I read that and my mind couldn't help but picture your Ex pulling your trailer doing 200 miles around https://www.charlottemotorspeedway.com/

Stewart

 

LOL! I have walked that track once including the banked turns, I had ankle problems for 3 years after.

 

Installed new +battery cables and passenger side ground cable. Finally got the last driver's side valve cover bolt snugged down (you all know which one I mean). High-flow banjo bolts done, and no fuel in my armpit - I had the passenger's inner fender off, so I was able to access through there. Bellowed up-pipes installed and snugged down at the collector, still loose at the manifold. Maybe time left in the day to get the turbo pedestal installed and the waste gate set up on the turbo, possibly finish up the wiring harness re-do...

Ordered an idler pulley, headlights, front turn signals, taillights, and the actuator for the inop rear air floor/roof door.

 

Fan clutch had crossed my mind. I know how to check the radiator and for head gasket leaks and was going to do that first when I have time this week but I'm not sure how to check the fan for proper operation?

 

 

Hi guys, I'm in the middle of cleaning the engine bay but I had a quick question. There is some dirt under the engine bay fuse panel cover on some of the fuses and I was wondering if its safe to spray wd40 specialist electrical contact cleaner on those to clean it while the battery is still connected. It says its safe for all plastics and leaves no residue but I was concerned about the battery still being connected.
Thanks guys!

 

Thanks for the help. I'll do that.

Now that you mention vent temps warmer, it is actually the opposite. My vent temps seem colder and the air temperature is low temperature at max heat setting when it is overheating. This is also a reason I'm leaning towards partially blocked radiator. But I will check everything.

 

I didn't see an answer above, but does anyone know what wheels these are? Me X came with four of them an I am trying to track down a fifth for my spare.

 

Describe exactly what is happening when its "overheating", boiling over or reading high on the dash gauge or OBDII reader?

 

Temp gauge slowly climbs in to red. Only hit red a few times as I usually pulled over or slowed way down to a snail's pace with flashers on. When I pulled over I scanned the engine with an infrared thermometer gun. Hottest temp I saw was 230F. The radiator was reading much cooler. Often 185 at top and 160 or 130 at bottom while gauge was in red. Top radiator hose would read less than thermostat housing. I verified the thermostat opened at idle upon installation with the thermometer. Once it warmed up the coolant flowed past the thermostat (verified with infrared gun.)

According to recent records and receipts from PO water pump and many hoses were replaced due to an overheating issue. Read something about hoses being replaced due to gunk. Also leads me to think radiator blockage. I was planning on starting my own thread once I run some more diagnostics.

 

Watched a Diesel Brothers on Hulu last night where they cut up a perfectly good, clean Excursion. The employee that "owned" it voluntarily sold it for $2500 for the project, it was his family car. You know he didn't own it because he sold it way too cheap and if he did he was just plain dumb.
I can't stand perfectly good vehicles being chopped like this!

https://www.discovery.com/tv-shows/d...flippin-diesel

 

I'd bet money this will fix that misfire issue
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12209418

and how old are your rubber lines? I had to replace all of mine. the rear were rusted internally and collapsing. that would lock pressure on the caliper and caused a dragging brake. About $30 later and the issue was fixed.

 

I'd also like to know. Guy I got them from told me they are dick Cepek but if they are, they must be pretty old and they don't look like they've been around the block that many times. Nothing on the Cepek site shows these wheels.

 

Finished taping up the wiring harness. Installed the turbo and connected the downpipe. Cleaned some ancillary engine parts (brackets and such).

Seems I need seven hands to install the collector to the back of the turbo, any magic to getting the collector to line up after installing bellowed up-pipes?

 

Leave bolts at collector AND down on the exhaust manifolds a few threads loose. That will give you the movement you need.