Hi all,

I'm getting ready to re-install the trans onto my 226 flathead. I've got all the clutch parts and bearings from Van Pelt's, as well as the alignment tool. I've got torque specs from the repair manual. However, neither the manual or the threads I've searched here indicate how I should adjust the pressure plate (if at all...) during assembly. The PP I have is a new 3-finger non adjustable; I've seen some warnings about this style, but it is the only one that seems to be available from reputable vendors like Van Pelt's or Ft Wayne Clutch.

So could someone point me to a good thread on this topic, or set me straight on the adjustments I'll need to make during the installation? Also looking for specs on finger height...

Thanks!

 

The 10" clutches on V8 and 6 were the same. Is yours an 11"? If you are using the LD 3-sp you need to use the 10", at least the disc. I bought an adjustable finger 10" from Ft Wayne a little over a year ago, it was a reman unit.

The types with non-adjustable fingers can be adjusted, but it is a lot more trouble. Mark (49fordv8F4) adjusted his: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19510022
If it's a new PP, I don't think I'd mess with it.

 

The more likely need will be to adjust the clutch pedal mechanism. I'm with Ross, don't tweak the fingers at this point.

 

Ok, thanks for the advice! I think I was actually a bit confused about what needed to be adjusted. The new PP's I have has no way to adjust the fingers and the point of contact with the throwout bearing - no bolts. I was mistaken in thinking the other bolts, those that hold the finger mechanism to the PP, were in need of adjustment. So in the end, there is really no adjustment I can make with the new PP... And I checked the manual for the clutch pedal adjustment, and that looks straightforward.

Ross, concerning the 11" clutch/3spd LD trans, I looked up that link you sent, and another crosslinked thread from there.

In this one, it gets kind of confusing, but it seems like the OP had a mixed set of clutch parts, and eventually got the 10" clutch to work with the 11" pressure plate:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...s-still-7.html

I also became aware of the possible problems with the 11" clutch w/ 3-speed LD trans about a month ago from this thread, but JB said that the problem was actually a bent clutch fork:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...thread-13.html

I did call Mac Van Pelt, and he assured me that the 11" clutch and 3-spd LD trans would work, so I'm going to at least try the combo. If I run into trouble, I'll probably go with a 10" clutch so I don't have to get the flywheel drilled out.

 

There is a lot of back-and-forth in that first thread, bottom line is that the 11" clutch disc has a longer hub that will not clear the nose of the LD 3-sp. If you want to keep the 11" PP, just use a 10" disc with it.
See here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11732755

Did you mean, "I'll probably go with a 10" clutch disc ..."?

 

Thanks for the clarification! And yes, I did mean 11" PP, 10" disc!

 

Look here for the resolution of this issue:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19608237

 

Thanks for the link. Do you by chance know who makes the clutch parts Van Pelts sells? I have a call into them and waiting for a call back but I just thought I'd as you.

 

Mostly chinesium, same stuff as almost everyone else. But he stands behind his stuff. Even Ft Wayne sells Korean PP's, unless you give them your old OEM clutch to rebuild.

 

I got a little mixed up between my original post and the link offered to this older post.

I'll reply in my post, hopefully it won't be too confusing for future readers.

Interesting add to this post though, I was talking to my retired machinist friend yesterday about a new clutch and he offered to measure any new clutch I would buy. He had a '56 Thunderbird that he did some work on. He installed a new clutch among a few other things. The car developed a nasty hope during gear shifts. He checked out things and adjusted different parts and nothing stopped it. He said he pulled the pressure plate out and checked the three fingers and found one slightly longer than the other two. He used a dial indicator to make sure they all extended into center equally and that solved his hopping problem. He figured the one longer finger engaged one side of the clutch sooner and cause the disc to go in on an angle. He told me he'd check my new clutch to make sure the fingers are equal.

 

Ross, who is the dealer in Ft. Wayne you're referring to?

 

Ft Wayne Clutch, https://fortwayneclutch.com/
They have been the Ford Barn's "go-to" for clutches, and I have one of them. Their reputation has slipped some, and I have had some issues with the one I have, not entirely sure it is their fault. They are the only ones I know of who will rebuild your OEM clutch if you send it to them.

 

Thanks Ross. Sounds like clutches, like most auto parts today, have all gone down in quality. Also, it doesn't seem like there is much difference in quality.

 

As others have said, the nonadjustible fingers don't need to be adjusted. The rebuilder would have adjusted them with shims as part of the rebuild, Springfield Brake in Springfield, Missouri rebuilt the disc and pressure plate in my truck. I took several PP and discs to them and they picked out the parts they thought would be the best to rebuild. They replaced the adjustible fingers with the nonadjustible ones and they work fine. They did tell me that they could have reused the adjustible fingers if I wanted provided that they were able to find three good ones.