yes, there are things yet to do, but I can now drive him without fear of not getting there - or back.

 

I lived in muskogee in the late 80s.
...

Tinkered with the truck more today. Blower now works on med and hi...no low and only when grounded to the frame. Not the ground wire. Yay!!! I was linked to the diagram so tomorrow is VM and test light day.

 

An Okie from Muskogee? What took you away?

 

Parents moved. Was an interesting town. The economic divide is /was almost scary.north side was affluent.... South .....was not. I do remember 3dog night playing in the big park over the hill by porter..dad worked for the big contract packer just over the river to the east of town.