where to get a rain gutter?
#1
#2
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Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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#4
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
Posts: 61,003
Received 3,118 Likes
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#5
#6
OP is referring to the cowl seal to hood seal. There's no reason to improvise with random household things that likely won't retain shape and seal over the years when the proper part is available for cheap.
80-86: Cowl Lacing | Dennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts
87-91: Cowl Lacing | Dennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts
I believe I've seen 92-97 specific seals, maybe LMC or one of the others. I doubt there's much difference in the seal from 80-97
80-86: Cowl Lacing | Dennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts
87-91: Cowl Lacing | Dennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts
I believe I've seen 92-97 specific seals, maybe LMC or one of the others. I doubt there's much difference in the seal from 80-97
#7
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#8
Garage door seals are installed flexy bit down. Installing as a cowl seal is installing it upside down. I haven't seen any that is particularly rigid or I would be confident it would hold shape as a proper cowl seal does. The proper part is readily available and cheap, I see no reason to use questionable parts particularly in a N/A or carb application where there is possibility for water ingestion down the intake.
I'm not aware of any brittle plastic on the OEM cowl seals. I believe mine is a metal strip with a fairly rigid rubber lip ending in a softer tip to seal against the hood. I'm not convinced a garage door seal is a better part for this application, but go ahead and make your case.
I'm not aware of any brittle plastic on the OEM cowl seals. I believe mine is a metal strip with a fairly rigid rubber lip ending in a softer tip to seal against the hood. I'm not convinced a garage door seal is a better part for this application, but go ahead and make your case.
#9
I bought one for my '88, and while it definitely worked, there are a couple of spots where strain is showing already(did it maby a year ago?) due to the hood not being perfectly straight and pushing further down in one spot than it probably should.
It's the flexible bit *above* the "strip" that is where it breaks, not the strip itself. And that's all plastic/rubber.
It's the flexible bit *above* the "strip" that is where it breaks, not the strip itself. And that's all plastic/rubber.
#11
Well, The one on my truck is all rigid, nothing soft.
but then, when I bought it, it had only about 3500 Miles (11 years ago) and it came with the factory mounted tires (truck is from 1989) They were pretty rigid as well, one after the other exploded on me (tread was still like new).
Now I bought 6 new tires, and start slowly to run the truck a bit more, and put her in shape, she has only 8000 Miles now, all that because I have had huge problems to register her, and in a little while I can register her as a antique truck, which makes things much more simpel.
but then, when I bought it, it had only about 3500 Miles (11 years ago) and it came with the factory mounted tires (truck is from 1989) They were pretty rigid as well, one after the other exploded on me (tread was still like new).
Now I bought 6 new tires, and start slowly to run the truck a bit more, and put her in shape, she has only 8000 Miles now, all that because I have had huge problems to register her, and in a little while I can register her as a antique truck, which makes things much more simpel.
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fordboy300
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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