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are the diesel fuel gauges as bad as the gassers?
Full to 3/4 = 7gallons
3/4 to 1/2 = 10 gallons
1/2 to 1/4 = 11 gallons
1/4 to 1/8 = 6 gallons
1/8 to Empty = last 10 gallons
i usually refill at 1/8 tank and every time it is 33-34gal leaving 10 in the tank. Granted I never have nor want to run a vehicle empty, i just wish it was more accurate,
good to know I'm not the only one with this problem... Low fuel light comes on and I've still got about 8 gallons left in the tank.
After my low fuel light comes on I know I've got a good 50 miles or more left. This last camping trip my low fuel light came on while pulling the train and I still went a good 40 miles or more before getting fuel.
The low fuel light came on in our work truck just as I was pulling it into the shop to do a bunch of work on it. I dropped the tank to do the in tank mods and there was a good 5+ gallons in the tank yet, this is a regular truck not an X.
I am too much of a chicken to let my tank get that low, I refuel at 1/4 left. The stupid pump still cuts off at $75 and I have to run my card a 2nd time.
Before my Hutch/Harpoon mod, I made it less than 10 miles after the fuel light came on before it started running rough (with pickup foot laying in the bottom of the tank). I haven’t pushed it since Hutch and the new pickup foot, but can get 43 or so gallons in after running the same 10 miles after fuel light. I’m guessing I get more fuel in the tank with the Harpoon mod?
It was time to change out the front axle u joints and wheel bearings. I decided to go with the Dynatrac kit. The front right bearing was crunchy and the u joints were dry despite me greasing them at my last oil change.
I don't like to either, just so I don't have to deal with hanging the pump back up at $100 when the pump cuts me off, just to put another $5-10 into the tank. Also Kroger's fuel rewards cuts off at 35 gal of discounted fuel...
It was time to change out the front axle u joints and wheel bearings. I decided to go with the Dynatrac kit. The front right bearing was crunchy and the u joints were dry despite me greasing them at my last oil change.
Major investment with the spin free kit. Tell us how it works out.
Removed the spider today in preparation for removing the HPOP to seal it. I want to do the AIH delete as well as clean up the valley. *THINKING* about doing a RiffRaff billet wheel, but I really don't want to remove the turbo... more work than I want to get into. Thoughts on swapping a wheel without removing the turbo? I've heard a bunch of cons to it, and also come across a lot of problem-free installs.
Whether or not I do a new wheel, I'm confident the Ex will perform much better when I'm done...
You learn something new about the 7.3 everyday Learnt/reminded of an important lesson when not having done the hutch mod. This has been a crazy week at work and didn't stop to fill up when the EX was down to 1/4 tank like I always do. But, I was really glad that the EX died on the street that I live on. Only have a 5 gal can. Since I was standing on an incline on the street, I had to make a couple of trips with the wife's car to get the fuel level up for the pickup to get a steady amount. After dropping ~15 gallons in there, primed the fuel pump a few times, before it started up and did the classic diesel romp. After letting it sit for a few min romping on the street, took it to the gas station and filled up to the brim and then drove it for ~25 miles. The first few miles, it ran crappy, continued a little more of the romp, lacked boost, gas pedal felt very irresponsive etc. Once all the air was out of the fuel lines, it was then running just as nice as before.
FF to this morning. Driving to an event with friends. Coasting on the interstate, and the engine completely cuts off. I just saw my RPM needle completely reset to 0. Carefully pulled over to the shoulder. First this that came to mind was to check fuel pressure at the bowl like Mike had taught me couple nights ago. Nothing came out gushing. It did puke out a little bit of fuel. So, I new something is wrong with the fuel delivery. Then I noticed that my PATS has also possibly tripped. When I turn the key to ON, the THEFT light blinks continuously for 45 sec, then once and then 6 times. This pattern of 1 & 6 (or is it 6 & 1) repeats a few times and then it goes off. End result of all this, the starter engages fine, but the engine won't turn over. I tried the PATS reset procedure a few times, but that didn't work. Finally, called AAA and had it towed home 60 miles.
Prakash, you need to clear the entire fuel system back to the tank, and then do the hutch mod before driving it again. Pieces of that pickup foot are all over in your tank, and likely lodged in your fuel line and pump.
What rust doc are you taking her to? I want to fully treat the rust on mine and need to find a good place to re mediate and rust proof. Any idea about how much $$$?
I’m taking her to a local body shop (Ultimate Restoration, LLC) that does a lot of impressive fabrication work on muscle cars, hot rods and the like. They will cut out and replace metal (hand fabbed) as necessary and the wirebrush and acid treat the underbody and finish up with primer and bed liner (I think). Quote will not be ready until Sep 10.
So the previous owner of my truck had replaced the dirty side of the intake with a K&N Filter, duct tape, the stock clamp, and a serious misunderstanding of modern vehicle air filtration. I got the remainder of the stock intake off eBay, and got a stock filter, and MAF cleaner to get me back to decent filtration. In the process of doing so my stepstool slipped, my arm hit the upper radiator hose, and the radiator inlet snapped off. So what should have been an easy 15 minute job turned into a several hour ordeal of finding a store with a radiator in stock, replacing it, and flushing the coolant. Also replaced the thermostat while I was in there.
Been trying to install a brake controller for the past couple weekends, but stuff like this keeps coming up.
Took off, cleaned and greased both 4x4 front hubs. Replaced one door actuator (rear passenger, 2 more to go (drivers door and rear hatch.) Replaced air filter.
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Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
Learnt/reminded of an important lesson when not having done the hutch mod. This has been a crazy week at work and didn't stop to fill up when the EX was down to 1/4 tank like I always do. But, I was really glad that the EX died on the street that I live on. Only have a 5 gal can. Since I was standing on an incline on the street, I had to make a couple of trips with the wife's car to get the fuel level up for the pickup to get a steady amount. After dropping ~15 gallons in there, primed the fuel pump a few times, before it started up and did the classic diesel romp. After letting it sit for a few min romping on the street, took it to the gas station and filled up to the brim and then drove it for ~25 miles. The first few miles, it ran crappy, continued a little more of the romp, lacked boost, gas pedal felt very irresponsive etc. Once all the air was out of the fuel lines, it was then running just as nice as before.
