You need to slow down and let me catch up on my rebuild. I'll just follow your post as I am in the same boat. Its getting close to Hog season and the 1st kick off.

 

Adam has you covered, but for the record, I've gotten 22+ MPG with my Hybrids. Best on stock was about 19.5. Just a point of reference...

 

Yea, but Joe, you have a 2wd........ truck.....

There, I said it, but I can't believe I called something with only 2wd a truck.. aahh!!!

 

If it was that poorly taken care of then you'll want to take a good look at the radiator. If they did not take care of the PH levels then you may need a good cleaning or even a re-core. Also, I would suggest replacing the water pump, new thermostat and make sure you get the block stripped and bathed to clean out any residual crud from the oil and water ports. Have your crank inspected, check your heads for warpage and so on. Assume nothing and check everything. You do that and you will have a dependale motor when your done. Then just do good PM! Best of luck.

 

have you considered an OEM reman motor from partsguyed, what are they going for these days ED? less that 5K? short block lists on his site for $3400 or so....link to eds site and short block

 

i cant take credit for this.. but it shows its more then just a little mod to make room for more fuel and less oil to make hybrid injectors...

Hybrid injectors are taking the 7.1mm plunger and barrel out of a BD code I530E injector and installing it into an A code injector with a 16mm intensifier piston. As you could imagine the down fall is that the injection ratio is dropped to approximatly 5:1 further decreasing injection pressure. However with the smaller intensifier piston it requires no more oil than an equivilant A code yet it flows the same amount of fuel as a B code. The result is much more fuel capacity without the need for more high pressure oil volume.

not to step on any toes (its about cost here and $3000 is hard to come by these day's..i feed my kid's first) but i have found a long block with all name brand performance parts blue printed,baked rod's,crank and cam, fitted with MAHLE PISTONS and ring's. all balanced, polished heads with 910 springs and mounted with APR stud's for 3800 to my door..$3100 without studs and spring..(it will come with stock springs and head bolts.)..that includes shipping core back..it comes with a 3 year 75,000 mile warranty...

my stix may be for sale with the moded pump and maybe the DP tuner here soon..im going with a set of 250's ....

 

Thanks for all the great ideas guys!

I am going to take the block, heads, crank, cam, all to the machine shop that we use, Ive got a lot of faith in him and a big plus is he is a one man small town machine shop, Ive seen him do some big engines for lus less than $600, that includes all that I mentioned above plus rod bushings. Everything will be dipped and come back spotless.

Oh yeah thats a question for everybody on this, do the rod bushings (wrist pin bushings) have to be machined on these?

I have looked at reman engines.... I have never been able to bring myself to do that, I know I know, it might make more sense, but I like messing with this stuff..... Plus I can use as an excuse, Ive seen a lot of problems out of reman engines, especially in my line of work, never in a 7.3 but anyway, you get the point.

Hopefully I get it out and at least get the heads pulled off today.

What do I have to do on here to be able to post pics?

 

Is there another engine like that for that price? I could go sell some of my wife's cows and pay for that, definitely worth that money!

PM sent.

 

Engine out..... didnt have time to tear down yet. Maybe tomorrow.

 

In my case, I *gained* pressure because it was falling to about 1800ish at WOT (1800 x 7 = 12,600psi). Now, my HPOP is holding 3000ish psi (3000 x 5 = 15,000 psi).

 

Dont forget pics bro.

 

Ok, update and some more questions. Got the engine stripped down and got the block, heads, and all to the machine shop yesterday. #5 had broken rings, cracked piston, scored cylinder, all the good stuff. Should be all buildable acording to the machineist, of course it will have to be bored.

I need to rebuild the turbo on here, which is where my questions come in. I found several sets of instructions on building them so I got that covered. What I dont see on here is anybody talking about having it balanced. Im going to have to have a new compressor wheel as the old one is shot, it looks like something just went through it, the shaft does not have a lot of slack in it or anything, but I have some bent/broken fins.

What are the thoughts on balancing a rebuilt turbo?

I already have the better wheel on the early '99 right? I looked at the one on XDP that was mentioned in another thread here today, good price, but it says its for 99.5 up. Will that one fit my turbo?

 

the early 99 wheel is the WW or Banks wheel. Some say balance, some say no need. The way I see it is you have the time to ship it off to get it done. Why not buy that cheap insurance or peace of mind?

 

if your rebuilding it i say balance it...if your just swapping wheels..just do it..the wheel are already balanced and the turbo should already be balanced...not perfect..but close enough..

 

Jay,

Keep us updated on your progress and "Thanks" for bringing her back to life. It will be worth it.

My '02 just turned over 207,000 mi. and I wouldn't hesitate to drive it anywhere. With a few simple mods it pulls like a freight train and uses no oil. International NAILED it on the T444e and these are great trucks. It makes me sad to see one that's been neglected.

Sorry I personally can't help you with your rebuild, but you definitely came to the right place for good advice.