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I have some really good 3M backed velcro and can't for the life of me remember where I got it. Trick is to clean each surface really well before sticking it on. I also used two strips per ballast that cover its full length. I've looked in there with a flashlight and they're still in place. We'll see in a year or two if it fails but I don't think so. The Slim Ballast just doesn't weigh very much to pull on all that surface area.
That's true, took me 30 mins to get the grille and headlights off the first time because I couldn't see the release tabs at the bottom of the grill. If I did it again, 5 minutes tops, really. 10mm socket with extension (for the headlight housings) and a regular screwdriver.
I just can't see how the grill comes off. P. 93 of the manual describes the four bolts attaching the top of the grille - easy. Then "Remove the two grill to headlamp assembly push pins" Can't see these. Then pull top of grille forward to gain access to the lower grille spring clips - can't see these either.
Neither the two grille headlamp to grille push pins nor the lower grille spring clips are illustrated in the manual.
I just can't see how the grill comes off. P. 93 of the manual describes the four bolts attaching the top of the grille - easy. Then "Remove the two grill to headlamp assembly push pins" Can't see these. Then pull top of grille forward to gain access to the lower grille spring clips - can't see these either.
Neither the two grille headlamp to grille push pins nor the lower grille spring clips are illustrated in the manual.
Feeling kinda dense here.
LOL. No biggie. Looking at the grill with the hood open, find a rubber flap-like thing on the far right (driver's side) that wraps over the top of the grill and is held by a plastic push pin. Use some needle-nose pliers to get under it and wiggle it out. Never been a huge fan of push-pins but they are there. Remove the four bolts on the top of the grille and pull the top of the grill toward you. It is being held in by about 6 spring clips at the bottom. You'll need a long regular screwdriver and reach your arm down in between the grille and the radiator and push to release each one as you give a gentle pull forward on the grille. You'll figure it out. Like I said, 5 minutes the SECOND time you do it. Took me a bit longer on my first time as well. A flashlight helps.
Thanks - that's the info I needed. I saw that snap on the rubber flap, but the directions referred to push pin(s), so I assumed I was missing something.
Just placed my order today!
Carerful, choose the H13 with Hi/Low option to get the harness and relay for your high and low beams. Looks like $65 for the kit. Do not believe we have bulb failure detection so I did not order the error eliminator.
epic, how much better is this kit over the stock lights?? I bought a kit for my 06 dodge and its kinda sucked, on that kit I had to install resistors to keep the low beams for turning off after a while, I think they call this flicker, so I soldered in the resistors which I didn't like cutting into the harness and now my left side light will not work any more. I am selling the truck and don't wanna dink with fixing it.
I want a true plug in kit, I don't wanna splice anything.
It was completely plug and play. You have to get the Hi/Lo relay and the wiring harness. It's a tad daunting to layout all the components and figure out what plugs into what but you should always do that. One thing that is weird is that the whole assembly only uses one source from the truck. That means on one side the headlight plug will just hang free, not attached to anything. Donz't know if that makes sense.
I really like this kit. It's bright and has lasted in every vehicle I've installed them in. I even put them in my ATV's and Polaris RZR. I'm starting to wonder if the 55W ballasts are too bright. I get flashed by oncoming traffic a couple times a week. I might be compelled to swap the ballasts for 35 watts. Even those will be signicantly brighter/whiter than the factory lights.
using one side is exactly how my dodge kit installed it sounds like the same type of install you just don't have to solder in the resistors, which would be ideal. I just worry about it being as reliable as the factory setup, I drive in a lot of remote areas where not having headlights could almost be life and death.
epic, how much was your kit with everything needed??
Curious to know how these will work with my Sno Way Plow set up? They use an interrupter plug in at the rear of the headlamp. When the mating cable is disconnected your headlights turn off, then when plugged into the plow those lights turn on. That spare lamp may help. I may have to do some custom wiring or run the plow headlights from an upfitter switch.
using one side is exactly how my dodge kit installed it sounds like the same type of install you just don't have to solder in the resistors, which would be ideal. I just worry about it being as reliable as the factory setup, I drive in a lot of remote areas where not having headlights could almost be life and death.
epic, how much was your kit with everything needed??
About $85 shipped. That is seriously cheap and makes one worry that you get what you pay for. My experience has been flawless so far (knock on wood). Having said that, I do keep the factory bulbs in the center console. Just in case.
Looking to order one of these kits for the new truck.....I must say the lights are very poor in this truck. Here is the product I use (3M Dual Lock-S-7202) for many projects. It's is expensive but works very well. This is what Epic was using I think for mounting the ballasts.
Looking to order one of these kits for the new truck.....I must say the lights are very poor in this truck. Here is the product I use (3M Dual Lock-S-7202) for many projects. It's is expensive but works very well. This is what Epic was using I think for mounting the ballasts.
Rick
I guess!.. $92 for 15 ft is the best I can find online!..
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