My 2006 ford f250 turbo diesel wont restart.
#1
My 2006 ford f250 turbo diesel wont restart.
I have a 2006 Ford F250 Turbo Diesel super Duty 4X4, that is giving me issues. It will not show any codes and when I drive it to the store for example and come back out apporximately 10-15 minutes later, the truck will not start. In fact it will take about 20-30 minutes to restart. It turns over and sounds like it is not getting any fuel and wont start.
I am hearing that it might be the ignition module which cost approximately $1500 to fix. I am also hearing it might be the fuel pump, or the oil pump. I am completely frustrated and lost. I have been stranted 6x in the last week and I am getting the run around from dealer shops.
Does anybody have an idea of what this might be and I wonder if anybody has experienced anything like this with their truck.
Thanks
I am hearing that it might be the ignition module which cost approximately $1500 to fix. I am also hearing it might be the fuel pump, or the oil pump. I am completely frustrated and lost. I have been stranted 6x in the last week and I am getting the run around from dealer shops.
Does anybody have an idea of what this might be and I wonder if anybody has experienced anything like this with their truck.
Thanks
#3
No-starts can come from many different problems. You need to do some methodical troubleshooting or you will have a HUGE repair cost by just changing parts.
There is a no-start troubleshooting thread in the Tech Folder (second thread down from the top of) that will help you test the more common things.
First - what code reader are you using to check for codes?
Second - what are your maintenance practices - specifically with fuel filters, and oil and filters? What oil are you using and how many miles since the last change? What BRAND of filters are you using?
Third, I am skeptical about the ignition module or the fuel pump being the issue with the behaviour you describe. The oil pump that you are being told about is no doubt the HIGH PRESSURE oil pump (HPOP) and not the low pressure pump (LPOP), but on a 2006 these pumps are pretty reliable. If you crank a lot and ruin your batteries, you can aso damage your Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM). It is an expensive part, so make sure your batteries are healthy. Best way to do this is to charge them up, and then have them INDIVIDUALLY load tested at a good shop (dealership, battery shop, or even an autoparts store).
It also sounds like you MIGHT have a leak in the high pressure oil system. The common leak points in a 2006 model year are
1. Discharge fitting off of the high pressure oil pump (HPOP - called the snap-to-connect (STC) fitting
2. Dummy plugs in the oil rail
3. Stand-pipes in the oil rail
4. Injectors
Again, the no-start thread can help you determine IF you have a leak and WHERE the leak is coming from if you do have a leak.
If you want to be capable of troubleshooting your 6.0L vehicle (now and in the future), you need gauges and a scanner of some sort. The ScanGaugeII is a good tool, but is VERY poor at reading codes ForScan with an OBDII adapter is MUCH more capable. The full version is for a Windows laptop, the Lite version is for a smartphone. Downloads are free for the full version and $6 or so for the Lite version. Adapters can be from $35 to $145.
No matter what scan tool you buy (if you decide to do so), you will need to add a sending unit and a gauge for fuel pressure and exhaust gas temperature. These are important things to watch, and Ford did not give you a way to do so.
This is probably not related to your no-start, but MANY 6.0L engines are operating w/ too low of fuel pressure. This can damage injectors over time. There is an easy fix ... buy and install a stiffer spring (from Ford) for the fuel pressure regulator. This is important for lomg-term reliability IMO.
Please answer the questions from earlier in the post, read up, start troubleshooting, then post back.
We (this forum) have part numbers for most of the things you may be buying and can provide specific help on installing components.
Edit - for your convenience here are links, but it would be to your benefit to know where the Tech folder is and what is in it!
Tech Folder:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html
No-Start thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...condition.html
There is a no-start troubleshooting thread in the Tech Folder (second thread down from the top of) that will help you test the more common things.
First - what code reader are you using to check for codes?
Second - what are your maintenance practices - specifically with fuel filters, and oil and filters? What oil are you using and how many miles since the last change? What BRAND of filters are you using?
Third, I am skeptical about the ignition module or the fuel pump being the issue with the behaviour you describe. The oil pump that you are being told about is no doubt the HIGH PRESSURE oil pump (HPOP) and not the low pressure pump (LPOP), but on a 2006 these pumps are pretty reliable. If you crank a lot and ruin your batteries, you can aso damage your Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM). It is an expensive part, so make sure your batteries are healthy. Best way to do this is to charge them up, and then have them INDIVIDUALLY load tested at a good shop (dealership, battery shop, or even an autoparts store).
It also sounds like you MIGHT have a leak in the high pressure oil system. The common leak points in a 2006 model year are
1. Discharge fitting off of the high pressure oil pump (HPOP - called the snap-to-connect (STC) fitting
2. Dummy plugs in the oil rail
3. Stand-pipes in the oil rail
4. Injectors
Again, the no-start thread can help you determine IF you have a leak and WHERE the leak is coming from if you do have a leak.
