Guys - I'm pulling my hair out here.

I'll try to cover all the bases. Bought the truck VERY used in Lakeland Florida with 189k, Crew cab lariat long box 4x4 SRW aren't easy to find under $10k- knew it had a miss - seemed like an injector - I drove it home to the Detroit area, smoked on cold start the whole way...

After trying the injector rebuild myself - I decided to have Rosewood do the injector rebuild for me since they required some machine work. All new nozzles installed at rosewood as well.
I rebuilt the turbo with the ebay kit from Utah - had it balanced too.

After all this - still had a miss on #8. Found it was low compression.

Not much spare time with a 7 month old son - so - I decided to have a friends shop pull the head - hoping it would be repairable with work on the head. Not so lucky. Bad piston - looked like pieces of ring smashed into the top of the piston.

Had the shop pull the engine, pulled it apart myself, and took it to Superior turbo and injection in Detroit for the machine work - went .030 over, complete valve job, crank inspected, block inspected - everything came back nice. I put it together myself using the motorcraft rebuild kit from powerstrokeshop.com.

Took it back to the shop for the install.

Filled engine, hpop, head oil rails with oil... crank crank crank.... no start.

This went on for a few days of trying to start it here and there while working on other customer cars.... no start, after several tries - confirmed HPOP was full, oil was under valve covers, fuel filter canister was full.


unplug ICP (which looks new) KPA on scan tool reads way high - no start.
unplug IPR - no change on scan tool - no start.

The IPR % is not rising quickly during cranking, it stays at 0 for several seconds then rises slowly into the 20's before I quit cranking for fear of overheating starter/batteries/cables.

KPA on scan tool (snap-on) doesn't get above the 300's.... needs 500 to start right?

Bolt holding gear to HPOP is tight.
Fuel filter housing is full
HPOP is staying full
Have lube oil pressure on factory oil pressure gauge after a few seconds of cranking

will start on fumes from a gas soaked rag....

no smoke during cranking tells me I'm not getting fuel from the injectors.
Buzz test sounds normal.

IPR?

 

You need 500 psi to start. 300 kpa is around 43 psi. If you're IPR duty % won't go above 20, then it's either not getting a command to close off or it's stuck open. Unplugging the ICP probably gave you a reading at or above 5,000 kpa, which would be normal. Life would be easier if you would monitor ICP in psi so we don't have to google the conversion chart.

 

I hear you - I can't figure out if the snap - on scanner will convert to PSI - KPA is actually in the title of the "channel".
The highest KPA we've seen during cranking is in the 360 range - which is way low.

I've read elsewhere that unplugging the ICP should get it to start if the ICP is bad.... if the IPR is bad - it still won't start with the ICP unplugged - do you agree with that logic?

I don't understand why the IPR would go bad just replacing o-rings and putting it back in, but stranger things have happened.

We've also checked the fuses in the under hood box and didn't find any blown, the fuel pump is working on the fuel rail as well....

Am I smart to just purchase an IPR based on the scan - tool readings?

 

imo....after spending the money on a rebuild i wouldn't let a $150 ipr stand in my way. i hate throwing part at it but...it's about the only thing you have left to replace

 

99% of the time I would agree with this, so let's move on.

So you're using the original IPR from the bad engine in this truck? Why did you remove it from the HPOP? Did you take it apart and clean it, or just replace the o-rings?

Just for grins I'd pull the IPR again, wipe some oil on it and cuss at it a bit, then stick it back in to see if you have any better luck or different readings. Buying a new IPR for a new motor isn't that bad an idea, but try pulling and re-installing yours just to see if you get lucky.

 

Yes - I was attempting to re-use the IPR that was in the truck when I bought it - it ran, so I had no reason to suspect the IPR was bad.

Yes - during the rebuild - I removed it from the HPOP resevoir - cleaned it, replaced the o-rings, and put it back together.

I've just found an IPR at the local napa warehouse - for $178 I can have it today - instead of waiting for one off ebay for $133... at this point I'm tired of waiting - I will pick it up on my way home today and hopefully that will be the end of this saga.

I will keep you posted.

Thanks for the quick replies guys - anyone remember the good old days of dieselstop when you could post up a question and have 5 replies in under an hour? I miss that old site - sure aint the way it used to be - this place seems great!

Thanks again.

 

If your new IPR works, take they old one apart and see if that little needle is in there the correct way, Yup i did it wrong ones.
Ultemately I got a new one because my truck is really sensative for that thing.

Good luck man.

 

You may have to show me a write up on how to pull the IPR apart that far, I simply slid off the solenoid, cleaned everything, and replaced the o-rings.

To clarify - we pulled the IPR - cleaned it - and put it back in last night - no change. There was some crud in the connector, and a little bit of fuzz (lint from the rags during rebuild process I suspect) on the IPR - so we thought just maybe it would work after cleaning - no change.
The solenoid does read about 10 ohms of resistance with a VOM - so it's not "open" but - based on the scanner reading during cranking... it's not working right.

Chuck is going to check out the wiring to the IPR today to make sure there's not a short / chafing / other damage. Some of the wiring has been soaked in diesel...

I will pick up the new IPR from napa tonight and we'll put it in and cross our fingers.... thanks for taking the time to reply guys - hopefully I'll have good news this evening!

 

If you did't take it apart that far than the needle in backworth is not it, however, it can be really dirty and sticky insite.
I think Guzzle has a writeup on his home page, or someone will come up with a link, I just can't remember.
You will get-r don.

 

Where are you at in SE Mi?

If you are close enough, we can pull mine off and have you try it..

 

If I remember right there is another plug that is exactly the same as the plug for the IPR check and see if you crossed them by accident .

 

By any chance did you replace the non serviceable plug on the HPOP? If so you may have lost the little ball that is down onder the IPR.

 

Well - we replaced the IPR tonight with a new one from Napa.
It did change the readings on the IPR % on the snap - on scan tool, it now goes up to a max of 65 during cranking, it only went up to 28 or so before.

However - the injection pressure isn't reacting as it should - it STILL WONT RUN on it's own. It will run on an atomized spray of gasoline and diesel mix.... for over a minute at a time, no funny noises, no pops, no back fires, no drama - just a weak idle chugging along. I thought for sure that it would run long enough to get the air out of the system and start. But it never did.

Basically - I'm not getting enough pressure in the oil rails in the heads to open the injectors.

Brandon
- good point - I did try to replace all o-rings on the HPOP while it was out in an attempt to repair any leaks. I do recall a check ball coming out and putting it back in where it came from.... but now you have me thinking!
Is there a write up that would show me the proper position for that check ball?

Pat
- I live in Belleville - the guys at Accurate transmission and repair have pulled the engine out and put it back in - as well as getting me a great deal on a HD towing converter - they have been excellent!

Possible causes for no pressure from the HPOP to the heads?

Is it possible to swap a gasket around in the HPOP reservoir to somehow block off the intake to the HPOP? I was very thorough and careful building this thing - and tried to match up all the old gaskets with new ones, etc - I've been through the whole - upside down head gaskets on a small block ford experience - but this is my first powerstroke rebuild.

The heads were pressure checked at the machine shop - maybe there are plugs down inside the passages that the HPOP oil line fittings screw into?

Is there a way to screw up the HPOP line oil fittings so they won't open when clipped into the fittings on the heads?

 

Never messed with it but if you remove the non serviceable plug you need to have the pump in a certain position. Here is the write up on Bob's site: http://www.dieselorings.com/docs/service_plug.pdf

Others should be able to give you more info.

 

THANKS!

That write up is fabulous - and it's possible I didn't get that check ball back in the right place.... I will follow up after looking into that.