I have a 1200watt inverter I plan to mount somewhere in truck and have outlets scattered around where I think I may need them (each row of seats and a couple in the cargo area?) I also considered just gutting one of the cheeep 100watt cig lighter inverters and putting the 'guts' behind F650 dash...

I have a double-din DVD/Nav system in the F350 and will do the same for the X eventually. My next system will have USB input(s), so thats why originally wanted USB's on dash - but it seems like all these new phones have USB-based chargers and rather than use an 'adapter' to charge phone, I figured just put a USB in the dash somewhere...

 

Loaded the Bronco on the car trailer being towed by the EX. Going for a trail ride in Richloam, Florida. Should be a good time, going to be HOT but fun....

 

I replaced the rear hatch lock actuator....with thanks to Servinghim!

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10582721

 

synthetic oil in, factory tech valve body in, synthetic trans fluid and new filter,

home made napa filter kit, diamond eye no muffler 4" turbo back exhaust

new rear shocks, weather tech window deflectors

 

given mine a break for the last few days, since my grandpa is out of town and left his f-150 with a full tank of gas(not full anymore!) and tossed the keys to me...gotta love free gas!

 

Installed V-codes, F350 blocks, and adjustable track arm. Also greased my steering.

 

Maybe this Fall at Brownies we can do mine too!

V/B's that is!

 

I put new headlights in mine today. Well I didnt but I watched my uncle ron do it. I had the wrong headlights in there (no I didnt put them in). Now I will be able to see at night!!!

 

Not that bad of a job at all. Mine took a little longer because I had to retrofit my airbags to the new blocks. I'll give ya a hand if I make it up. Is there a date yet?

 

No date yet, it was just talk in the thread after Spring fling was over.

 

Replaced the dead rear passenger window switch with one that works.

 

I did the "tinfoil fix" to the rear hatch actuator today. Did it from memory so I ended up drilling all of the rivets out (metal and plastic). I found a single layer of foil kept tearing, so I put a good three or four layers on the resistor plate.

I ended up using some tiny bolts and nuts on the middle three plastic rivets to put the unit it back together, and to help support the side with the two metal rivets, I just used a heavier zip tie.

Testing the lock/unlock while watching shows no signs of the actuator case flexing or trying to come apart, so I think it should be just fine with the zip tie/bolts holding it together.

Kudo's to whoever discovered that little fix! Took about 20 minutes to do.

 

I guess that is better then replacing it with another one that doesn't work.

 

Or one that only works on Tuesday and Thursday like the side vent windows.

 

New PCV valve, new air filter, and a good washing and drying