If you want to be capable of troubleshooting your 6.0L vehicle (now and in the future), you need gauges and a scanner of some sort. The ScanGaugeII is a good tool, but is VERY poor at reading codes ForScan with an OBDII adapter is MUCH more capable. The full version is for a Windows laptop, the Lite version is for a smartphone. Downloads are free for the full version and $6 or so for the Lite version. Adapters can be from $35 to $145.
No matter what scan tool you buy (if you decide to do so), you will need to add a sending unit and a gauge for fuel pressure and exhaust gas temperature. These are important things to watch, and Ford did not give you a way to do so.
This is probably not related to your no-start, but MANY 6.0L engines are operating w/ too low of fuel pressure. This can damage injectors over time. There is an easy fix ... buy and install a stiffer spring (from Ford) for the fuel pressure regulator. This is important for lomg-term reliability IMO.
Please answer the questions from earlier in the post, read up, start troubleshooting, then post back.
We (this forum) have part numbers for most of the things you may be buying and can provide specific help on installing components.
Edit - for your convenience here are links, but it would be to your benefit to know where the Tech folder is and what is in it!
Tech Folder:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ch-folder.html
No-Start thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...condition.html
The following 2 users liked this post by bismic:
#5
HPOP Removal and component replacements
Thank you guys so much
I have found out that of course it is my HPOP and I need to know if you really need to use the OTC 303-755 Quick release coupling disconnect tool? I have read many forums and have not heard anything about this tool. according to Ford it is requried to work on the HPOP? HELP! please
I have found out that of course it is my HPOP and I need to know if you really need to use the OTC 303-755 Quick release coupling disconnect tool? I have read many forums and have not heard anything about this tool. according to Ford it is requried to work on the HPOP? HELP! please
#6
2006 Ford 250 Super Duty 4 X 4 Diesel PU TK
I have a 2006 Ford F250 Turbo Diesel super Duty 4X4, that is giving me issues. It will not show any codes and when I drive it to the store for example and come back out apporximately 10-15 minutes later, the truck will not start. In fact it will take about 20-30 minutes to restart. It turns over and sounds like it is not getting any fuel and wont start.
I am hearing that it might be the ignition module which cost approximately $1500 to fix. I am also hearing it might be the fuel pump, or the oil pump. I am completely frustrated and lost. I have been stranted 6x in the last week and I am getting the run around from dealer shops.
Does anybody have an idea of what this might be and I wonder if anybody has experienced anything like this with their truck.
Thanks
I am hearing that it might be the ignition module which cost approximately $1500 to fix. I am also hearing it might be the fuel pump, or the oil pump. I am completely frustrated and lost. I have been stranted 6x in the last week and I am getting the run around from dealer shops.
Does anybody have an idea of what this might be and I wonder if anybody has experienced anything like this with their truck.
Thanks
Was it your Fuel Injector Control Module F.I.C.M.??
Was it your fuel pressure Sensor??
I need to know what you found out, as I am having the same problem. My email is shortkut@seidata.com
PLEASE LET ME KNOW. THANK YOU.
#7
Did you find that your High Pressure Oil Pump was out??
Was it your Fuel Injector Control Module F.I.C.M.??
Was it your fuel pressure Sensor??
I need to know what you found out, as I am having the same problem. My email is shortkut@seidata.com
PLEASE LET ME KNOW. THANK YOU.
Was it your Fuel Injector Control Module F.I.C.M.??
Was it your fuel pressure Sensor??
I need to know what you found out, as I am having the same problem. My email is shortkut@seidata.com
PLEASE LET ME KNOW. THANK YOU.
the post you are hijacking is from 2011
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#8
Hmm, I'm sure a bunch of us would like to hear how you determined it was a bad HPOP, as would any future readers of this thread, like ShortKut. I'm not the expert here, but it sounds odd that a bad HPOP would let it start at all. Instead, you described classic "hot no-start" symptoms that would point to a high pressure oil leak, a small one that closes when the oil is cold and thick to allow it to start, but leaks after the oil thins out with heat. That yours restarts after cooling down for only 30 minutes suggests it's a small leak now, but soon, it won't start at all.
And that will often not produce a code, but you can see the issue with a scan tool to monitor live data, as Bizmic suggested. You'll see your IPR% at 85% while cranking when that oil is hot.
And, that is a much more common problem than a bad HPOP. The o-rings on the standpipes/dummy plugs or the STC fitting are most often the culprit. And o-rings are a lot cheaper than an HPOP and much easier to replace.
To ShortKut, as Mark suggested, go read the No-start post in the Tech folder, and get a scantool that monitors live data. Don't rely on this diagnosis, even if it's correct. It's unlikely that you have that issue.
And that will often not produce a code, but you can see the issue with a scan tool to monitor live data, as Bizmic suggested. You'll see your IPR% at 85% while cranking when that oil is hot.
And, that is a much more common problem than a bad HPOP. The o-rings on the standpipes/dummy plugs or the STC fitting are most often the culprit. And o-rings are a lot cheaper than an HPOP and much easier to replace.
To ShortKut, as Mark suggested, go read the No-start post in the Tech folder, and get a scantool that monitors live data. Don't rely on this diagnosis, even if it's correct. It's unlikely that you have that issue.
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