Do I need to remove the plastic fender trim? If so how do I remove the plastic phillip screws Last but not least where is the back of the fender liner fastened? I see a vertical hole with no screw at allThanks for any and all help

 

I removed both of my plastic inner fender liners when I removed all of my exhaust manifold studs. I don't recall the exact placement or number of fasteners for them but for the Phillips head ones, use the screwdriver at the same time pry outward on the backside of the fastener head, they will come out. Take your time and every attachment point will be obvious as you work your way around the liner, be sure to also remove the clips holding the parts to the liners inside the engine bay. Once you get the liners out (the warmer the better for the plastic liners to be manipulated) it's a good idea to also remove the front shocks and their top mounts from the frame, 3 bolts on each side for the mounts plus the bottom shock bolts. Then you will have a lot more room to work.
How many broken studs are you looking at? Do you plan to replace all 20 of them? What hardware will you be using? Ditching the factory manifolds for headers?
Here are a few of threads that cover the process to some degree.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ll-w-pics.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-dummies.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-dummies.html

 

Thanks Tom Will give the Trim another go tomorrow after it warms up I see two broke on Drivers side; but am going to replace all. I have a stainless steel stud kit from Metric Screw and Tool Co

 

Good luck Moe, do you have access to a MIG welder? It makes removing those broken flush or recesses studs a lot easier.
Keep us in the loop as you make progress on this job, plenty of folks here would like to hear your review on that stud kit, I'll bet.

Hey, it looks like you missed a letter in your location there Moe........"can I buy a B"?

 

Yes,I have a Mig here Tom and corrected the M issue Appreciate your help Ken

 

These exhaust manifolds are being a bear They are really rusted Nothing left to work with Have 5 broken on drivers side;two below the surface I've been torching what sticks out of the manifold off Front bottom is giving me fits Need a different shaped torch head Even the y pipe nuts are completly rusted away Am just going to torch the 2 bolts on the passenger side tomorrow Had enough today! How long doe these bolts last and would the Banks header kit still break bolts? Thanks

 

I can't say how long the Banks headers bolts will last but mine at 4 years with plenty of heavy towing and heat still look like new. The headers themselves are made from 410 stainless which does develop a thin layer of oxidation over time but everything on them is still ship shape.

 

I have the same problem with my 2004 6.8L Excursion. I think at least four of the exhaust manifold studs have broken off. You'd think there would be an exhaust leak, but I don't hear a darn thing, right after starting or driven under load. I tend to drive like an old grandpa, so maybe if I really got on it?


My local dealer quoted me like $1800.00 to replace both exhaust manifolds and all the studs. I had a bit of "sticker shock" from that, especially since, like I said, I don't hear a darn thing as far as an exhaust leak.


The manifolds themselves are "quite expensive" are they not? I looked into headers, but I'm not sure I want to go that route. I have lots of experience wrenching on cars and trucks in my younger days, but I'm not so young anymore. I think I'd prefer a younger Ford technician do the work for me. And I can afford it, but $1800.00? Really?


I have this odd desire to slap a supercharger on that V-10. God help me I don't know why. Probably from reading through this forum!!!

 

Yeah, those stock manifolds are stupid expensive, especially considering how restrictive they are and the broken stud issues to boot! The Banks and Thorleys headers are expensive but still cheaper than the factory logs, and the labor should be the same for each as its just about the same amount of work involved either way.